Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, 1993. Our group was composed of Betty Hernández, Rosario Rivas, Miguel Delgado, Ramón Jáuregui, Eduardo Márquez, José Medina, Oscar Sánchez and me. After our arrival at El Cocuy on December 20, 1993, by the 24th we were on ...
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind Rivers, Cirque of the TowersOn July 29, 1991, four climbers set out to climb Pingora via the Northeast Face as two separate rope teams. The first rope team was Ian Cruikshank (52) and Jeanette Hel- frich (47). The other t...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn October 19, a climber (age unknown) lounging on a boulder under a route at the Solarium was struck in the head and shoulder by a rock that had been dislodged by a climber above on...
Outdoor Emergency Care. Warren D. Bowman. The National Ski Patrol, 1988.466 pages, profusely illustrated. $19.95 (paper).Commissioned by the National Ski Patrol as a textbook for courses in Winter Emergency Care, this splendid book will prove valu...
Ruth Gorge, Various Ascents. Drew Spaulding, Calvin Hebert and I arrived on the Ruth Glacier on July 5. We planned to stay until early August. One of our goals was to climb Mt. Barille via one of the Cobra Pillar routes. We decided to warm up on t...
Cho Oyu. A Japanese expedition of 13 climbers was led by Takao Haga. They climbed the normal route from the north: the west ridge and west face. On April 27, Hiroshi Kato, Yasushi Tanahashi, Mingma Tenzing Sherpa and Pekka Tenja Sherpa completed t...
The prolific mountain explorer Tamotsu Ohni- shi and four companions visited the Kanti Himal in June. Their aim was the first ascent of three peaks: Kaptang, Kojichuwa Chuli, and Danphe Sail (6,103m)—peaks first opened in 2002 or 2003 and, apart f...
Tutse attempt. A Danish expedition led by Claus Ostergaard made the first official attempt on Tutse (aka Peak 6, 6,758m) close to Makalu. The peak has only recently been opened by the Nepalese Government but is believed to have received at least o...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Mount Rundle, The Professor FallsOn November 23, R.R. was leading the second pitch of this popular Grade III, WI4 route. About twenty feet up the second pitch, he placed his second screw but did not like...
Pk. 6,123m, first ascent, east ridge; Bidhan Parvat, ascent, southeast face. A 10-member expedition from Kolkata, led by Amitava Roy, planned to ascend of Devban (6,855m). The team reached base camp at Thaur Udiar (4,095m) in the Amritganga Valley...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt. Swiss Franco Dellatorre proposed to make a solo winter attempt on Dhaulagiri’s normal northeast ridge. He assumed he would be able to make use of the fixed ropes of the teams that had summited in October, but scanning th...
Pantpatia Glacier, exploration. The trail from Badrinath to Kedarnath Valley, as followed by the team of Shipton and Tilman, is a fascinating piece of history. Their trail via the Gandharpongi Valley was followed by a British team led by Martin Mo...
Cerro de la Mesa, Cordillera de La Ramada, Central Andes. This mountain, a huge ice and rock table very near the mighty Mercedario (6770 m), has a height of ca. 6200 meters (old official height, not corrected) and many other minor summits over 600...
Alpine Club of Canada. With continued membership growth and unprecedented increases in activities, the A.C.C. saw its most successful year yet in Some highlights of the year were in the following areas.The Board of Directors was restructured in 19...
Rainbow Wall, Various Activity. The Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, Nevada, is the closest thing to a big wall you will find near Las Vegas. This 1,000-foot sandstone wall is predominantly vertical and well-featured with edges, seams and cracks. Becaus...
Pik Olympia, Tien Shan, Kirghizstan. The UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations), which represents 77 mountaineering associations world-wide, celebrated in 1994 the 100th anniversary of the Olympic movement. One of its youngest members, ...
Mount Logan Attempt and Ascent of McArthur. Baldomero Rodríguez, Santiago Alvarez, Enrique Lobeto and I were in the St. Elias Mountains in July. At first we attempted the Centennial Ridge on Mount Logan but withdrew because of bad weather and dang...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Olympic National ParkAt 10 a.m. on July 13, John Ury (34) and Roger Drake (30) were climbing West Peak from the Eel Glacier when Ury lost his balance and fell, pulling Drake with ...
Tirich Mir, Ascent. The Japan Hindu-Kush Expedition-1995 succeeded in climbing Tirich Mir (7706 m) on July 7, 1995. The team was led by Nozawai Ayuuni and comprised Iwazaki Hiroshi, 34, Imamura Hirotaka, 35, Imamura Fumiko, 35, L.O. Captain Abid J...
Mount Elijah, North Ridge. On July 6, we followed bear trails toward Elijah’s north ridge. The route ascended a pocket glacier to a notch at 6400 feet. From there the ridge made a direct line to the summit on solid rock. Descent was via the west p...