P 12,860, Cyclorama Wall. This obscure summit, located in the middle of a netherworld between the Palisades and Leconte Canyon, is a mile-wide, 1000-foot, vertical wall every bit as impressive as the Diamond on Longs Peak. To reach it, one must cr...
Encyclopedia Britannica, 14th Edition, 1929.The following notes make record primarily of topographical errors and discrepancies found in certain topic headings dealing with the mountains of North America. In general, a lack, of editorial uniformit...
The Shark's FinAfter beating back dozens of the world’s best climbers, Meru’s central peak finally succumbed to an unrelenting soloist. Indian Garhwal.Valeri BabanovAs far as I knew there had been about 15 attempts on India’s Meru Central, otherwi...
Logan Mountains. Ted Maden, Nona Okun and I landed at the upper end of Lonely Lake in Hole-in-the-Wall valley on July 16 and set up Base Camp about half a mile further west by a river. Two days later we all climbed the twin “Reconnaissance Peaks” ...
Sha Mo Karpo Ri (Mt. White Cap), first ascent. In September and October I returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha Range, situated about 80km north of Lhasa. It was my third visit to this region, so we celebrated the return heartily with the local inhabit...
People say that Annapurna is dangerous from the north, dangerous and difficult from the northwest, and steep, dangerous, and difficult from the south. My first experience with Annapurna was in the autumn of 2008, when I tried to climb the northwes...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. A seven-member Spanish expedition led by Jose Garces attempted K2 by the south-southeast spur. The account of their successful and subsequently tragic expedition as told to Xavier Eguskitza appears earlier in this journal.
Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock. On July 6 Robert Sayre (49) and two young companions were attempting a route called Cussin’ Crack (a fifth class deceptive dihedral with smooth walls) on a warm, sunny, windless day. Sayre led up the crack an...
The Rock Anchor (Bolt) Set. Increasing numbers of rock climbers, with and without a fancy for technical undertakings, have begun to add the rock anchor set to their supplies of hardware.2 The equipment was originally developed for purposes of dire...
The Sergeant, Purcells. The icefalls into the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers are so spectacular and challenging that no one had touched them. Blessed by favorable weather, Arnold Wexler, Morgan Broman and I went up the most easterly of these icefall...
Bonanza Peak, three-summit traverse. On August 21 and 22 Kurt Buch- wald, Peter Avolio, and I completed the first ridge traverse (V 5.7/5.8) of all three summits of Bonanza Peak. The route involves an approach via the Mary Green Glacier, climbing ...
Alpine Panoramas and PeepshowsJ. Monroe ThoringtonTOWARD the end of the eighteenth century there arose in many European cities and towns the urge to make, exhibit and view models of the Alps, for the dual purpose of refreshing the traveller’s mind...
Mount Everest, German-French Expedition. The German portion of my German-French Everest expedition was composed of 16 people. The main group took off from Munich on August 8, a week after Pierre Mazeaud and his French group of 14. To help the Fren...
Exploring the Olympic Peninsula by Ruth Kirk. Seattle: University Press, 1964. 120 pages, illustrations. Paperback, $1.95. Ruth Kirk and her husband are both outdoor enthusiasts, outstanding outdoor photographers, and spend much of their free...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth CenturyIntroductionANY attempt to present the development of American mountaineering in the Alps must, of very necessity, be fragmentary. Records were inadequately kept, and much material ...
AconcaguaCarles Capellas and Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informació de MuntanyaThe idea of a new map of Aconcagua was partly inspired as a continuation of the Cuadernos de Alpinismo (“Mountaineering Notebooks”)* and partly because of the diffi...
Ascents in the Selkirk Range. A number of seldom-climbed peaks in the Selkirks were ascended by a geological field party under the leadership of J. O. Wheeler, and including David Norris from McMaster University and John Ricker, Hugh Naylor, Oz Se...
Washington, summary of activity. 2007 was not particularly rainy, but the Cascades never saw the usual settled periods in late winter or the typical eight or more weeks of summer sunshine. Even worse, dry weather invariably seemed to come midweek,...
Mt. Barille, East Face, Orgler-Bonapace, probable third ascent. On June 21 Ken Sauls and I flew into the Ruth, where we made a second ascent of the 1988 Orgler-Bonapace East Face route on Mt. Barille. Just gaining the rock was tricky, involving a ...
False Dawn—ForakerJohn Phelan, Whizzo ClimbersTHE MYRIAD REASONS and justifications for alpine climbing are as personal as the sweaty palms of the practitioner’s, but disappointment and despair were new to me as a driving force of alpinism. As we ...