Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge. Dave Wilkinson and I visited the Cordillera Huayhuash and climbed the northwest ridge of Yerupajá (21,765 feet). We reached the summit on August 13, the climb having taken us two-and-a-half days. It took a further day-an...
Ape Lake Region, Coast Range. Our group gathered at Nimpo Lake on August 4 and in three shuttles in Dick Poet’s Cessna all eight of us were placed on the shores of Ape Lake. This used to be reached in six rough days of back-packing but was now acc...
Rock routes near Huayna Potosi, 1981. Yves Astier and Olivier Mandrènes climbed four rock routes in the Huayna Potosí region from June 30 to July 7, 1981. Two of the climbs were on the south side of Khala Cruz (5240 meters, 17,192 feet), sometimes...
Seven Castles Area, Under A Winter Sky. On January 5 I soloed a four-pitch route in the Seven Castles area north of Basalt. Under A Winter Sky (III 5.9X) climbs the main chimney system on the left side of the wall. It then breaks left to gain the ...
Cerro Tórtolas, Northern Andes. The twin tips of Cerro Tórtolas (20,243 and 20,744 feet) had been suspected by local mountaineers to be an Indian sanctuary; findings previous to 1960 had produced only rock constructions. On February 21, a group of...
Yugoslav Expedition to Cordillera Real, 1964. Under the leadership of Aleksander Blazina, Alojz Golob, Martin Mihelic, Alojz Steblaj, Franc Savenc and Dr. Ivo Valic left LaPaz on July 26, 1964 for the Huayna Potosí group. (For complete details wit...
Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress. On September 16, Paul Bellamy and I made what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Rock from the vertical east side. We climbed the 900-foot northeast buttress. From the meadows southeast of the peak we t...
Peak 12,380' (Kahiltna Queen*), South Face Couloir and Distant Lights. It’s maddening how many things can go wrong in this game of ours. The weather is a tough opponent, and gets the upper hand at some point. Snow is forever fickle. Personal fitne...
SNOW BLINDNESS-INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn June 11, Michael William Pope (45) lost his sight while descending from a successful off-season ascent of the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. It was a particularl...
Trinity Peak, Southwest Peak. Our expedition was composed of Yoichi Kawasaki, Chiyoki Onodera, Yasuo Nikai, Osamu Nishihira, Dr. Akihiro Matsushita and me as leader. The name of Trinity Peak was given by an English expedition when they got a dista...
Watchtower and Castle Rocks, Sequoia National Park, 1984 and 1985. The easily accessible and exposed 8-pitch route, Watch Out, is on the central main face of the Watchtower about 30 minutes easy hiking from the Lodgepole Campground. Ron Carson, my...
Juneau Icefields. On August 10 John Rupley and I climbed the east ridge of the Snow Towers. After seven leads of friable rock we were on the northeast point, the lowest of the three-summited peak. NCCS III, F5. On the way back to our camp south of...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION PLACEMENTS, FAILURE OF NUTS, BELAY FAILUREColorado, Boulder and Eldorado Springs CanyonsFrom the months of May through September, 1983, a total of 33 accidents were recorded and categorized by Dr. Cliff Watts. ...
Kun and Nun. These two high peaks are being climbed frequently. An Austrian group led by Günther Hochhauser made its first attempt on July 24 but only Hans Stadlbauer got to the summit of Kun (7087 meters, 23,250 feet). The next day five more clim...
Long Canyon Area. In Short Canyon, the first side canyon on the right in Long Canyon, on the east face of Deadman’s Buttress, in May Stuart and Bret Ruckman climbed Stewing Over Art (I, 5.12—), aright-facing comer. In March, Katy Cassidy, Carol Pe...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot. On 10 August, Fred C. Jacobs (21) and four companions were descending Mt. Teewinot after a dual attempt on the summit via two different routes (2 in one party and 3 in the other). The party was regroup...
Sia Kangri and Baltoro Kangri III. Our expedition consisted of S. Hiraoka, S. Etori, S. Uemura, T. Mizuoshi, T. Kurita, K. Miyashita, T. Kobayashi, Dr. T. Takahashi, J. Futagami and me as leader. Having left Skardu on May 21 Kobayashi, Takahashi, ...
Gasherbrum II Tragedy. After arriving at Dassu by jeep, Glenn Brindeiro, Steven Casebolt, Donald Goodman, David Hambly, Dr. Brack Hattler, David McClung, Dr. Thomas Vaughan and I as leader on May 15 started our trek to Base Camp (16,500 feet), whi...
Schweizer Volksunst, by Titus Burckhardt and Lucas Lichtenhahn. 98 pages of text, with illustrations from drawings, and 72 full-page plates from photographs, some in color. Basle: Urs Graf, 1941. Price, $6.30.
The North Cascades National Park, photos by Bob and Ira Spring, text by Harvey Manning. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1969. 143 pages, 109 black-and-white photos, 15 color plates, 2 maps. Price $17.50Here is another essay on the North Cascades...