Manuel D’Alpinisme. Two volumes, 8 vo. Chambéry : Librairie Dardel, 1934.With the evolution of Alpinism rapidly going on, the technic of mountain climbing is progressively more complex. It is natural then that new books on Alpine craft should appe...
Karakoram SummerA prolific month of new~routing in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.Steve HouseSeptember 2003, Hushe village, BaltistanAs I clean, dry, and pack expedition supplies into plastic drums, I review the climbing season that just ended, hi...
Granite Mountain. A pocket guide to rock climbing in Granite Basin, Prescott National Forest, Arizona, by David Lovejoy. Prescott, Arizona: Published on a grant from The Prescott Institutions, 1973. 120 pages, numerous photographs, drawings and di...
FALL ON HARD SNOW—CRAMPONS ICED UP, UNABLE TO SELFARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, Palmer GlacierOn June 11, Andy March (32) was descending from the summit of Mount Hood about noon when his crampons became “iced up,” and he was unable to clear them by ta...
Traverse of West Temple and Towers of the Virgin. On the spring equinox, Dan Stih and I made a complete traverse of the West Temple and the Towers of the Virgin. The idea materialized while making the first ascents of the towers in the winter of 1...
El Capitan, Heart of Darkness. In August 1982 Peter Mayfield, Auggie Klein and I attempted a new route taking the thin seams to the right of the North America Wall, planning to continue up the black diorite right of the Sea of Dreams. Though we ga...
Alaska, Mendenhall Glacier. On March 19, Roger Morris (19), Gale Good (19), and Jerry Dove (19) roped together were climbing on the Mendenhall Glacier. One of the party slipped into a crevasse and pulled one companion after him. The rope broke nea...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mt. WhitneyOn December 29, 1980, Steven Goolsby (30) was descending an ice hard snowfield below the trail crest with his two companions when he slipped and fell 1,400 feet ...
Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I, Ascents. A Korean team of four climbing members and an equal number of Sherpas under the leadership of Sung Soon-Je, who himself did not climb, scaled both Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I in the pre-monsoon season. They ...
Mount Johannesburg, Northeast Face. On December 22, John Stoddard and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mount Johannesburg. From a bivouac under a sérac on the hanging glacier, we climbed the couloir formed by a fault on the left side...
New York, Shawangunks. On 10 November Sandra Satterthwaite and her leader had finished their climb and were returning to the Uber Fall via the foot path unroped as is usually done. As she climbed down a short face she stepped past the ledge that w...
Mt. Quadra, Gimme Shelter. In March, Alain Massin and Steve Pratt managed the second ascent of Gimme Shelter on Mt. Quadra. First climbed over two days in 1983 by Kevin Doyle and Tim Friesen with exceptionally thin ice for seven pitches, it was ea...
Southwest Section. After an extended period of dormancy, the Southwest Section was revitalized in 2005. It began with a formal complaint letter sent to the Club’s headquarters, filled with threats of canceled membership dues, and was replied to wi...
Tordrillo Mountains, first full-length traverse. Over nine days in May, Andrew Wexler, Dylan Taylor, and I, using skis, made the first full-length traverse of the Tordrillo Mountains. We covered 100 miles from south to north, climbing 38,000 verti...
Baruntse, North Summit. A four-man Netherlands team led by Joost Ubbink attempted to follow the route of the French attempted in the spring of 1980 and the Americans in the autumn of the same year, onto the north ridge from the western side. Ubbin...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Although the H.M.C. sponsored no expeditions of its own last summer, its members were active in various parts of the climbing world. Andrew Kauffman and Tom Nevinson were members of the successful Hidden Peak Expeditio...
Kirat Chuli Attempt. A joint British-Nepalese Army expedition was led by Major Michael Kefford and Major Gaurav S.J.B. Rana. Snowstorms depositing much new snow and later strong winds defeated their attempt to scale Nepal Peak via its south ridge ...
Aguja Mermoz, Vela y Viento. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold (G) climbed a new route on the east buttress of Aguja Mermoz that they named Vela y Viento (5.12 b/c ED, 500m). They finished on January 9, after several weeks of attempts with the use of f...
Lhotse Shar, East Ridge Attempt. Alan Burgess, Joe Frank, Dick Jackson and I had hoped to traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse via Lhotse Middle. We arrived at Base Camp on August 28 and established staging camp at 19,000 feet from where we could f...
Pico Candela, new routes. [Located north of Monterrey off Highway 1 and split by the border between Coahuila and Nuevo León, but accessed from Coahuila, this obvious 1,000' granite spire has received numerous shorter routes recently, bringing the ...