Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir, Winter Ascent. The Lowes — Dave, George, Greg, and Jeff — made a semi-successful winter ascent of the Black Ice Couloir-West Face combination on the Grand Teton. In two days of poor weather from Beaver Creek they re...
Kangbachen Attempt. Italian Dante Porta had hoped to climb Kangbachen by its northwest face solo. With several friends, he established Base Camp at 17,225 feet on April 20. With another member, he made Camp I at 18,375 feet on April 25 and returne...
Alaska Wilderness, by Robert Marshall. Edited, with introductions by George Marshall, Forward by A. Starker Leoplold. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1970. 173 pages, 30 illustrations, 6 maps. Price $6.95.There are many people who develo...
Cascades: Mt. Adams. It is reported that Robert Craig and C. Molenaar, in September 1948, made a new route up the N. E. face of Mt. Adams.
Pumori East-Ridge Attempt. This two-man Japanese expedition came to an abrupt end on October 6 when the leader, Mikio Mitsuhata, was searching for the site of Camp II at 6000 meters. He was struck by a snow avalanche and fell 40 meters, fracturing...
Cerro Dedo, Patagonia. Cerro Dedo is in the region of Lago La Plata, north of the Northern Continental Icecap, and suffers from less bad weather than regions further south. The winds are usually high. Cerro Dedo (6625 feet; 40°50' S, 72°50' W) was...
Yerupaja Sur, Furieux Mais Romantiques. The participants on our expedition were Benoît Mont- fort, François Nadal, Julien Laurent, and I. Intending to open a route on the west face of Siula Chico, we left on foot from Llamac, arriving at base camp...
Peak 6553m, Attempt, and Peak 6222m, Ascent. Peak 6553m (a.k.a. Dibiboikri Nala) is an unclimbed peak on the Dibiboikri Glacier. A three-member British expedition led by Anthony Ewan Mecleran attempted it from September-October. However, only the ...
Bandar Punch. On 20 June 1950 the first ascent of Bandar Punch (20,720 ft.) was made by a party including a school principal, a major general, a teacher and a sergeant-instructor. Seven or eight attempts to climb the peak, which can be seen from M...
Siulá Chico, west face. In May Spanish climbers Oriol Baró and Jordi Corominas made the first ascent of Siulá Chico’s (6,265m) sustained, difficult west face (900m, ED+ VI AI5+ A2). The pair carried a portaledge and haul bag, placed no bolts, and ...
Rakaposhi, Attempt on North Ridge. It was obvious that an ascent to the north ridge from Minapin or Pisan would be too dangerous for a porter column but that a steep glacial valley led up from Jul Ghulmat directly to our north ridge. On September ...
Monte Darwin, 1989. Our expedition had as members Takamori Kobayashi, Hiroaki Kino, Yoshiharu Sekino, Taijiro Maeda, Chilean Eduardo García and me as leader. We were a filming crew from TV-ASAHI of Tokyo. For the first of three months, we traveled...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 31, 1987, Peter Froelicher (24) and Alicia Sams (23) attempted a one-day ascent of Teewinot via the East Face route. At 1345, both were climbing unroped at an elevation of 3500...
Broad Peak. On August 8, I was able to climb my fifth 8000er. I was accompanied by Mischa Saleki and Dr. Reinmar Joswig, a German living in Colombia, who had been a member of a big French expedition but joined us. Saleki had to turn back from the ...
Don Bosco, South Face Ascent and Ski Descent, 1991. Italian Tone Valeruz is well known for his extreme ski descents. On January 14, 1991, he made a new route solo on the south face of Don Bosco (2515 meters, 8251 feet), taking only three hours to ...
Everest Tragedy, North-Col Route. A Chilean expedition was composed of Claudio Lucero, leader, Rodrigo Jordan, Andrés Marambio, Pedro Bralic, Marcelo Gifferos, Fernando and Cristián Garcia-Huidobro, Pablo Straub and Victor Hugo Trujillo. They were...
NORMAN CLYDE 1885-1972Norman Clyde died in Big Pine, California in December 1972 at the age of 87. He had lived as every alpinist wants to live, but as none of them dare to do, and so he had a unique life. When he died, I felt that an endangered s...
Mt. Kenya, Diamond Couloir, ascent. The Diamond Couloir is an African classic, an elegant ice couloir on the south face of 5,199m Mt. Kenya that was first climbed in October 1973 by Thumbi Mathenge and Peter Snyder. At that time the steep headwall...
Attempt on the East Buttress of Mount McKinley. A four-man party (Walter Gonnason, Otto Trott, Paul Gerstmann, Bruce Gilbert) attempted the ascent of the east buttress of Mount McKinley during late July, 1956. Don Sheldon of Talkeetna landed them ...
Mustagh Ata. A commercial Franco-Italian expedition led by Alberto Re and Claude Jaccoux put 17 of its 20 members on the summit and had them ski down. L. Boggi Marzet, M.T. Gaiotto and M. Solari Pastine set a new altitude record for Italian women....