Koz Sar Attempt. Our party consisted of Peter Williams, Declan MacMahan, Steve Richardson, Ivan Wolton and me as leader. We hoped to make the first ascent of Koz Sar (6677 meters, 21,875 feet) at the western end of the Karakoram. Being close to Af...

Lone Pine Peak, Direct South Face. Early in May, Fred Beckey and I established ourselves in an abandoned stone house an hour from the south face of Lone Pine Peak (12,951 feet). Expecting the worst, we ferried heavy packs to a point directly benea...

P 1881, Northwest of Narssarssuaq, Southwest Greenland. Although only about 25 air-miles from Narssarssuaq, there are relatively high groups of untouched alpine peaks. The right (northwest) bank of the glacier, the Eqalorutsit Kangigdlît Sermiat, ...

Blackcap. Four members of the Alaska Alpine Club, John Hodsdon, Jim Mack, Ron DeWitt and I made the first ascent of Mount Blackcap (9850 feet) at the head of the Castner Glacier on the weekend of July 16. Leaving the Richardson Highway at eleven P...

Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. An 8-man Polish expedition led by Zdzi- slowski was active in the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy.* They made six new routes, given here with altitude, height of the climb and UIAA rating: Pan de Azúcar (5100 meters, 16,733 feet; 16...

Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. On June 20, Rob Feeney and I flew into Little Switzerland and set up a base camp on the Pika Glacier. After a 24-hour rain storm, the clouds parted and we had mostly good weather for the next ten days. We spent...

Trisul. The Himalayan Association of Japan Garhwal Expedition was composed of Sadashige Inada, leader, Kazuo Nonaka, Fuji Tsunoda, Hideko Annaka and Keiko Tsurube, the latter two women, Setsuo Suzuki, Hideo Hatakeyama, Takao Iijima, Isato Kitagawa...

Nez Perce, South Ridge, variation. The south ridge route (1954) had the defect of bypassing on the right (east) the steepest section of the ridge, a “steep, massive buttress” of some 300 feet. This section was climbed directly on August 10 by Jack...

Liberty Bell, Southeast Corner, Freedom Rider. Bryan Burdo and I climbed this route on August 13 and 14. It follows the comer system beginning 150 feet left of Liberty Crack. After the first few moderate pitches, increasingly difficult climbing on...

Dhaulagiri II, III and. V Traverse. Nineteen Japanese men were led by me, the only woman on the expedition. Base Camp was set up south of the peaks at 16,000 feet on the Tsaulabon Glacier. There on September 3 the climbers split. One group establi...

Aconcagua, South Face. Sharon Wood and I have just returned from what strikes us as an extraordinary experience. We climbed the French route on the south face of Aconcagua from December 17 to 22. All we can say is that Robert Paragot, who led the ...

Makalu Attempt. Our 4-man attempt on the regular route on Makalu failed. On May 20 Chris Dube and John Bouchard left; Chris had early signs of cerebral edema. Rick Wilcox and I started up on a third assault, but he got severe diarrhea and vomiting...

Pamirs, 1968. There was a great deal of climbing that went on in the U.S.S.R. in 1968. Most remarkable were two ascents in the Pamirs. The 8000-foot southwest wall of Pik Kommunisma (24,590 feet), highest in the country, was climbed for the first ...

Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man. On July 20 Jørgen Becher, Steffen Laetsch, and I completed an ascent of Stupid White Man on the south-southwest face of the Left Pillar of Nalumatorsoq. The same team made an attempt on this line du...

El Obispo, El Altar. In early January, my wife Julie and I made the beautiful two-day approach to the volcano, E1 Altar. We intended to repeat the Italian route on the north face of E1 Obispo. (5340 meters, 17,520 feet), the highest of the nine su...

Kala Nag. In June an Indian group from the Doon School climbed Kala Nag. The summit was reached by H. Nautiyal, Kalu Singh, S. Gopal, J.S. Bindra, A. Mahey and leader S.C. Biala.

Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line). True alpinism isn’t solely the discovery of new walls, of new lines, of difficulties to overcome, but more than anything it involves the willingness to have open eyes and an open mind in order to reach t...

Mount Jacobsen, East Face of East Peak. On the theory that a six- day trip to the Ape Lake area in the Bella Coola region is better than not going at all, Mickey Schurr and I decided to gamble on a quick strike at what seemed one of the best alpin...

Llullaillaco. On September 18-21, Rodrigo Jordán, Juan Sebastián Montes, Claudio Lucero, Cristián García-Huidobro, Christian Buracchio and I climbed one of the summits of Llullaillaco (6723 meters, 22,058 feet), where we found pieces of wood which...

Shahan Dok, Central Hindu Raj. Last year we made an unsuccessful attempt on this mountain of which we made the first ascent this year. We set up Base Camp on July 2 at 3800 meters. We again followed the same route along the east ridge from Shahan ...