Bylot Island. In May Caroline Cochran, Eric Rosenfeld, Frederick Vosburgh and I engaged in a mini-expedition to Bylot Island. In 1974 Curt Saville, my wife and I had landed on the island and climbed P 4064 a few miles up the previously unexplored ...
Mount Kimball, P 10,310 and P 11,288. Mount Kimball was climbed for the third time but by a new route by Jim Bouchard and José Rueter. In February, Doug Buchanan and Mark Wumkes made the first ascent of P 10,310 in the central Alaska Range. Boucha...
Annapurna II Tragedy. Our expedition, Kozo Sakai, Norio Nakanishi, Nobuhiko Arita, Tuneo Kondo, Hiroshi Okazoe, Takayuki Asada, Ky- oichi Ichikawa, Dr. Yoshiyasu Sawai and I as leader, hoped to climb a new route on the south face of Annapurna II. ...
Aconcagua, South Face. For good reason the Messner route on the south face of Aconcagua is getting popular. At least ten Americans made it in February of 1983. After ten days on the face, Lars Holbrook, Keith Hadley, George? and Thomas? reached th...
Bogda Attempt, 1980. In October, 1980 Austrians under the leadership of Markus Schmuck undertook the ascent of Bogda, the base of which they reached in a 24-day approach via Heavenly Lake. Snow lay as low as 7500 feet. They placed Base Camp at 12,...
Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988. In July of 1988, Tim Olson and I climbed a discontinuous six-pitch arch, slab and dyhedral system up the central east face of Beacon Rock. Tim had attempted the route four times previously with Greg Lyons, Celil C...
Gangstang. A 13-member team from Calcutta led by Bishnu Prasad Roy climbed Gangstang (6163 meters, 20,218 feet), reaching the summit on August 15. Those who got to the top were Bolai Banerjee and Ghanshyam Thakur. Independently of them, Stimit Sri...
Mont Blanc. No. 6 (A.A.J., ii, 365). George W. Heard. Eustace Anderson writes: “When we arrived at the cabin [Grands Mulets], in addition to our own party we found two young gentlemen, Mr. Chapman and Mr. Heard, an American, who had come up with t...
Molar Tooth, North Ridge and two East Face Routes, 1991-2. The Molar Tooth lies a mile north of Cutthroat Peak. Only when viewed from Cutthroat Lake does one see the nearly vertical 1000-foot east face. The first ascent of the Molar Tooth was made...
Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall. On July 3 Mike Swayne and I left our camp at 6500 feet at three a.m. and an hour later reached the glacier 2000 feet higher. After crossing the two bergschrunds, we headed directly up the center of the headwall ...
RAPPEL ERROR – FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, POOR ROUTE RESEARCHAlberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow PeakOn July 18, MJ and AB left the climbers parking lot at 0930 to climb Morrow Peak via the guide’s route. Weather was good b...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Correction. On page 278 of A.A.J., 1987, it was omitted that Rüdiger Lang had climbed solo to the summit on August 17, 1986, the day before his companions.
Cordillera Real. The Chileans, Ociel González, Heinz Koch, Alvaro Ramos, and Hernán Cruz, made the second ascent of Ayllaico (17,390 feet) and the fourth ascent of Pico Negro (18,370 feet).
During the months of June and July, Dave Anderson, Steph Davis, Brady Robinson, and I were given a special permit to explore and climb in the Kondus Valley of Pakistan’s eastern Karakoram. The Kondus Valley had been closed to foreigners for the pa...
Everest, First Mexican Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Americans Scott Fischer, Robert Reynolds, Wally Berg, Bill Butler, Pat Howard, Tim Thorne, Ken Frick, Scott Moore, Dick Moran, Sheri Henderson, Peter Jamieson and me as leade...
Cheo Himal. The previously untrodden summit of Cheo Himal (6820 meters, 22,375 feet), which is north-northwest of Manaslu, was reached on October 13 by Japanese Shigeki Imoto and Nepalese Tshering Sherpa, Ful Bahadur Rai and Dambar Bahadur Gurung,...
FALLING ROCK-THROWN FROM RIDGEWyoming, Wind River Range, Leg lake CirqueOn August 11, Luke Rodolph (23) stood on the rim of Upper Silas Canyon with three of his friends. He allegedly looked over the edge of the rim and didn’t see anyone. He then t...
Vinson Massif, New Routes. My wife Jo and I have just returned from the Vinson Massif, where we completed two new routes on Vinson from the west. The first route was made from Camp on the normal route. In a four-day climb up and down, we took a li...
The Incredible Hulk, Macedonian Route. In late July Dave Bircheff and I climbed a new route on the west face of the Incredible Hulk. The route was eleven pitches of mixed free and aid. At the base of the west face a left-leaning crack (the right ...
Mount Sanford, Ski Ascent. A winter attempt on Mount Sanford (16,230 feet) by Mark Moderow, Dennis Cowacs, Bill Laxson and me in late March failed in miserable weather at 13,000 feet. On July 17 David Titus, my wife Rowi and I climbed the peak fro...