Mount Fury, North Rib. From our camp on the Challenger Arm, Fred Beckey and I contoured south on the glacier past Crooked Thumb and Phantom to the northwest base of Fury. Here we crossed under the main ice cliff on Fury, rushing through a few aval...
The West Ridge of Mount CrillonLoren H. Adkins, UnaffiliatedON May 16 Bruce Tickell, Marsha Adkins and I set out from Juneau in a 13-foot Boston Whaler outboard. In a day we traveled to Johns Hopkins Inlet in Glacier Bay, picking up Dick Benedict ...
Gran Trono Blanco. On March 29 and 30, Paul McLaughlin and I completed the second ascent and first clean ascent of the intimidating south wall (A.A.J., 1976, p. 477). We used the one and only fixed piton, a baby angle driven ¾ of an inch for the t...
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making the first ascent of Thulagi. We had little information on this mountain, the best being a report from the 2008 Japanese exp...
1951-761977GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta57239912215British Columbia923116216940Yukon Territory101028090Ontario3638204Quebec6220101East Arctic000205W...
Bandaka Group. Setting out on June 10, the Manchester Hindu Kush Expedition travelled overland to Afghanistan, using an ex-army truck. It took us over a month from Manchester to Ghonju. In twelve days we completed the 95-mile walk, with men and ho...
Old Routes and New in the Cordillera BlancaCharles FowlerI WENT TO SOUTH AMERICA in May of 1988 to pursue my profession as a mountain guide. For starters, I traveled to Bolivia and escorted a group from Illinois up the standard route on Illimani S...
Winter ascents of 8,000m peaks, commentary. Katia Lafaille, wife of the renowned Jean Christophe Lafaille, recently reported about the excellent achievement of her husband on Shishapangma, which took place on December 11. Much to my surprise the i...
Vascos al Himalaya: 1974-1992, crónica de una aventura. Antonio Ortega, editor. Pyrenaica. Bilbao, Spain, 1992. 264 pages, 364 color illustrations. Hardbound.Everest: el desafío de un sueño. Rodrigo Jordán. Editora Ograma, Santiago, Chile, 1992. 1...
Yosemite Valley, 1982. Rock climbing continues to flourish in Yosemite National Park, and each year there seem to be more climbers in the valley than the previous year. Certain areas are extremely crowded on the weekends in the spring and fall, no...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran—On August 25, Judy Grove (20), Pat Van Elton (20), and Barbara Nelson (20) all seasonally employed by the Grand Teton Lodge Company, rowed across Leigh Lake in a borrowed boat and set off up the easter...
Cholatse, Southwest Ridge, 1993 Solo Ascent. I went to Nepal along with the 1993 American Cholatse team on September 23 (see AAJ 1994, page 218). After a few days of recovering from bronchitis and other problems at Base Camp I started the ascent o...
Paine Towers. Two expeditions, one English and the other Italian, strove for the same objectives during the first days of 1963 in a most unfortunate rivalry. They were struggling to reach the unclimbed summits of two of the sheer granite spires of...
Mount Pool, Badshot, Selkirks. On August 18 my wife Gretchen and I drove from Argenta to Beaton and then along the Imcomappleux River to the abandoned mining town of Camborne at 1800 feet. We packed up a jeep road along Pool and Mohawk Creeks for ...
An Alpine Traverse of Fairweather and Quincy AdamsJames WickwireFOR several years I had regarded Mount Fairweather as a formless blob of snow, but on a flight to Anchorage last February I caught a close but fleeting glance of sharply defined ice r...
FALLING ROCK, HANDHOLD FAILEDQuebec, Mont Gros BrasS.C. (25) and R.B. (29) were climbing “Valerie Reverie”, a 5.8 route at Mont Gros Bras. R.B. was leading the chimney on the third pitch when he pulled off a large rock which hit S.C. on the left s...
Alone on Dorje Lhakpa Carlos BuhlerDorje LHAKPA IS A RELATIVELY UNEXPLORED BUT BEAUTIFUL PEAK in the Jugal Himal, in the southern part of the same group that includes Shisha Pangma. It is 55 kilometers northeast of Kathmandu, near the eastern end ...
The First Ascent of Brussels PeakRaymond C. GarnerIN THE SUMMER of 1947 my wife and I spent two and one half months making movies in the Canadian Rockies. We travelled the Banff-Jasper highway many times, and became quite familiar with the view ju...
The Age of Mountaineering by James Ramsey Ullman. Philadelphia:J. B. Lippincott Company, 1964. 364 pages. Price $7.50.The 1964 edition of James Ramsey Ullman’s The Age of Mountaineering differs little from its 1954 predecessor. The author has appe...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Bow FallsOn February 12, The Mountaineers party began their approach across the frozen lake at 9:00 a.m., with all on snowshoes except Gordon Schryer (32), who was on skis. They arriv...