Pamiagdluk East, first ascents and repeats. During two weeks of perfect weather in the second half of August Daniela and Hans-Jochen Hägele with Andreas and Sandra Holle repeated several of the routes put up by the 1994 Bayerland and 1996 Freising...
Cathedral. Six of eight Japanese led by Keishi Saito reached the summit of Cathedral (6400 meters, 20,998 feet) by the north ridge on September 1 and 2. Base Camp was placed at the tongue of the Bara Shigri Glacier on August 12. Advance Base, and ...
A New Ascent in the Hayes RangeBenjamin Greeley Ferris, Jr.COMING up on the boat to climb Mt. Hayes, we had a chance to study a picture of the second highest summit of the Alaska Range E. of Mt. McKinley, a peak about 13,000 ft., lying nearly 10 m...
General information. Unseasonably early snowfall arrived late in the climbing season, substantially increasing the avalanche risk. Local guides say the climbing season is moving earlier each year. Last year the weather was almost continuously bad ...
The Book of ShadowsThe first ascent of the north face of the Trango Nameless Towerby ERIC BRANDWhen I finally crossed out of Pakistani air space on my way to Bangkok, I was overcome with relief. Our team had completed the first ascent of the north...
Ak-Su, Various Ascents and Terrorist Activity. The members of our expedition were Robert Lange, Stefan Hiermaier, Radan Svec, Michael Meyer, Lutz Wenzel, and Roland Lämmermann. Before we had our “little” terrorist experience, we climbed several ro...
FALLING ROCK HITS CLIMBER–DESPITE DOING ALL THE RIGHT THINGSWashington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment CleaverOn July 29, Estee Fernandez (29) was descending the base of the Disappointment Cleaver with her partner when a two-foot diameter rock hit ...
Central Chile. The most important recent ascent in the central Chilean Cordillera was that of Juncal Chico (18,767 feet), which for some time has been the highest yet-unclimbed peak. After establishing camps at 14,000 and 17,000 feet, on January 1...
Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge. Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1983. 132 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps, bibliography. £10.95.Chris Bonington’s latest expedition account, Everest: The Unclimbed ...
North Tower of Paine, Los Esclavos del Barometro and other ascents. On December 31 Tina DiBatista and I (Slovenians) climbed a new route to the North Summit of the North Tower of Paine. We climbed a beautiful crack line to the right of the route A...
Eiger Direct, the John Harlin RouteChristian Bonington, Alpine ClubTHE term “last great problem” must be one of the most over-used clichés in mountaineering talk or literature. In recent times a new “last great problem” has been found, attempted a...
Mountain Rescue Council, Seattle, Washington. Numerous American Alpine Club members were active as leaders and members in the Mountain Rescue Council, during the past year. This organization, born in Seattle, Washington, about 1947, has since beco...
Sierra Club Ruwenzori Expedition. (Although this group made no first ascents, it is included here because the region has not been visited often by Americans.—Editor.) On this fifth in a series of informal expeditions sponsored by the Outing Commit...
The Himalayan Schoolhouse ExpeditionDavid B. DornanThe Aid ProgramThis expedition of 1963 was a continuation of the scientific, educational and mountaineering activities begun in 1960-61 by Sir Edmund Hillary, sponsored by the World Book Encyclope...
Himlung Himal Winter Attempt. British climbers led by Richard Emerson attempted to climb Himlung Himal (7126 meters, 23,379 feet) by a western spur to gain the south ridge. They were able to get to 6050 meters on December 19.Elizabeth Hawley
Mustagh Ata, Gasherbrum II, and Other Activity in the Chinese Karakoram. Our expedition was co-led by Daniel Mazur and Jonathan Otto. On June 29, we set out from Kathmandu, Nepal, to Islamabad, Pakistan, across India by rail with 600 kilograms of ...
FALL ON ROCK – BELAY FAILURE, NO STOPPER KNOT, DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 8, Nicolas Lebaut (29) and Davina Borrow-Jones (32) were climbing at the base of the Southwest Face of El Capitan. Nicolas decided to lead ...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On Wednesday, January 27, 1954, Phillip Longnecker (25) and Jacques Parysko (23) graduate students at Harvard University, but not members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, built an igloo for a campsite at the foot o...
Mount Vaughan Attempt, Queen Maud Mountains. From 1928 to 1930, Norman D. Vaughan was a member of Admiral Richard E. Byrd’s first Antarctic Expedition. In 1929, under the leadership of Dr. Laurence Gould, a party made a long geological sledge rout...
Jambeyang, Attempt. Jambeyang, throne to the Bodhisattva of learning, stands at the head of the Duron Valley. This unclimbed pyramid shares the idyllic valley with two other stand-alone peaks, Xiangre Ri and Chondorjie. Located in the far southwes...