Fox Jaw Cirque, new routes. On July 18 Jessica Lundin and I arrived in Kulusuk, thrilled to be attempting new routes in the Arctic. We spent a week in Tasiilaq stocking up on provisions, scrambling up a few mountain ridges, and watching arch-shape...
FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER New Hampshire, Mount LafayetteRussel and Brenda Cox went for a hike to the summit of Mt. Lafayette early Sunday morning, March 21. They had planned to follow...
Kongde-Ri, East Peak. A German Alpine Club five-man expedition from the Allgäu-Kempten section made the first ascent of Kongde-Ri’s eastern (lower) summit (19,991 feet), 21 miles southwest of Mount Everest. The climb was made from the Lumding Khol...
GILBERT V. HARDER 1945-1979On September 19, 1979, after several days of storm, an avalanche swept away Camp IV of the American Annapurna I Expedition and with it, the lives of Gil Harder, Eric Roberts and Maynard Cohick. Gil was a very special per...
Filming the Impossible. Leo Dickinson. Jonathan Cape, London, 1982. 250 pages, color photographs. £12.50.Rarely does one find in a single person both top-level climbing ability and top-level film-making skills. Leo Dickinson is such a person. His ...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. We established Base Camp at Vasundhara Tal on May 24 and followed the traditional East Kamet Glacier route. We set up six high camps. Govind Joshi, Sanjeev Arora and porter Karma climbed Abi Gamin from Camp V on June 8 and I s...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDUtah, Mount OlympusOn January 21, a group of seven climbers from the Korean Alpine Club of Utah started an ascent of Mount Olympus from the Pete’s Rock trailhead. Their plan was to snowshoe to the South summit via the...
Siffleur Wilderness. On July 23 Bill Putnam and I returned to an area near where we had climbed in 1972. We were joined by Frank Morrey, Art MacKenzie, Lisa Wardlow, Gordon Smith, Peter Vlasveld, Lindsay Fawcett and Sepp Renner. Our trek started o...
Canada: Rocky Mountains. Lake O'Hara District. On 17 July 1951 a party of six left the Alpine Club of Canada's camp at Lake O'Hara to climb Mt. Odaray. After about six hours, the gully just below the summit was reached. The first rope, led by Dave...
FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The SquidOn Sunday March 2, a female climber (32) and her partners were climbing the Squid (WI5) located above Emerald Lake and considered by many to be the most spe...
Devils TowerWilliam P. HouseMATO TEEPEE—Devils Tower to the white man—must have inspired awe in many thousands, red and white, before impudent mortals snatched away some of its mystery. Rising in one tremendous shaft from a mount in the rolling pl...
Chouinard Equipment, by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost and Doug Robinson. Santa Barbara, California: Sandollar Press, 1972. 72 pages, $.50 What is a commercial catalog doing in the book review section? Doesn’t it list items and prices just like Sears a...
Epperly-Shinn col, west face, attempt and accident. Tom Nonis and I were dropped off in the cirque to the west of Mt. Epperly on November 23. We planned to climb the west face of the Epperly-Shinn col, with the idea that after having reached the c...
PROTECTION FAILURE –FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite, EI CapitanIn May, Jean-Noel “Jano” Crouzat (48), an experienced French guide, was seriously injured while climbing the Salathe Wall (3 5 pitches, Grade VI) on El Capitan....
Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west to east within the noted countries. We start with the Contiguous United States and then cover Alaska in order for the climbs ...
Meru South (6660m), east face attempt. On September 17 a six-member Spanish team led by Jordi Corominas established base camp below the south and highest summit of the Meru Group. Advanced base was later established at 4900m and an attempt made on...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Rig Cottonwood CanyonThree accidents resulting in fractures were reported from this area, each caused by anchors coming out. (Source: Thad Moore, Salt Lake County Sheriff s Search and Rescue Patrol)(Editors...
RMNP, Various Ascents. Jack Roberts and an Icelander known as “Helgi” climbed Field’s Chimney (WI4 M6). The route, which has thin, steep mixed climbing, came in after not forming for the past eight years. Will Gadd and Marc Twight linked Scobinger...
Saser Kangri I, northwest ridge attempt and Saser Kangri IV ascent. A nine-member team from the Indian Navy made a spirited attempt to repeat the long and difficult northwest ridge of Saser Kangri I (7,672m) in the East Karakoram. This elegant lin...
Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), northwest ridge and first traverse. Sisters Christine Byrch and Pat Deavoll made the second ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (Jade Peak), the most easterly high peak in the Afghan Wakhan Corridor, by ascending a new route on t...