K2, Ascent and Tragedy. In late May, the American team of Rob Slater, Scott Johnston, Jack Roberts, Richard Celsi and Michael Toubbeh arrived in Pakistan and proceeded via the Karakoram highway to Skardu and then on to K2 Base Camp. The remainder ...
Nupchu. Nupchu (23,059 feet) is located 18 miles northwest of Kangchenjunga on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The first but unsuccessful attempt to climb the peak was made by a Swiss expedition in 1949 from the Tibetan side. (See Berge der Welt 19...
Wyoming—Wind River RangeSquare Top, East Face. The east face of Square Top soars some 3800 feet above the Green River. On September 2 Jerry Fuller and I packed heavy loads along the valley trail and then up a game path climbing steeply on a bushy ...
EquipmentModified Wide-Angle Pitons. Wide-angle pitons have been used to some extent in cracks up to two inches wide1—chiefly, owing to defects in design, in places where only minimum strength has been required. These wide-angle pitons were pointe...
“Pioneer Peaks,” W. Hamill (Toby) Group, Purcells. On August 2, 1969 Paul (4), Bruce and Freda Beck; Suzanne (10), David (12) and Hugh Ector; Kara (3 months), Curt and Gretchen Wagner got a ride from Argenta up an access road to the 6600-foot pass...
CALIFORNIA HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONWILLIAM W. DUNMIRE AND WILLIAM UNSOELDPart I: Preparations and the March to Base CampFive years ago the possibility of organizing an expedition to the Himalaya was but the remotest of dreams to the group of Californi...
Medical Aspects of the Austrian Alpine Club Expedition to Mount Everest. On May 9 while I was ascending, I met Messner and Habeler, the two “oxygenless” climbers, twenty-two hours after their success. Both were tired but otherwise on physical exam...
La Mascara, Cuerno Principal, Cuerno Este, and Cuerno Norte, Various Activity. In mid- January, 1998, Darrell Gschwendtner, John Merriam, Jonathan Copp, and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia with hopes of climbing new routes. Following an aborted at...
Attempt on Mount Blackburn. Ascent of Atna Peak. The Toyo University Expedition from Tokyo was led by Hiroichi Yamazaki and further composed of Hiromichi Tanabe, Katsumasa Aoki, Takehisa Shiono, Osamu Iwatake, Kiyoshige Seiryu and Kyoji Matsunaga....
Baruntse, East Ridge. Baruntse had been climbed by the Hillary expedition in 1954 by its south ridge. It was unsuccessfully attempted by French and Japanese in 1964. We made the second ascent by a new route, the east ridge. We flew to Tumlingtar a...
Cordillera Real, Various Activity. From July 5-July 19, a group of students and faculty from Appalachian State University’s Geography Department engaged in field studies and research on the Altiplano and in the northern Cordillera Real in Bolivia....
Lhotse. The world’s fourth-highest peak, 27,923-foot Lhotse, was first climbed by Swiss in 1956 and then by Germans in 1977. Our Austrian expedition was the third to ascend this difficult 8000er. Led by Erich Vanis, we were Hans Ladreiter, Ivan Ex...
Cerro Gorra Blanca and Volcán Lautaro, Patagonia. The Slovene-Argentine Expedition of the Club Andino Esloveno, Sección Buenos Aires, was led by Peter Skvarca and included Augusto Mengelle, Luciano Pera and Dr. Antonio Luis Beramendi. They set up ...
Mt. Barille, Northeast Pillar, Baked Alaskan. Eighteen-year-old Scotty Thelen and I left Valdez at noon on June 29 and raced to Talkeetna to catch Talkeetna Air Taxi into the Ruth Mountain House. The whole state had had a month of predominately cl...
As noted elsewhere in this Journal, Section member Mark Richey, with Steve Swenson and Doug Chabot, achieved the summit of Latok II (7,108m) in Pakistan in August, for the first time in alpine style. On a somewhat lesser scale, Nancy Savickas clim...
Last July Andy Sterns of Fairbanks and I made several ascents on a remote and spectacular chunk of granitic gneiss at the Glacial Lake headwaters. We flew in from Nome with Ben Rowe in a Bering Air helicopter to a base camp in the spectacular west...
Mount Blum. Distance and steep forest approaches have severely limited the ascents of this peak. On July 31, my brother Gordie, Steve Ollila, Eric Thorson and I climbed the north glacier and couloir. From a camp near the 5900-foot lake northwest o...
Gary Hemming: The Beatnik of the Alps. Mirella Tenderini (trans. Susan Hodgkiss). The Ernest Press, Glasgow, Scotland, 1995. 195 pages. £11.95.As the sub-title suggests, Gary Hemming was a climber of the 1950s and ’60s — my generation. He climbed ...
Mir Samir. Our expedition consisted of Hiroyuki Maruko, Yukitoshi Sato and myself as leader. Our first hope was to get permission from the Pakistani government for the Karakoram but we failed because of the sudden warfare between Pakistan and Indi...
Classic Rock, Compiled by Ken Wilson. New York: Granada Publishing Company, 1978. Many photographs and topos. Price $19.95.Classic Rock is a large-format book which chronicles fifty-five British rock climbs, none more difficult than Hard Severe (a...