Moose’s Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred, Various Ascents. In May, the Shaken Not Stirred route on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth received its second, third, and fourth ascents over the course of three days. Kelly Cordes and Scott DeCapio, Topher an...
Lotus Flower Tower. On July 2 Mark Wagner, Doug Feil, Mark Hendrix and I flew to Glacier Lake and soon were established in Tombstone Meadows. Poor weather kept us on the ground for several days. Finally a half-clearing allowed Hendrix and me an un...
West Bell Tower. These towers of excellent granite are three miles up Bells Canyon near Salt Lake City. On September 29, Larry Evans, Dick Ream* and Fred Beckey started a route on the West Bell Tower. They climbed the first two leads, mostly direc...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, Gary Price (22), Mark Hasson, Barry Thomas, and Ethan Rathburn were climbing the East Couloir route on Disappointment Peak. After reaching the summit, the party began its descent by the...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Table Rock Mountain, Helmet ButtressTwo climbers a male, B. D. (26) and female, JD (20s) were attempting Helmet Buttress (5.6) on September 2. J. D. was belaying B. D. on the first pitc...
K2, North Ridge Attempt. On June 11, Heinz Wohlweind, Hans Stegmeier, Reinhard Vlasich, Elisabeth Vlasich, Peter Kowalzik (leader) and I met in Beijing to climb the north ridge of K2 (on an IMC commercial expedition from Germany — Ed.). On June 14...
Aguja Nevada, Cordillera Blanca. An Italian expedition, sponsored by the Monza section of the Club Alpino Italiano, was led by Giancarlo Frigieri and composed of Gianni Arcari, Ferdinando Nusdeo, Carlo Casati, Angelo Pizzoccolo and Vasco Taldo. Ba...
Mount McKinley, South Face, New Route. From May 13 to 23 we climbed a new route on the south face of Mount McKinley to the right of the Cassin Ridge. Ján Špakula, František Adamík and Ervin Velic helped Tono Križo, František Korl and me from Base ...
Lampak and P 20,751. A 12-man expedition of the Rajputana Rifles and the Rajputana Regiment consisted of four officers and eight jawans. It was led by Colonel Prem Lal Kukrety. On September 20 they reached the summit of virgin P 20,751 at nine A.M...
Yosemite Point, Chouinard Route, variation. Sheldon Smith and Jim Erickson on August 12, climbed an F9 variant of the difficult Chouinard Route. They began their climb left of the Chouinard route on the left side of the prominent 150-foot pillar o...
Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Moroni. The Road to Cumorah (IV 5.11 Cl) begins at the far east end of the of the southwest face. We started in a short, clean, left-c...
HAPE, HACE, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1813 on May 27, Joshua Wax (28), a solo climber experiencing symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), was evacuated by helicopter fr...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. This is a new Section of members living in Maryland, portions of North Carolina and Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia and the District of Columbia. In October 1976 at an informal meeting in Washington D.C. members a...
Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 3, after being stopped the previous day, Rich Romano led through the large overhangs 50 feet to the right of our 1987 route. A pitch higher in a big alcove, we crossed left of the other route, then ...
Special Olympics, south ridge. My wife Anna Liljedahl, Andy Stern, and I flew into the Hayes Range from the Denali Highway with Gracious Air on June 8. The short, relatively inexpensive flight landed us on a fish-filled pristine lake a day’s hike ...
FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, UNROPEDAlberta, Waterdog, North D'art Area, ObliterationOn November 13, B.P. and T.M. were approaching the ice climb Obliteration (30 metre WI4) in the North Drywood area between Waterton Nati...
Dhaulagiri Ski Attempt. (See also account immediately above.) The Franco-Swiss expedition led by Sylvain Saudan had been given permission for the northwest ridge but moved onto the northeast ridge, the Spanish route. On the night of May 13 two mem...
Merced Peak, North Face. In early July, Mary Bomba and I made the first ascent of this face. In the middle of the face an obvious ramp diagonals up and right. We climbed to the bottom of the ramp over some loose F7, then ascended the poorly protec...
The Tetons: Interpretations of a Mountain Landscape, by Fritiof Fryxell. Berkeley, Calif. : University of California Press, 1938. $1.50.Once more we have a book on the Tetons by one of the best informed students of the geology and climbing history...
Aconcagua, First Female Ascent of the South Face. In January my wife Titoune and I climbed the south face of Aconcagua by the French route, using the Messner finish. This is a superb climb on a par with great classics like the Eiger North Face, El...