Deborah, West Face. Andy Reynolds, Keith Eckelmeyer and I made the third ascent of the west face of Deborah. Although it was a great climb, nothing really noteworthy took place. We repeated the straightforward west-face route, the most direct and ...
Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition pioneered a new route between the 1970 British and the 1981 Polish routes on the south face of Annapurna. They established Base Camp at 13,400 feet in the upper Modi Khola on August 28. They had ...
Montañas del Sol. Guía de Ascensiones a las Montañas del Ecuador. Freddy Landázuri, Iván Rojas and Marcos Serrano. Ediciones Campo Abierto, Quito, Ecuador, 1994. 148 pages, 32 black-and-white photographs, 12 line drawings and sketch maps.
Aconcagua, All-Women Ascents. The highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere had been ascended several times by women, some of whom perished by exhaustion or because of the dreaded blizzards, locally called viento bianco, or “white wind.” The firs...
Pik Alexander Blok, Stairway to Hell. In August, we made an ascent of a Russian 6B route on Pik Alexander Blok (5239 m). We camped under the formation and examined the blank, southwest face. Disappearing in a granite ocean, a thin scar marked the ...
SLIP ON SNOW and AVALANCHEWashington, Mount ShuksanOn June 30, 1982, Clint Kelley (69), former climbing chairman of The Mountaineers, fell to his death while ascending Mount Shuksan with a group of ten Mountaineers. In a separate accident on the s...
Mustagh Ata. In September John Amatt, leader, Lloyd Gallagher, Pat Morrow and I journeyed to the western flank of Mustagh Ata. We ascended the broad “writing-desk” slopes, choosing a route one glacier system south of that climbed in 1980 by Ned Gi...
Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988. On September 5, 1988, I climbed this new route. I started at the high point of the snowfield between the main and northeast peaks of Dumbbell where an obvious steep, narrow gully divides the smooth faces. I...
Devachan. Devachan (6187 meters, 20,300 feet) was climbed on June 2 by a 39-member team from the Indian National Cadet Corps. On the way down to Base Camp Satyajit De, Shankar Tahkuti and Mohammad Shafi got separated from the main body in a blizza...
Colorado, Parnassus Peak. On 7 September a group from the Colorado Mountain Club was ascending Parnassus Peak, an above timberline climb. They were aware of a storm in the distance, and some of the group turned back about 500 feet below the summit...
ILLNESS, IMPROPER RAPPEL PROCEDURE, FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Snowpatch SpireOn August 8, 1988, Bruce MacNab (24) and Martin Condor left the Conrad Kain Hut to climb the Southeast Corner route on Snowpatch Spire (Grade IV, ...
DEBORAH MARSHALL1965-1996I met Debbie when she joined the Annapurna IV 1996 Memory Climb in the fall of 1995 at an organizational meeting at my house with her son Zach. I was very impressed that this woman considered climbing mountains so importan...
Supplemental Notes on Early American AscentsMontanvert. One of the first American women to visit Chamonix was Fanny W. Hall, whose Rambles in Europe in 1836 appeared in two volumes (New York, 1836). Her excursion to the Mer de Glace was facilitate...
Vasiliki Tower, South Face Direct, Wine Spires. This is a two- or three-pitch, well protected climb (5.9). We started at the col between Vasiliki and Burgundy Spires with scrambling to a rightward-trending dihedral system below the south face. Ins...
Mount Adams, White Salmon Glacier. This new route was completed on the west side of the peak on July 3 by George Fraser, James Kurtz, Lex Maxwell, Robert Swenson, Dr. Ralph Uber and Louis Ulrich. The ascent started after an approximate two-mile tr...
ROCKFALL FROM PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Abbott's PassOn July 6, JPL was approaching Abbot’s Pass hut from the Lake O’Hara side when a party above kicked off a very large loose rock (approximately 1.5 metres by one metre)...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempts and Tragedy. A Pakistani Army expedition was high above the Gasherbrum La, following the Japanese couloir. Four members were trying to establish Camp III above 7000 meters when one of them became ill and another...
Cordillera Apolobamba. To the east of Lake Titicaca not far from Ulla Ulla, Werner Karl, Hans Wimmer, and Hans Richter, of the Berchtesgaden section of the Deutscher Alpenverein, explored and climbed for five weeks in the little-known Cordillera A...
Amin Brakk, New Route. Juan Miranda and I arrived in Islamabad on June 3 with the intention of climbing a new route on the 1300-meter west face of Amin Brakk (5850m). We established Base Camp on the Changma Glacier at 4300 meters. Our idea was to ...
Everest Funeral Expedition. As noted above, on May 26 five Polish mountaineers were killed in a tragic avalanche accident. In the late autumn, a special burial expedition was arranged by the Polski Zwiazek Alpinismu (Polish Alpine Association). On...