Colorado, Long’s Peak. On August 4 with a clear and sunny sky, Ben Crouse, Gib Gilbert, and Ted Gutmann left Chasm Lake at 8 A.M. to climb the East Face of Long’s Peak by the Alexander’s Chimney route and on to the summit. Return to Chasm Lake was...

P 6730 and Nau Lekh. Our expedition went in seven days from Luklha via the Hinku valley to the Hunku valley. Setting out from 16,400 feet in the Hunku on October 21, Armin Rauter, Karl Brandstätter, Peter Breitegger, Sepp Egarter, Volker Klammer, ...

Confusion Between Ohmi Kangri and Nupchu. In 1949 a Swiss expedition made an attempt on a peak, which they called Nupchu. It is obvious that this is the same peak which is now called Ohmi Kangri. This lies at 27° 53' 52" N. and 87° 57' 51" E. In 1...

Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. As we had the preceding season, we arrived at Chaltén at the beginning of October with a head full of ideas. But “el tiempo” did not give us the same luck. Nevertheless, we had a very good time in this beauti...

Lhotse Attempt. Frenchmen Eric Escoffier and Eric Beilin and Swiss Stéphane Schaffter acclimatized on Island Peak and Lhotse Shar before heading on April 16 for their objective, the south face of Lhotse. The good weather didn’t come. Every afterno...

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak. On 14 August Chris Chidsey (14) and his father, Dr. Charles Chidsey, left their camp near the Chasm Lake Shelter Cabin for an ascent of the East Face of Longs Peak via the Alexander Chimney and U...

Fanskie Mountains, Various Ascents. A lot of famous mountains and good technical routes were climbed in August in the Fanskie Mountains of Tadjikistan during the Europe-Asia Association of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Championships. All of the...

Yanacaico or Mitopunta, Southern Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 20 David Isles, Harry Eldridge, Elliott Fisher, Nan Cochran, Charles (Chip) Morgan, Hall Hutchison and I headed over the small pass north of Cajatambo and dropped into the Pumarinri va...

Arwa Tower and Arwa Spires, various new routes. A French expedition led by Antoine de Choudens (with 11 members) climbed the recently discovered Arwa Tower (6,352m) by two different routes. First they established base camp on May 4 at the foot of ...

Kedarnath, North Face Ascent and Tragedy. A joint Indo-Australian military expedition climbed Kedarnath (6940 meters, 22,770 feet) by a new route on the north face. It consisted of Australians Bob Killip, Nevin Agnew, Captain Brian Morrissey, Lieu...

Gorkondon or Kinnaur Kailash. An Indo-Tibetan Border Polish team led by D.S. Mallik made the first ascent of this 21,247-foot peak. Previous attempts had been made from the west, but the present team took the northeast route from Tiran Kund and Du...

Pumori Ascents, Tragedy and Attempt. An expedition led by Briton Henry Todd had 7 British, 4 Polish climbers and one each from Switzerland, the United States and New Zealand. They climbed the normal southeast ridge and face. On October 25, Poles R...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION New Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn October 4, I was climbing at Cathedral Ledge with a friend. We were doing a four pitch 5.9 route called Diedre, and despite the sun, we were on the north side on a cool (but blue...

Restrictions on Expeditions in Afghanistan. Friedrich Weber of Mark- toberdorf, Germany informs us that the Afghan government is now collecting duty on food imported amounting to one to two dollars per kilo. Porter fees are very high; they had to ...

Annapurna I (8,091m), west face, Czechoslovak Route, attempt. Peter Hamor (Slovakia), Piotr Morawski, Piotr Pustelnik, and Dariusz Zaluski (all from Poland) made a spirited attempt on the unrepeated Czechoslovak Route on the huge west face. Midway...

The American Safe Climbing Association, Formation and Activity. It’s been a busy first six months for the American Safe Climbing Association. We have replaced about 500 old, unsafe bolts in Yosemite, half of the goal for this season. We’ve picked ...

California, East Central portion of Yosemite National Park—On March 22nd, Bart Hooley, Max Allen, Bill Pope, Mike Roberts, Margaret Mayer, and Lenore Lamb (all 21), departed from June Lake on a ski tour over the Sierra crest and down into Yosemite...

AVALANCHE— Colorado, Mt. Ypsilon. Two climbers were injured in an avalanche in the “Y” Couloir on July 4. No other details available, but reported here because of an avalanche in the same place at the same time in 1976. (Source: Alpine Rescue Team...

Khan Tengri Tragedy. On July 23, a number of teams occupied camp in the 6000-meter col between Pik Chapayeva and Khan Tengri: Ukrainians, Russians, Poles, Kazakhs, Hungarians, Koreans, Japanese. A severe snowstorm began. At 4:45 A.M. on July 25, a...

Siulá, East Face. Our team consisted of Dr. Kurt Schoisswohl, Mario Blumenthaler, Michl Grüner and me. Our objective was a direct ascent of the east face of Siulá Grande. (Apparently this was different from the Catalonian route of 1963.—Editor.) F...