REYNOLD E. ISTO 1914-1965Reynold E. "Pete” Isto died after a fall on South Maroon Peak near Aspen, Colorado on August 23, 1965.A graduate of the South Dakota School of Mines with a degree in Engineering, he was Chief of Plans and Production for th...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The highlight in a busy year was the Club’s outing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, 5-17 August 1951. With 62 members and guests, this was the largest outing in the Club’s history. Base camp was established i...
Lembert Dome, Lunar Leap. This short climb, first done by Russ McLean, Mike Cohen and me in July, 1969, lies just left of the Water Cracks. We climbed directly up to a ledge between the first and second of three arches, traversed left beneath the ...
Drury Falls. Drury Falls is one of the more spectacular ice climbs in the central Cascades. Located three miles west of Castle Rock in Tum-water Canyon, this single waterfall produces 900 feet of steep ice climbing. Early in March 1976 on the firs...
Artesonraju, South Face. Maurice Barrard soloed the south face of Artesonraju, not a first ascent, on August 6, 1977. On June 9, 1978 Patrick Vallençant soloed the face and then descended it on skis.
Minapin or Diran. An Austrian party from Salzburg in May unsuccessfully attempted Minapin or Diran (23,861 feet), being driven back by bad weather, deep snow and avalanche danger. The climbers were Walter Fritsch, Heinz Eggert and Herbert Edtbaker.
Dhaulagiri, South Face Attempt. A four-man international team, consisting of Italian Reinhold Messner, Austrian Peter Habeler, German Otto Wiedemann and me from the United States, attempted the unclimbed south face of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet). T...
El Capitán, Southwest Face. A completely new route was made on the 3400-foot face of El Capitán by Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. Three separate pushes were required to finish the climb: September 12-13 (two full days), September 15–16 ...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The club grew in 1993 to over 9000 members divided among 20 individual groups in the state and nearly 200 “Friends” elsewhere in the world. A major accomplishment was joining with the American Alpine Club in establishin...
Alpamayo, Kitaraju, Pilanco and Loyaqjirka. On August 6 Juan Ignacio Lorente, Angel Rosen, Juan Ramón Arrúe, Ricardo Gallardo, Quique de Pablos, Luis María Sáenz de Olazagoitia, José Urbieta, Felipe Uriarte, Martín Zabaleta, Rafael Chávarri, Juan ...
Apache Thumb. After failing twice because of spring storms, on June 22 Bob Sandefur and I did the first ascent of the west pillar of Apache Thumb, west of Brainerd Lake above Ward. The pillar supports the western of the two summits. Seizing a mome...
The Pupusani-Dasiri Group. The new highway from La Paz to the Yungas gives access to the impressive Pupusani-Kasiri group in forty minutes from the city limits. (Kasiri sometimes is called Rodolfo Gutiérrez.) These peaks are in the low 5000-meter ...
Canyonlands, San Rafael Slabs. Located 15 miles west of Green River, Utah, just south of I-70, a new climbing area has been opened on the Eastern Reef of the San Rafael Swell. Paul Ross and Layne Potter have made four new routes, ranging from 1,20...
Salcantay, Quishuar, etc., Cordillera Vilcabamba. Our expedition, which was in Peru from March to November, had as members Shigeto Maeshiba, deputy leader; Takeshi Rito, Seihei Iwama, Mitsumasa Miyamoto, Tetsuju Kawada, Masami Ogawa, Yoshiaki Sawa...
Johannesburg Mountain, Northeast Rib, Western Rib Variation, Winter Ascent. Steve Mazzioli and I made the first winter ascent of this 5000-foot-high spur in early February. We ascended a thousand feet of honeycomb ice to a snow bowl, then wallowed...
On February 26, while lead climbing in Boulder Canyon with two relatively inexperienced members in my group, I lent my helmet to Rob, the least experienced person in our group (who had never climbed outdoors before). Darin, our most experience...
Disappointment Peak, West Face. In September, Dan Frankl and I lugged hardware over Southfork Pass and around the “back side” of the Palisades to a camp on a terrace below Middle Palisade. Our goal was to find a large rock climb on one of these un...
Alaska, Mount Marcus Baker. (See accident report) After getting Ruth out of the crevasse they walked her back to camp about 1/3 mile, then placed her on an improvised sled in a sleeping bag made of a polyethylene air mattress, etc., and slid her a...
Bramah I, North-Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was made up of Christian Galli, Dominique Julien, Roland Stieger and me as leader. We approached Base Camp at 10,500 feet in the Nanth Nala from Kishtwar on September 13 and 16. From September 19 to ...
Mt. Scott, North Summit, Ascent, and Other Activity. From December to January, an Australian party aboard the yacht Tooluka visited the Peninsula. All the climbers aboard attempted to make the probable first ascent of Mt. Zeppelin (1265m), southea...