Latok IV, Attempt. Motomu Omiya and Tsuguo Tsuchida (Japan) attempted the south ridge of Latok IV*. The pair arrived at Base Camp on August 4. They reached their high point of ca. 5700 meters at 2 a.m. on August 14. Heavy snow and a lack of time s...
Ama Dablam. A French commercial expedition climbed Ama Dablam by the normal southwest ridge. The summit was reached on December 4 by leader Marc Batard, Roger Laot, Jacques Buret, Michel Coutty, Daniel Filliol, Jean François Louys and Sherpas Kami...
Fortress Mountain, East Face, Fryatt Group, 1988. On August 24, 1988, Jon Turk and I climbed a 15-pitch rock route on the tower which comprises the east face of Fortress Mountain. We approached by hiking from Sunwapta Falls up the Athabasca River,...
As reported on www.planetmountain.com and elsewhere, in January Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr climbed a new line near the east-facing cleft between Torre Central and Torre Norte. Waiting for Godot (750m, 7b M6) ends at the col between th...
FALLS ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksOf the 26 accidents which occurred from falls in this climbing area, most occurred to leaders. The three which happened to following climbers did not result in serious injury, but one could have, in that the young...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ROPE UNDER LEG, FATIGUEOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Five Gallon BucketsOn October 29, Matt Amling (21) of Portland traveled to Smith Rock State Park with his climbing class from a Willamette Valley Community College. The c...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A French expedition of four had hoped to make a ski descent of Dhaulagiri II. They say they were actually on the northwest ridge, although they approached from the south and east. Leader Benoît Chamoux and Georges Sichap rea...
Citta di Rieti, first ascent. In January 2002 Italians Eliano Pessa and Arnaldo Milesmi, with Argentinean Patricio Cardù (Argentinean Federico Aguero Varela was the expedition’s chief but did not summit), made a first ascent of a virgin mountain n...
Utah: Zion National Park. A concessioner employee was killed in a fall over a cliff on Deer Trap Mountain. He and two other companions were returning from a trip in the back country during which they tried to scale the canyon cliffs.Source of info...
Petrie and Peaks at the Headwaters of Ovington Creek, Hart Ranges. From August 1 to 8, the British Columbia Mountaineering Club organized a climbing camp in the Hart Ranges of British Columbia’s northern Rocky Mountains. Eleven climbers were helic...
FALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLO, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 20, 1989, a friend and I (33) made a one day trip to Joshua Tree. After leading three climbs rated 5.9 or better, I led the roof of “Hobbit Roof.” Af...
Broad Peak, 1985. In A.A.J., 1986 on page 277, a portion of the account written by Sadao Tambe was omitted, telling of the second part of the expedition when six of their members climbed to the summit of Broad Peak. On August 12 one group bivouack...
On April 25, 1991, Klass Wierenga (27), Frank De Vos (26), Frank Kleinbekman, and Matthijs Wiggers of the Dutch Mount Foraker Expedition were climbing near the 8000 foot level on the 1974 Variation of the Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. At a poi...
Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks. Kotaru Nakajima, Shinischi Kohara and I had permission to climb Disteghil Sar from the Malangutti Glacier. We placed Base Camp at 3600 meters on the Malangutti Glacier on June 6. Aft...
Baralacha Peak (6111 m), second ascent. This peak close to the Baralacha Pass received a second ascent on September 5 by three members from an Indian team led by Ms. Kalpana Mekherjee. The leader with Taponayan Ghosh and Partha Majumdar reached th...
Trisul Attempt. Charlie Winger, Laura Zaruba, Clay Hutchison, Kim Knox and I attempted to climb the west face of Trisul. Our high point was reached on September 30 when Hutchison and I established Camp IV at 6700 meters at the end of technical dif...
Rock Climbing in France: Locations and Descriptions of 279 Crags. Jean-Pierre Bouvier. Diadem Books, London, 1984. 72 pages, maps. £4.95.My grandmother (and probably yours too) always said, “There’s a place for everything and everything in its pla...
Schweizer Trachtenbuch, by Louise Witzig. 8vo., 280 pages with 60 plates from color photos and 200 illustrations (sketches and photos) in black and white. Zürich: Schweizerische Trachtenvereinigung, 1954. Price, Sw. fr. 38.The four-volume Volkstra...
Mandaras Valley and Zebak Area. An expedition of the Klub Tatrzanski PTTK Krakow, led by Jerzy Wala, climbed first in the Mandaras valley. They made the following ascents: M 3b (19,417 feet; a mile northwest of M 5) on August 10 by A. Gorski, E. B...
Annapurna IV, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. There were three successful ascents of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) and one unsuccessful one, all by the northwest ridge. An expedition of six South Koreans under the leadership of Goo Hwa...