Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The main activity of the school year is the operation of the climbing school. The course, which carries credit for physical education, introduces about 50 undergraduates to the fundamentals of mountaineering. This cl...
West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835') is just off of the Kahiltna Glacier, and every West Buttress ascensionist looks at its west ridge of as they make their home at Camp 1. It is the obvious ridge closest to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna and m...
Nepal Peak Attempt. Our French-Nepalese expedition had six French members, M. and Mme Ansart, S. Lazizi, Dr. F. Tanery, my wife and me, and three Nepalese, Chewang Rinzee Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa and Jambia Sherpa. We hoped to climb the virgin south ...
Cordillera Huaytapallana and Peak near Huagaruncho. Hiroshi Koizumi, Naoki Toda, Yoshikazu Koizumi and I left Huancayo on May 7 and reached Base Camp in the Huaytapallana quickly that day. The weather was bad and it rained almost every day. We cli...
Williams. In 1950 the Williams Outing Club has continued its mountaineering activities along the lines set in 1949. Several members climbed in Colorado and Wyoming, and in the Canadian Rockies. The Club has shown a film on rock climbing in the Alp...
Tongse Debi. An unnamed 20,000-foot peak was climbed on May 27 by an Indo-Bhutanese team led by Major D. N. Tankha. After leaving Wangduphudrang on May 1, they established Base Camp at 14,000 feet. The King of Bhutan has named the peak Tongse Debi...
Tawoche Attempt. Mal Duff, Tony Brindle, Adrian Moore and I established Base Camp at 5000 meters at the foot of the east face of Tawoche on April 10. The original plan for our line on the east face had to be abandoned due to a lack of snow and ice...
Tasermiut Fjord, Tininnertuup, northeast face, attempt. Sarah and Tony Whitehouse attempted a major variation to the unrepeated Rapakivi Road on the northeast face of Tininnertuup (1,725m), the 1,000m route (28 pitches,1,300m of climbing) put up i...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLING, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn addition to the above accident in the Gunks, there were 24 other reports, of which 17 are counted as climbing for purposes of this journal. Fourt...
Makalu II (Kangchungtse). The Chiba University expedition to Makalu II or Kangchungtse (25,066 feet) was led by Dr. Makoto Numata. After the planned west ridge route was abandoned, they turned to the south ridge via Makalu col. The highest camp wa...
El León, North Face, 1989-90. The Sierra de la Culata, which runs roughly east and west, lies north of the Andean city of Mérida. It contains the largest number of 4000-meter peaks in Venezuela. On December 11, 1989, I climbed solo Pico Mina de Hi...
In January 2009 Italians Giovanni Cristofori and Maria Cristina Rapisardi, a globetrotting couple from Milan who spend most of their free time sailing their sloop Billy Budd in Arctic or Antarctic seas, visited South Georgia with guides Luca Arg...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Mount RainierThis report was sent in by Lilly Toholske (29), who was climbing Mount Rainier with five friends on June 15,1987, when this accident occurred.On descent, I really w...
P 6309, North of Chaturangi Glacier. We reached Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on September 13, set up Advance Base at Vasuki Tal at 16,000 feet on the 18th and Camp I at 16,500 feet at the base of P 6309 on the 23rd. From Camp I we climbed...
Aguja Guillaumet, new route. Marcin Szczotka and Mariusz Nowak established a new route on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet, to the left of the Padrijo route, just right of Comesaña-Fon-rouge. The route was climbed onsight on February 13, 2004, at...
Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. This is one of two new routes done by parties attempting to find a route of Greenwood’s. The route that Jon Jones and I did in July is to the right of the McCarthy or normal rappel route. It follows a prominen...
Nevado de las Vírgines. Late in May, Bolivian Mario Miranda and Americans Stan Shepard and I probably made the first ascent of the Nevado de las Virgines, part of the Khori Chuma group, the southernmost of the granite peaks. This is a 5500-meter (...
MULTIPLE BEE STINGS California, Yosemite ValleyEarly in October, I was on the second belay ledge of a three pitch climb called “The Caverns” in Yosemite Valley’s Five Open Books area. My friend, Robin Supplee, was following up, cleaning the protec...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR PRACTICE – HOOKED FINGERS THROUGH BOLT RINGColorado, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Rethinking the EthicsRethinking the Ethics (5.10a) is a 45-foot, four-bolt sport climb located on the Ripple Wall. The climb culminates at a two-bo...
Fisher Towers. Betsi McKittrick, Jimmy Dunn and Peter Banfield climbed with a top rope Little Hoodoo (5.9+), near the Cobra Hoodoo. The Tapeworm on the south face of Echo Tower was climbed by Brian Warshaw and Brad Jarrett (5.8, A3, 6 pitches).Eri...