Appalachian Mountain Club. Much executive and staff planning work has been done during the past year toward meeting the great demands being placed on the public service facilities and services of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Our membership reach...
Eastern Ranges, Central Peru. This tract of country is especially ill-famed for grass and bush fires during the dry season. Visibility is so much reduced by the incessant smoke that I visited these mountains at another time of the year whenever po...
Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, first ascent. Andy Martin, while searching topo maps for high points, discovered that the second highest butte in the Canyon was an unnamed, unclimbed redwall butte in the far west end of the Grand Canyon. He told m...
For the past two years fellow Diamond lover Eric Doub had been calling and sending topos of a possible 5.13 on the Diamond of Long’s Peak. He’d put considerable work into the project, which he’d named The Honeymoon is Over. He told me of clean, st...
Dhaulagiri I, Southeast Ridge. The extraordinarily difficult southeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, attempted unsuccessfully by the American party in 1973, was climbed by Japanese but at a high cost in lives. The 18-man party was led by Seiko Tanaka. On S...
Antarctica, Various Ascents. From December 3,1997 to January 19, 1998,I was in Antarctica, providing light service and ground support for scientific and recreational expeditions for Adventure Network International (ANI). During that time, I was in...
Foraker. Our expedition to Foraker via the west ridge consisted of Mark Dale, Juan Esteban Lira, John Mason and me. Foraker was first ascended in August 1934 by the west ridge with an approach via the Foraker Glacier. The second ascent of the west...
Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld. On January 9 I experienced the most crushing and empowering day of my life, sitting by my mother’s side as she took her last breaths. One of the last things she said to me as we held each ...
Annapurna II Tragedy. A six-man Japanese expedition was attempting to climb the north face of Annapurna II. While descending on April 26 from 22,650-foot Camp IV, the leader Ikuo Tanabe slipped and fell some 50 feet, severely injuring himself. Alt...
Escudo, North Ridge, Previously Unreported. Ralph Thäusing and I climbed the North Ridge of Escudo in March, 1993. It had already been climbed by Jerry Gore and Andy Perkins three months before (see 1993 AAJ, p. 197); however, we didn’t know this....
Commissioner Buttress. Ranger Rock, or Manure Pile Buttress as it is more commonly known, is frequented for its fine low-angle face climbs such as After Six and Nutcracker Sweet. In March, Joe Faint and I climbed a steep buttress about 500 feet to...
Annapurna 11 Attempt. The aim of the expedition was to make the fourth ascent of the mountain, but doing it alpine-style with a team of three, Alan and Adrian Burgess and me. After a nine-day walk-in, we arrived at 11,500 feet, where our Base Camp...
Bhrikuti, North Summit, Tehachang and. P 6300. Damodar Himal. Seldom-visited Mustang is separated from Tibet by the Mustang Himal and the Damodar Himal. Though most applications have been refused, the Österreichische Himalaya Gesellschaft (Austria...
Peaks above Durung Drung Glacier, Zanskar Range. Our Italian expedition was composed of 14 men and three women. After a day and a half by truck from Kargil to the Pensila Pass, we placed Base Camp on July 30 at 13,900 feet on the 15-mile-long glac...
Climbing in the Adirondacks. Don Mellor. Adirondack Mountain Club. Black-and-white photos, maps. 460 pages. $24.95.Comment: The Third Edition is roughly 200 pages fatter than the last (1989) and incorporates some of the latest firsts from such loc...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. During 1965 the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club continued its basic activities of running trips and providing instruction in rock and ice climbing. This year saw an improvement in the caliber of the club’s climbing as ...
Pamirs and Tian Shan, 1969. Excellent summaries of climbing in the Soviet Union are found in the Alpine Journal, 1970 on pages 159 to 162 and in Alpinismus of February, 1970. Among other difficult new climbs described there, we mention the followi...
Huayna Potosí. Michiko Sekita, Fusako Shimizu and Masako Abe, all women, climbed in the Cordillera Real. For acclimatization, on June 18 they all climbed a nameless 17,400-foot peak, attempted Wila Llojeta (17,205 feet) the next day and on the 22n...
Huandoy Sur, South Face and East Ridge. An Italian-French-Belgian group made a new route on Huandoy Sur from August 14 to 17. The climbers were P. Jongan, M. Massenat, G. Theilou and G. Sterna. The extremely difficult rock on the eastern end of th...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—OLD PITONUtah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Gate ButtressOn November 19, “Mike” (44) fell while leading the second pitch of Perhaps, a two-pitch 5.7 route at the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The end o...