FALL, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS—Colorado, Quandry Mountain. Donald Gordon (21), Michael Bearzi (24), and William Trull (22) were climbing on the north face of Quandry Mountain on May 29. They started from McCullough Gulch at 8:30 a.m...

Kok Sel, Xinjiang. A 17-member Japanese expedition led by Eiji Kamei climbed for the first time a 6705-meter (21,998-foot) peak in the Kongur group, which they called Kok Sel. After establishing Base Camp at 4600 meters on August 1, they placed th...

Robert Gerhard, Ranger, Mount McKinley National ParkMount Foraker, Sultana Ridge. Roger Cowles, Brian Okonek and I made the second winter ascent of Foraker on March 15 by a route which had been unsuccessfully tried eight times. Eight-and-a-half mi...

PULMONARY EDEMAYukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains, Mt. Logan, East RidgeDavid Isles, David Wood, Rob Banfield, and Barry Hagen started climbing the east ridge of Mt. Logan on 6 June 1978 and had reached 5,050 meters on 11 June. Isles was moving ...

Annapurna II, III and IV Attempts. It was reported that a three-member Serbian expedition led by Slobodan Gejo attempted Annapurna II via the Standard Route, which begins up the northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. They reached 6483 meters on Annapurn...

Rasac, East Face. Michèle Besinge, Yves Astier and James Mérel climbed the east face of Rasac in July, 1976. The climb was repeated twice in 1977 by French and Germans (A.A.J., 1978 pp. 571-2.) This route was repeated in 1978 by several French cli...

Mt. d’Iberville/Mt. Caubvick, Ascent. On August 14, Tom Bennett, Hope Bennett, Tony Daffern and I made an ascent of the Koroc Ridge (south ridge) of Mt. d’Iberville from a small unnamed lake at the foot of the ridge. This is possibly a new route, ...

A.A.C., Southern California Section. During 1964 the section completed its first year with a membership of 40. Three meetings were held, and one lecture was sponsored. Section members were active on Mount McKinley and in the Peruvian Andes. In Oct...

Mount Wister, Direct North Face. A beautifully direct route up the steep slabs of the north face of Mount Wister was pioneered on July 27 by Layton Kor and Gary Cole. After starting to the right of the initial chimney used by the 1952 northwest ch...

Southern Purcell Mountains. From a camp at about 7300 feet on the stream draining southeast from Mount Dorothy into Horsethief Creek, Rich Gnagy and I made the first ascent of the unnamed 10,320-foot peak located one mile north of Mount Dorothy an...

El Tronador and Catedral Group, New Routes above Bariloche. During January a climbing instruction and certification course was carried out on the Argentine-Chilean frontier. The course, organized by the Argentine Federatión de Ski y Andinismo, was...

South Chasm View Wall, Goldberg Special, Shadowboxing. During two days in October Heidi Wirtz and I free climbed the lower part of the Goldberg Special on South Chasm View Wall, joining Astrodog for the upper pitches. The crux A3 aid pitch went fr...

Isla Santa Inés, Patagonia. Peter Mortensen, Hector Vittone, Hermann Joos and I got together in Punta Arenas on January 26. We spent a fruitless week trying to get a boat to take us to the island, then buying gasoline, taking things out of customs...

Mount Russell, New Route. On the south side of Mount Russell, to the right of the ridge which defines the Sierra crest, are two prominent arêtes. The left arête is a previously unreported eight-pitch 5.8 climb, first ascent unknown. In July, Claud...

LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Pinnacle Peak BasinAround 11:00 a.m. on Sunday, July 12, an unidentified member of a Seattle Mountaineers party of 120 persons came to the Paradise First Aid office and stated that a member of their p...

FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount YpsilonOn August 26, Larisa J. Watson (23) and three partners partially ascended the Blitzen Ridge route on Mount Ypsilon when they noticed...

Gangchen. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Tohru Shibazaki made the first ascent of Gangchen (21,200 feet). Base Camp was set up on June 24 at 14,375 feet on the Hoh-Lungma Glacier, west of the peak. Camp I at 15,900 feet was placed on June...

Makalu, West Face, Ascent and Tragedy. A team of climbers from Ekaterinburg, Russia, led by Sergei Efimov, made an ascent of Makalu’s west face in the pre-monsoon season. Their ascent followed the right-hand ice faces to the great headwall, then j...

Geikie, West Ridge. In early August A1 DeMaria, John Hudson and I went to the Ramparts to try the first ascent of the west ridge of Geikie. Glad to escape the throngs of mosquitos and climbers at Moat Lake, we walked down Tonquin Valley and then c...

Bear Creek Spire, P 13,600 and Ruby Lake Wall. In December of 1985, Kevin Ball and I made the first winter ascent of the east ridge of Bear Creek Spire, finding it much as Galen Rowell had described it: long and enjoyable. In February of 1987, I r...