FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, Middle SisterOn August 15, Trent Gabel (16) fell to his death, most likely from dislodging rocks, while attempting to climb a route on Middle Sister. He was with Pathfinders Youth Group from Tillamook, and at t...
JOSEPH BELFIELD McINTYRE 1873-1943Only with the new year did we learn that Mr. McIntyre died at his home in Providence on July 20, 1943. He joined the Club in 1924, but was almost unknown to our present membership. His son, Paul Roper McIntyre (19...
Mt. Rae, New Route. On February 4, a new route, Stray Beaker (Grade III), on the southern face of Peak 1848 (Mt. Rae), was climbed solo from the west end of Lake Hoare (58m) in the Taylor Valley. This massif lies directly to the north of the lake ...
P 2100, Kap Farvel, 1974 and 1986. Beyond Kangikitsoq on the right bank of the fjord rises imposing P 2100 (6890 feet). At the beginning of August in 1974, Claude Aulard, Alan Douglas and I climbed a difficult 1200-meter-high route up the great co...
Mount Maxwell and Peaks above the Kaskawulsh Basin. The second small expedition of the Paris Section of the French Alpine Club took place from July 30 to August 24. We were Jean Bernard Givet, Jacques Deyme, Philippe Montufet, Steve and Pierre Cha...
Colorado, Independence Pass, Grizzly Peak. On 8 August Michael T. Doyle (25) and Peter Abplanalp (25) were climbing Grizzly Peak from Grizzly Lake with Michael in the lead and Peter belaying. At the time of the accident Michael was climbing out of...
Howser Peak, North Face, Bugaboos. Eric Bjornstad joined me to climb this seldom visited Bugaboo peak in late July. We crossed a bergschrund below and to the right of a giant, menacing ice cliff, then headed up a 50° snow finger between the ice an...
Mt. Elbrus, Refuge of 11 Hut Fire. The Refuge of 11—the famous high-altitude hut on Mount Elbrus—was completely destroyed by fire on August 16. This site for the hut was first used in 1909 when 11 Russian climbers spent a night here before climbin...
Istor-o-Nal North I. We climbed Istor-o-Nal North I on the 1967 Lapuch’s Austrian route, which was repeated in 1976 by Naar’s Dutch expedition. We were Horst-Jürgen Stierle, Klaus-Jürgen Cramer, Norbert Kraus, Anita Burk- hardt and I as leader. We...
Gangapurna North Face. A small Slovene team reached the summit of Gangapuma (7455 meters, 24,457 feet) in the Annapurna Himal by the previously unclimbed north face. Rok Kolar and Stanko Mihev completed a three-day push on October 1. The other mem...
Puscanturpa Norte, Northwest Face. An Italian expedition led by Graziano Bianchi and composed of Felice Boselli, Giuseppe Buizza, Giuseppe Caneva, Agostino Da Polenza, Carlo Milani, Gino Mora and Edoardo Pozzoli returned to Puscanturpa Norte, whic...
Trisul II, attempt. An 11-member expedition from Calcutta, led by Amitava Roy, attempted Trisul II, a 6,690m peak situated above the Bidalgwar Glacier. This peak was first climbed by a former Yugoslavian expedition in 1960 (by the Japanese in 1978...
Bhagirathi II. A 26-member team from the Indian Special Frontier Force was led by Colonel H.B.S. Phokela. They set up Base Camp at Nandandan on May 11 and Advance Base in a bowl below Vasuki Parbat on May 17. Six members set out from there on May ...
Phabrang. This 20,250-foot peak in Chamba Lahoul was climbed on August 20 by all three members of a British team and Indian liaison officer, Flying Officer Vinod Buglani. The mountain had been climbed only once before by a Japanese team.Kamal K. G...
Kangtega, Northeast Buttress. The German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was led by me. After an 11-day approach from Jiri, we set up Base Camp on September 21 at 4900 meters on the moraine-covered Hinku Nup Glacier. It snowed for the next w...
HARRY C. MCDADE, M.D. 1924-1997In last year’s In Memoriam, Bill Putnam tells well of Harry McDade’s honors from surgery, his remarkable mountain rescue work and his AAC Sowles Award. During his 33 years as a club member, Harry climbed or piloted h...
FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Rainier, McClure RockOn July 4, Mr. Wilkinson (47) was descending the mountain following an Alpine Ascents International (AAI) summit trip. About 2015, Wilkinson tripped over his crampon and fe...
Täsclihorn; South Face. This wall was climbed for the second time on June 28th, 1935 by Alexander Taugwalder and Karl Biner. Starting from the Täschalp in a drizzle, the foot of the face was reached at 7 a.m. They started up the left bank of the g...
Ames Fall, Near Telluride. The winter of 1975-6 was one of the mildest for years in Colorado. I had done only one short ice climb, leaving me ill-prepared for the shock of my first view of Ames Fall. No previous description could compare to its cl...
Mount Proboscis, Crazy Horse. On July 30, pilot Warren LaFave flew Simon Elias (Spain), Chad McMullen and me onto Glacier Lake below the Cirque of the Unclimbables. LaFave arranged a helicopter to then fly us, and our mountain gear, to the base of...