Avalanche, a novel by Kay Boyle. 8vo., 209 pages. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1944. Price $2.50.Avalanche has been widely heralded as a story of the French underground in the mountains of the Haute Savoie, by a writer who knows that region intim...
Canada, Various Ice Ascents. In Bridge River, B.C., Kevin Normoyle and Quang-Taun Luong put up The Theft (V WI6R), an 800-foot route climbed in six pitches (5+R, 5R, 4, 5+, 6, 5). In Banff, Dave Thompson and Karen McNeil established Deadeye Dick (...
Urkinmang, Jugal Himal. An expedition of five Japanese and three Sherpas made a new route and fifth ascent of Urkinmang (6151 meters, 20,180 feet) climbing the north face to the north ridge. They pitched one high camp at 5400 meters and fixed 2000...
Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest. Tashi Tenzing, with Judy Tenzing. Forewords by Sir Edmund Hillary and His Holiness The Dalai Lama. Camden, Maine: Ragged Mountain-McGraw-Hill, 2001.294 pages, more than 100 black-and-white photos. $26.00....
One Step in the Clouds: An Omnibus of Mountaineering Novels and Short Stories. Compiled by Audrey Salkeld and Rosie Smith. Diadem, London. £16.95; Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1990. 1056 pages. $25.00.The compilers of this enormous volume seek to r...
From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Ox expeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I embarked on the ultimate challenges of a solo expedition, to get back to a relationship with myself that I can only find while going alo...
The past year and a half has marked an exciting period of growth for the Himalayan Cataract Project and has furthered our mission of eliminating preventable and treatable blindness in mountainous Asia. We are making the transition from being an or...
Mount Battle Solo. I climbed Mount Battle (4420 feet) solo to photograph the peaks and glaciers around the Pangnirtung Pass. It is surrounded by the Rundle Glacier on the east, the Highway Glacier on the north and the Turner Glacier on the west. T...
Half Dome, The Long Walk. In the fall of 1999, Bryan Law and I fixed two new pitches on the northwest face of Half Dome but were unable to continue due to various delays and other obligations. I returned to the project alone in August. The fixed l...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, Palisade GlacierJohn Norton (16), Marta Rauch (16) and Greg Lewis (25) ascended the arete to the right of Clyde’s Couloir and were traversing left across the couloir to the snowfield on No...
Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan. In early August, Albert W. Nickerson (22) was a member of a party climbing on the east ridge of Mt. Logan. His footwear consisted of Gerry insulated overboots over heavy leather climbing boots. These boots were a bit sh...
International Alpine Solidarity Award. AAC Member Daryl Miller was presented with the Silver Plaque of the International Alpine Solidarity Award by the guides of Pinzolo, Italy. This award honored Miller for rescues performed during his work as a ...
FALL ON ICE, INATTENTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Professor FallsOn March 20, after instructing an ice climbing session on this popular Grade 4 ice climb, J.M. tripped on easy terrain while descending to the second rappel. He fell over a six m...
P 11,091, P 10,300 and P 9810, Eldridge Glacier. Our expedition was composed of mountain guides: Bruno Musi, Giorgio Passino, Giuseppe Cheney, Eliseo Cheney, Henry Truchet and me as leader. We set up Base Camp on May 29 on the north fork of the El...
Dorje Lhakpa, West Ridge, Attempt. It was our objective to climb Dorje Lhakpa (6966 m) by the west ridge. Ours was the first British attempt. We approached from the Jugalrnal side in the south. Dorje Lhakpa can only be climbed as a joint Nepalese ...
Annapurna Tragedy. A French expedition led by Jean-Paul Vion attempted the unclimbed northwest buttress of Annapurna. On September 26 André Durieux and Roland Girod-Roux reached 24,275 feet, above Camp IV at 23,450 feet. The expedition was abandon...
Aconcagua: a Climbing Guide. R.J. Secor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 144 pages, 48 black-and-white photographs, 12 line drawings and sketch maps. Paper. $15.95.Although several Aconcagua guidebooks have been published in Spain and Argentina, ...
El Toro, West Side. On September 2, 1981, at the end of the southern winter, twelve Santiago climbers including two women, under the direction of Claudio Lucero, made the first ascent in modem times of the west side of Cerro El Toro (6386 meters, ...
Schurovkovo Glacier, Various Ascents. It was reported that Hugh Nicholson, Peter Crampton, Alison Douglass, Peter Garlick and Paul Hersey (NZ) traveled to the Schurovkovo Glacier* in Kyrgyzstan in July and August. During their stay they made ascen...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierAbout 2130 on June 6, 1982, John Davis (41) reported to Ranger Garry Olson at Paradise that he and two other climbers had been involved in a climbing accident on the Fuhrer Finger. Davis’ rope team had attempted t...