How the English Made the Alps. Jim Ring. London: John Murray, 2000. 16 pages of black- and-white photos. 298 pages. £19.99.

Trisul. A number of expeditions have climbed Trisul since the relaxation of the Inner Line restrictions. On May 17 Germans Martin Biock and Lothar Büttner reached the summit and skied back down. On May 20 they were followed by three climbers from ...

Austrian Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca. Under the leadership of Hannes Gasser, the Austrians entered the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca. Albert Zangerl came down with pneumonia and had to be evacuated to Lima. From a 16,750-foot camp,...

New Hampshire, Mt. Kearsarge—On May 13, 1956 James Moore (20) slipped on ice about a quarter of a mile from the summit of Mt. Kearsarge. He suffered a dislocated right shoulder. He was accompanied by three companions.Source: Newspaper clipping and...

Xuebao Ding, Sichuan. The first ascent of Xuebao Ding (5588 meters, 18,334 feet) was made by an expedition of the Himalayan Association of Japan led by Kunimitsu Sakai. After reaching Base Camp on August 5, they climbed the south ridge. On August ...

Mount Hunter, Southeast Spur of South Face. Our expedition was composed of Lincoln Stoller, William Nicholson,* David M. Sweet and me.* We succeeded in climbing about one-third of the ridge before acknowledging defeat. The decision to withdraw was...

Schoolboys in the Chinese Pamir. Our expedition from Aldenham School approached the Karakol Lakes in China via the Karakoram Highway from Rawalpindi in Pakistan. Although the hiring agreement was for 12 days, the camels deserted us at Atkash, abou...

Austerity Mountain. On July 27 Corky Matthews, David Michael, George Bell, Moses Goddard, Rob Wallace and myself went up from Fairy Meadow. Our route was a variation of the 1948 route of Sterling Hendricks, but because of the exceptional snow cond...

Gasherbrum IV, Solo East Face Attempt. Having traveled to Base Camp with the Japanese expedition led by Hirofumi Konishi, Yasushi Yamanoi began solo on July 6 at night to climb the east face of Gasherbrum IV. In the icefall below the Italian col, ...

San Lorenzo Ascents. We, a team of three Germans (Sebastian Thallo, Lorem Konastand and I) reached the top of San Lorenzo by the Agostini route on January 21. One week later Sebastian Thallo and I made the third ascent from the east ridge (South A...

Dragontail, Backbone Ridge. John Bonneville and I did this ridge to the left of the white slabs on the northwest face in August. We started at the lowest point on the ridge and after two leads traversed right 150 feet. Go up a layback (F9) to a sh...

Asgard, East Face, Baffin Island. Ian Parsons and I repeated the 1972 route on the east face of Asgard. We climbed the 4000-foot face on July 16 to 18 in very variable weather. We were forced to bivouac in bad weather below the start of the face, ...

Illampu and Illimani, Cordillera Real. Active this year were Yugoslav, Mexican and Japanese expeditions as well as the "International Expedition,” which the writer accompanied to Illampu (20,873 feet), in an attempt to make its third ascent. Inter...

Torre de Cristal, South Face. The Japanese Saburo Mizobuchi, Tetsuo Nagashino and Moritaka Yoda climbed a fine new route on the Torre de Cristal (18,140 feet), reaching the summit on July 25, 1976. They fixed rope on the lower 800 feet of the sout...

Ape Lake, Monarch Icefield Area. From June 18 to July 8 Erin Corey, Anson “Ace” Moore, Eleen Baumann, and I made several new climbs in this area. From camps on the icefield we ascended Erehwon by the east ridge and Dagon’s south face on good rock....

Thunder Mountain, Attempt and Air Time. On May 12, Jim Donini and I flew into the Tokositna Glacier to attempt a route on the south side of Thunder Mountain. The climb, which splits two huge rock buttresses, is a 3,000-foot alpine gully capped wit...

Proceedings, symposia on Arctic Biology and Medicine: v. Nutritional Requirements for Survival in the Cold and at Altitude, Vaughan, Lucile A., Editor. Arctic Aero-medical Laboratory, Fort Wainwright, Alaska; 363 pages, 1965.This book contains the...

Hopkins Valley region summary. Exceeding the Aoraki Mt. Cook area for new routes, this accessible area continues to receive attention from a handful of motivated climbers. In the 2004 New Zealand Alpine Journal (NZAJ) Ross Cullen (guidebook author...

Mount Shuksan, North Rib. Mount Shuksan’s north rib located between the north face route and the northeast Price Glacier route was first climbed by John Holland, Steve Marts, Jerry Feucht, and me. The common approach for north face routes was used...

California, Yosemite National Park (2)— On the morning of August 25, William Amborn, an experienced rock climber, and James Ware (22) a climber of intermediate experience, set out to climb Sunnyside Bench. The climb is one of moderate difficulty a...