SLIDE INTO STEAM VENTWashington, Mount RainierOn May 24th, a climbing guide (age unknown) near the summit of Mount Rainier slid into a steam vent and fell 15 to 20 feet. Climbers with her reported that she had injured ribs on her left side, was ex...
Latok V, first ascent; Latok II, south ridge, first alpine-style ascent. Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and I arrived at base camp on the Baintha Lukpar Glacier on July 28, with the intent of climbing the west face of Latok III. We arrived at the end o...
Ridge West From Wind River Peak. Woody Stark and I in the first week of August traversed the ridge that extends west from Wind River Peak towards East Temple; it consists of six spires. The first spire right off the shoulder of Wind River Peak was...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESMissouri, Kansas City, Cliff DriveCliff Drive is a limestone crag near downtown Kansas City, Missouri. There are six to 12 routes of varying difficulty. I was climbing with friends on Oc...
AAC, New York Section. The new millennium began inauspiciously. Unseasonably warm weather in early January threatened to make our 15th Annual Winter Outing a total washout. Miraculously, a quick succession of winter storms changed all that, and by...
Kongur, Northwest Ridge. The expedition was composed of climbing leader Etsuro Yasuda, Tateshi Sudo, Hideo Muto, Junjiro Hori, Yukihiro Enomoto, Chiharu Yoshimura, Kazuhiro Nakato, Shogo Takahashi, Kouichi Tomoda, T. Shimuzu, Sadao Matsuda and me ...
Garmush. The Austrian Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Peter Baumgartner and comprised his wife Lilo, Karl Mahrer, Dr. Franz Österreicher and Rudi Brandstötter. They flew to Gilgit, took a jeep to Yashin and donkeys to Darkot and went with 22 port...
Alaska Alpine Club. In April a six-man party reached the summit of Mount Silvertip (9500 feet) at the eastern end of the Alaska Range after climbing a 100-foot pinnacle of rime ice at the top. We believe that this was the second complete ascent of...
Three First Ascents, Cathedral Spires Kichatna Mountains. Scott Flavelle, John Arts and I, all from Vancouver, B.C., spent from June 29 to July 31 in the Cathedral Spires. Although we had the usual bad weather that this area is noted for, we made ...
Climbs on the Southwest Face of the Fremont-Sacajciwea Ridge, Wind River Range. On June 23 Jim M. McCarthy and I climbed the wishbone arête leading up to the summit south of Sacajawea. Looking up, we took the right-hand bone to start and climbed o...
Moose’s Tooth and Barrille. After flying in on June 1, Sallie Herr, Sharon Druck, William Hillegas, Peter Carter and I spent two weeks in the Ruth Amphitheater and Great Gorge. During the first week we witnessed extreme avalanche activity and much...
EXPOSURE AND EXHAUSTION, STRANDED IN BAD WEATHER— California, Mt. Shasta. Five climbers were hit by a sudden storm on the Whitney Glacier of Mt. Shasta on February 19, 1977. Exposure and exhaustion claimed the life of Geraldine (Dina) Lombard (45)...
Cordillera Crucero-Aricoma. The Spaniards Venancio López de Ceballos, his wife Andrea Puigdoménech and Jorge Pons climbed in the Cordillera Crucero-Aricoma, due north of Lake Titicaca. They made the following first ascents, which have been given p...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, New Routes. Our expedition was composed of Italian Marco Bianchi, Portuguese João Garcia, Poles Piotr Pustelnik, Mariusz Sprutta, Zbigniew Terlikowski and me as leader. In September, the weather in the Himalaya remained ...
Five New Routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Layton Kor made a series of new routes, all of extreme difficulty and calling for much direct aid, on the 2000-foot walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. On the Painted Wall route, Kor and ...
Yale Mountaineering Club. In 1951 the Club continued its program of training in rock-climbing and ice-climbing techniques, supplemented by a course in first aid and mountain rescue. There were numerous week-end trips to the Shawangunks and New Eng...
Abasraju Attempt. Rob and Peter Gilbert from Dartmouth College returned to the Cordillera Blanca, hoping to climb Abasraju, which they had previously attempted. Once again, they climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit, the second time f...
Rakhuy Group, Kwaja Muhammad Range. A group from Munich left Warsay with a pack train on July 3 for the Rakhuy group, where they set up Base Camp on the 13th. From July 15 to August 8 they climbed 17 peaks, of which 14 were over 5000 meters (16,40...
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Chacraraju Este. After our climbing in the Cordillera Huayhuash (see that section), Bas Grenigt had recovered considerably and together on July 14 we climbed the north face of Quitaraju. On the 17th we ascended Alpamayo’s sout...
Central Howser Tower, West Face, Chocolate Fudge Brownie. In early August, Brian Webster and I slogged over to the backside of the Howser massif to add another route to the west face of Central Howser Tower. We missed out on the first ascent of th...