Sivalaya, by Louis Baume. Reading: Gastons-West Col Publications, 1978. 316 pages, 30 sketches and maps. Price £12.Not everyone will appreciate this book, but for the next several years it will remain the definitive work on the history of the 8000...
Cascades summary. It was another good snow year in the Cascades. After a stable period in February, cool and snowy conditions generally prevailed into spring. In late March, Jens Holsten and Dan Hilden climbed a new line on the northeast face of C...
FALL ON ROCK–UNCONTROLLED RAPPEL, INADEQUATE BACKUPColorado, Clear Creak CanyonOn October 20, I took a friend out to climb. It was her very first time, so I wanted to toprope something that was fairly easy. The climb is called Countersuit, a 5.9 t...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, High Sierra, Middle PalisadeOn August 22, a group of eight Sierra Club members were ascending the Northeast Face of Middle Palisade (3rd class). The party was moving adequately, but slowly. The party w...
Gongga Shan, North Face and Northwest Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Ruedi Alder, Guido Bumann, Claus Coester, Andreas Eschmann, Georges Herren, Thomas Hess, Kurt Weibel and me as leader. We had planned to climb the mount...
Caraz II, south face variation. After we returned from the Huayhuash we climbed in the Blanca. Viktor Mlinar and I decided to climb the Fisher-Warfield-Sheldrake route on the south face of Caraz II (6020m), also called Caraz de Santa Cruz. The rou...
Peaks near McCarthy. The British Schools Exploring Society’s overwintering expedition ran from October 1989 to July 1990 with three groups, each staying about three months. In each, there were eight to twelve young members aged 17 to 20 years with...
On 27 October Warren Harding (44) and Galen Rowell (28) began an ascent on the unclimbed South Face of Half Dome. It was late in the year, but the weather looked good for the future and they both had equipment in the experimental stages, namely...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, LATE START,CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITION California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel FallsGene St. Denis (33) journeyed to Yosemite by skiing from Lake Tahoe to Sonora Pass, and then hitchhiking to Yosemite Valley. He le...
British Columbia, Border Peak. On 5 July Eryl Pardoe (24) and nine companions had just completed an ascent of the Northeast Face of American Border Peak and were descending below the col between the American and Canadian Border Peaks. The party co...
In recent years little mountaineering information has come out of Bolivia. This may partly be due to there currently being no agency or individual committed to collecting mountaineering information, particularly activity relating to new routes ...
Four Miles High, by Josephine Scarr. London: Victor Gollancz, Ltd., 1966. 188 pages plus 32 pages of photographs. 5 sketch maps. 36 sh.Two separate all-woman expeditions into the high Himalayas are intriguingly reported and dramatically pictured i...
M6, Mandaras Valley. An Italian expedition from Ascoli was led by Francesco Saladini and composed of Pinetta Teodori, Maurizio Calibani, Giuseppe Raggi, Giuseppe and Carlo Fanesi and Giancarlo Tosti. They ascended the last unclimbed 6000er of the ...
Cerro La Junta, Viaje a la Luna Creciente. In the grassy meadows of a high plateau, after six hours of horse packing along a muddy trail with several delicate river crossings, Jens Richter and I were surrounded by snowcapped mountains that towered...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Cordillera Oriental, 1991. Our expedition was composed of two women, leader Isabel Suárez and Rosario Rivas, and Carlos Davila and me. Suárez had in December of 1990 climbed the difficult north face of Ritacuba Negro in thi...
About mid-day on February 27, we (author and two others) parked at Miller Creek and began skinning up through sustained high winds towards the terminus of the Canwell Glacier. While skinning on the flat river valley, occasional “whoomphing” was ...
Broad Peak ascents, attempts and tragedy. A Japanese team led by Kunimitsu Sakai reached the summit of Broad Peak by the normal route on June 27. Along with Sakai on the top were Kenji Shimakata, Masato Sasaki and Sachi Masumoto. A second Japanese...
DON WHILLANS Portrait of a Mountaineer, by Don Whillans and Alick Ormerod. London: William Heinemann Ltd. 266 pages, illustrated. £2.50In an age when fine mountaineers are commonplace and excellent ones are everywhere, Don Whillans stands out as o...
Previously unrecorded outside Korea, but an important event in the history of climbing in the Karavshin, was a new route, climbed free, on the giant east face of Pik 4,810m (Boston) above the Ak-su Valley. On July 17,1994, Koreans Choi Byeonggi an...
Borkolday Range, first ascents. The Borkoldoy range is a limestone massif situated north of the Dankova region of the West Kokshaal-Too. Apart from British expeditions in 1995 and 2002, which operated in the northeast and southwest corners of the ...