STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Second FlatironOn September 4, rescuers were dispatched to the Second Flatiron on a report of a stranded climber. Noah Gershon (20) was located on a near vertical edge of the “Pullman Car,” a...
Syurenfen Attempt, Tien Shan. Our expedition, composed of Junichi Sinozaki, Yuji Kato, Masato Kameda, Susumi Takagishi, Toshikazu Yokosawa and me as leader, hoped to climb the southeast ridge of Syurenfen (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), which lies due...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, “ATTITUDE”California, Joshua Tree National Monument, Feudal WallOn March 12,1993, a male climber (early 20s) was leading Coyote in the Bushes (5.10a) on Feudal Wall above campsite 7. He was belay...
No. 13: Adam Lebwald, Damographia oder Gemsen- Beschrcibung. 8 vo., pp. 56, with illustrations. A facsimile of a seventeenth-century black-letter book, containing quaint description of the habits of the chamois and the story of Maximilian’s advent...
Lhotse Middle, first ascent. The most impressive all of accomplishments in the spring was the first ascent of Lhotse Middle (8413m), which although not exactly a mountain in its own right, stands only 50 meters lower than Makalu and was widely rec...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Descent. On July 1, South Tirolean Hans Kammerlander and Swiss Diego Wellig reached the summit of Nanga Parbat and from about 100 vertical feet below the summit began a ski descent which they continued to Base Camp except where i...
FALLING ROCK AND FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain. On July 16, 1975, a party of eight army cadets and their platoon commander were on a one-day hike up the SW ridge of Cascade Mountain, reaching it by its NW branc...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—LEADER AND RELAYER, DEHYDRATION/FATIGUEOntario, Ron Echo Provincial Park, “Ottawa” RouteOn September 4, J. N.(47) was leading the second pitch of “Ottawa” (5.7), belayed by M. C.(22), when he fell while attempti...
Dorje Lhakpa. A 3-man Japanese expedition to Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) completed the 9th ascent of the peak on October 13 when leader Sachi Takano, Masayuki Harada and Pasang Sherpa reached the top via the west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Shisha Pangma Central Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition to Shisha Pangma without supplementary oxygen or Sherpas was composed of Dave McNally, leader, Mack Ellerby, Tod Gassen, Bruce Hennessey, Ted Handwerk, Peter Nichols and me. New Zealander Si...
Manaslu, Ascent. Italian Sergio Martini on September 27 summited Manaslu, at 8,163 meters the world’s eighth highest mountain, via its standard northeast-face route, thereby gaining his twelfth 8000-meter summit. He now has just two more of these ...
Yosemite Valley, 1985. Following is a partial list of new routes done in the Valley during 1985. On the wall scene, climbers continued to be active on El Capitan. Bill Russell and Doug McDonald climbed Mr. Midwest, which starts left of the West Fa...
Kangtega Attempt. An American expedition led by Steven Brimmer was composed of four climbers, a base-camp manager and a doctor. They attempted the south face with no high camps above the 16,500-foot Base Camp. They got to the top of the icefall at...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. A five-man team from New Zealand led by Geoffrey Gabites, set up Base Camp and Camp I at 4575 and 5430 meters on November 27 and December 1. They climbed up to 6100 meters via the southwest ridge, but on December 14 cal...
Renard Tower, Hart am Wind. It was reported that Stefan Glowacz, Hoger Heuber, Kurt Albert, Jürgen Knappe, Hans Martin Götz and Gerhard Hiedorn established Hart am Wind (5.12c, 800m) on the Renard Tower. The 17-pitch was climbed over three days; a...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Colorado, FlatironsOn May 12, 1986, a female (15) slipped and fell while cimbing the second Flatiron in Boulder with her father. Unexpected rainfall had apparently made the rock slippery enough to cause the girl...
Mexico: (3) Popocatepetl volcano. On 15 October 1950 two deaths and 10 serious and several hundred minor accidents occurred to mountain enthusiasts who had turned out for the celebration of the International Mountain Climbers Fraternity. This was ...
Torre Central de Paine, East Face, “Riders on the Storm" Route 1990-1991. We climbed a new route on the central part of the east face of the Central Paine Tower. The wall is about 1300 meters high with excellent quality, vertical, compact granite...
Mount MacDonald, Little Face. My cousin Alan Dane Waterman and I made a new route on the Little (east) Face of Mount MacDonald, some five miles east of Rogers Pass, which finished on a shoulder of the mountain (climbed a day later to the summit by...
Development of the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, and Khan Tengri, Attempt. Anatoli Boukreev was one of the great high-altitude climbers of modem times. His prolific career bridged the apex of Soviet mountaineering, its disintegration with the US...