LOOSE BLOCK PULLED OFF – FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn August 9, a party of three was intending to climb the Buckingham Ridge on the Middle Teton. They were ascending the fourth-class approach slabs, unroped, when ...
Himalayan Assignment, by F. Van Wyck Mason. 282 pages, with sketch map end-paper. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday and Co., 1952. Price, $3.00.This is a lurid tale of a political mission to darkest Jonkhar (between Nepal and Tibet) by a strong, silen...
WILLIAM E. “SMOKE” BLANCHARD1915-1989It was a windy spring evening in the Owens Valley when James Wilson came striding toward me with that look, the “you never want to see” look, on his face. Smoke had been fatally injured in an automobile acciden...
The Moose’s Tooth, South Face, Shaken, Not Stirred. Jim Donini and I did a new route on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth at the end of May, an ice route that heads directly to Englishman’s Col. 50 Classic Climbs of North America has a good phot...
AAC, New England Section. Our Section continues to grow, and in 2002 membership increased to 510 from 486 in 2001. Eighty people attended our Seventh Annual New England Section black tie event. We brought our Henderson Film Fund to $4,000, enough ...
From mid-August to mid-September Mike Morrison, Paul Ramsden, Rob Smith, and I visited the north side of the Xuelian Range. This area had been visited twice before by mountaineering trips, both led by Bruce Normand; it is where Bruce, Jed Br...
BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, NO EXPERIENCE Washington, Mt. RainierCraig Hixon (28), who spent two nights on Mt. Rainier wrapped in a sleeping bag and a torn tent and without shoes, was found alive and well about 7:30 a.m. on Monday, July 2.“Somebody ...
Huandoy Sur, Attempt on South Face and Second Ascent of West Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Gerardo Watzl, leader, his wife Jacqueline, Aldo Sánchez, Eduardo Vivaldi, Altamira, Carlos Perri, J. Corradi, Rafael Suárez and me. We set up Base ...
Shot Tower, ArrigetchDAVID S. ROBERTSALREADY we’re making excuses. “You probably won’t have to wait around too long,” I tell Sharon. “We may back off right at the beginning.” Ed Ward voices similar doubts; the tower looks hard. The date is only Ju...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, DARKNESS, WEATHERNevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, White Rock SpringsLate on the morning of December 21, T. W. (13) andJ P. (18) began climbing Tunnel Vision (III, 5.7) on the A...
Everest, new fees and restrictions on climbers. International publicity about the Nangpa La shooting led some journalists to see it as a factor in the Chinese authorities’ decision to place restrictions on teams going to Everest in spring 2007. Bu...
Anthony's Peak, First Ascent. Chris Howarth, Ian Arnold, Dave Millman and Richard Baines established Advance Base at Karphoro on the Upper Biafo and Uzum Brakk North glaciers. Snow conditions were very lean and the weather unusually fine. After a ...
Winter Ascent of Mount Robson. During the first week of March, Fred Beckey, Alex Bertulis, Tom Stuart and I ascended Mount Robson in two independent groups. Alex and I climbed straight through the Berg Glacier to the base of the north face and int...
Taping for Hand and Fist Jam CracksAndrew Embick, M.D.ROCK SHOES provide comfort and protection for the climber’s feet as well as improving contact with the rock by their adhesion. A properly executed tape job similarly provides comfort for the ha...
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Bright Star. Bright Star was first climbed by Ed Webster and named in honor of Lauren Husted. A variation was free climbed by Charlie Fowler and Scott Cosgrove, but they avoided the meat of the route. Cameron Tague and I ...
A Bugaboo AdventureFred BeckeyAS RALPH Widrig, Joe Hieb and I trudged to camp at timberline with heavy packs, the solid granite of the Bugaboo Spires looked inviting, for the poor rock we had encountered in the Rockies, excepting only on Mount Lou...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 3 January Leslie Buckland (35), leader, Duke Stock and Russell Hoyt were climbing in Huntington Ravine on Mt. Washington. Buckland had had a moderate amount of rock and ice climbing experience and had visited Mt. ...
Mount Crillon—Sixty-One Years AgoBradford Washburn(Mount Crillon lies on a peninsula immediately west of Glacier Bay in the Alaskan Panhandle. Its summit rises to 3879 meters or 12,727 feet, ten miles above the Pacific Ocean on the west and eleven...
The Fourth Pucahirca. As every serious student of the Andes knows, there are three Pucahircas. We, the members of the 1955 North American Andean Expedition, had read all the literature about them—two paragraphs. Except for a solo ascent by Erwin S...
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini. In three days in October, Hans Johnstone and I fixed some protection and opened the beautiful corner system 15m right of South Buttress Right. The first two pitches are 5.11 classic corners with excellent protect...