AVALANCHE, FROSTBITEYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganA party of seven climbers from Colorado was attempting an unclimbed north ridge of Mount Logan. About 11 a.m. on June 11, 1982, their camp at about 15,500 feet was struck by an ava...

The Southeast Face of Mount Dickey David S. Roberts   WHAT fun it was. All spring, in the gloom of planning, we had grumbled about this next 400 feet. The crux of the whole route, we had prophesied, reason enough to justify fixing the first day...

Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group. In April Kevin Doyle and I climbed the true north face of Mount Goodsir in a sustained three-day epic. The face, which is one of the largest in the Canadian Rockies, provided 6000 feet of mainly snow-and-...

ROCKSLIDECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn May 21, while ascending the Avalanche Gulch route, a large rock slide occurred, hitting a party of one guide and four clients. Two clients were injured.The Sierra Wilderness Seminar (SWS) guided...

Summit Registers. The focus of our club is climbing difficult routes on remote high-country peaks, seeking out the few remaining registers in the Sierra, and, more importantly, preserving this history and these records. Through our endeavors, I ha...

Reichardt describes the approach and climb: “What was it like?” “It covered the whole spectrum from unity to anarchy, from triumph to despair,” I replied. “We were such a diverse group but pulled together when it counted. We came very close to...

FALL ON ROCK-FOOTHOLD BROKE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Tonquin Valley, Mount OublietteA.M. and I just got back from the Tonquin where (I believe) we did the first ascent of a direct start to the Beckey (East Ridge) Route ...

JotunheimenDowns LongakerSEPTEMBER 1st, 1939, brought to the world the utter tragedy of war, but to me, at that time unaware of the events in the outside world, it meant the completion of one of the most enjoyable sojourns I have ever had in the m...

Climbing in the Mount Sneffels Region, ColoradoDwight G. Lavender and T. Melvin GriffithsGOOD climbing possibilities are usually enough to lure most alpinists to a region, but new routes and perchance first ascents add further zest to the enterpri...

Tasiilaq Fjeldhytte, Keerali Gletscher Area, Various Ascents. On April 13, John and Liz Williams, Dr. Steve Kershawa, and I (all British) flew from Iceland to Kulusuk, then on by chartered Air Alpha helicopter along the length of Ammassalik Fjurdv...

CHESTER DAVID TOLLAKSON1936-1994More than anything, Dave Tollakson was a teacher. He was devoted to his students as a mathematics and drafting instructor and upon his retirement from Burbank, California’s John Muir Junior High School, he establish...

Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During the 2002 climbing season in Kluane National Park Reserve, a total of 130 persons participated in 35 mountaineering expeditions. This accounted for 2,258 person-days in the...

Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an initial attempt on March 31. On the evening of April 2, we left camp carrying 40 hours of food and fue...

Himalaya Alpine Style: The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1996. Color photographs, hardcover. $45.00.Here’s a book that describes the Himalayan climbs that matter to cli...

Canadian Rockies, summary. The big news of the summer of 2004 in the Canadian Rockies was a visit in July by the German soloist Frank Jourdan. He warmed up on the Greenwood-Jones (IV 5.8 A1) and the Supercouloir (IV 5.8) on the north faces of Mts....

ChangabangChristian Bonington, Alpine Climbing GroupMARTIN Boysen, Dougal Haston, Balwant Sandhu, Doug Scott, Chewang Tachei and I reached the summit of Changabang (22,520 feet) at four P.M. on June 4. This was the culmination of three weeks of in...

FALLING ROCK–FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER BELAY TECHNIQUE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez PerceOn June 30 about 9:30 a.m., Jeff Heinrichs (29) of Jackson, WY, took a leader fall on Nez Perce. He was unable to walk after the...

Cascade Alpine Guides, Climbing and High Routes: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass and Rainy Pass to Fraser River. Fred Beckey. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1977/1981. 354/328 pages, black-and-white photographs, line drawings, maps. $11.95 each.One frequen...

Illimani, south face to southwest ridge. After acclimatizing in Peru’s Cordilleras Huayhuash and Blanca, and a short trip to Huayna Potosi (Bolivia), Yvonne Koch and I planned to try a new route on the rarely visited western sector of Illimani’s s...

RAPPEL ERROR–FAILURE TO CHECK ANCHOR, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Shiprock, Hindu KushOn July 3, Lewis M. Jones II (22), and his partner, Joe Wilson (23) climbed Hindu Kush (5.8), a popular Shiprock route. Shiprock is a popular climbing a...