STRANDED, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO STOVEOregon, Mount Hood, Reid Glacier HeadwallThis incident involved a climbing team that was part of a Portland-area climbing club. The following description of the events leading to the incident on Janu...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone, 1988. Our expedition consisted of Lars Ogenhag and me, Sweden; Peter Herzog, Austria; Mark Jenkins, USA; and Helge Bardseth, Norway. We flew to the region from Isafjördur, Iceland. Except for Bardseth, we all climb...
Men, Women and Mountains, by Sir Claud Schuster, G.C.B., C.V.C. Pp. 143. Ivor Nicholson and Watson, Ltd., London, England, 1931. 12/6.“It is a paradox that mountaineering, whose spiritual impulse is a Wordsworthian desire for solitude, should depe...
Broad Peak Ascent and Tragedy and Attempts on K2. After various reconnaissances on and around K2 by some members of the expedition, on June 22 Andy Parkin and Alan Rouse set off up the normal route on Broad Peak alpine- style. They all felt that t...
Colorado: (5) Rocky Mountain National Park, During the summer of 1950 three other accidents attributable to mountain climbing occurred in this area. A man received a broken clavicle and bruises when he slid down a snow bank in upper Chaos Canyon o...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount BlackburnOn June 16, 1988, a Japanese climbing party of four, led by Yoichi Tadokoro (44) were at the 3200 meter level on the Northwest Ridge of Mount Blackburn when two members were struck after they had traversed about 100...
Masherbrum Attempt and Geological Expedition. Our expedition spent three months in the Baltoro Karakoram with the dual objectives: to conduct a geological survey of K2 and the Gasherbrum group in the northeast to the Shigar valley in the southwest...
Season overview. The Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs saw a ferocious amount of activity this season, particularly during a long spell of good weather in late January and early February. This is the third time in the last few years that an unusual...
Volcano Llanin, Lake District. Two Italians, Enzio Mazzoldi and Giovanni Wiese made the first ascent of the formidable south face of the Volcán Llanin (12,388 feet) on the Chilean-Argentine border on February 19-21, 1955. The face had been previou...
Winter Traverse of Teewinot, Owen and the Grand Teton. From January 30 to February 2, Gary Wilmot, Greg Collins and I traversed these three peaks. Starting at three A.M., we climbed Teewinot by its southeast ridge and camped in a snow cave on East...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupOn August 1, 1990, two climbers were descending snow and ice unroped, about 50 meters below the summit of Peak 9250 (north of Little Howser) when one of them slipped on loos...
Parbati Valley. Snow lay so deep last spring that the Yorkshire Himalayan Expedition on April 26 established its base camp only at Pulga. Thence they attempted to penetrate the upper Parbati, Tos, and Tichu valleys, but deep snow and bad weather t...
Manaslu Attempt. A six-man British team led by Mark Dixon attempted the southwest face of Manaslu. They gave up on October 20, after reaching 7000 meters.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Chacraraju, East Ridge Attempt. A Yugoslavian expedition of the Akademsko Planinsko Drustvo of Ljubljana was led by Aleksander Blazina. On July 4 Igor Golli died after falling 1300 feet down the south face of Chacraraju when he was pulled from his...
The Colorado Mountain Club. During 1983 The Colorado Mountain Club grew to over 7500 members, added a fourteenth Colorado group (Glenwood Springs), and conducted more than 2200 trips throughout Colorado. The club also conducted a number of outings...
Adi Kailash Range, first ascents and an attempt on Adi Kailash. A joint Indo-British expedition led by Martin Moran explored the Adi Kailash mountain range of Eastern Kumaon in Sept-Oct. No previous climbing had been recorded in this area, which l...
Panch Chuli II. A 24-man expedition of the Indian Army Kumaon and Naga Regiments was led by Lieutenant Suraj Bhan Dalai. In the post-monsoon, they climbed Panch Chuli II (6904 meters, 22,650 feet) from the east, which is said to be more difficult ...
From August 2 through September 28, Klemen Mali, Miha Valic, and I, all from Slovenia, climbed in the Trango group. Our main target was supposed to be the southwest ridge of Great Trango Tower. However, just a few days before our departure, we hea...
Nampa South or Rokapi. In the pre-monsoon season we made an attempt on this unclimbed summit of 22,408 feet in the far northwest of Nepal. We were John Barron, Bob Junkison, Tom Leppert, Barry Smith and I. We chose the mountain for its remote posi...
Everest, Age Record and Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition. Our international post-monsoon Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition via the South Col was led by Britons Stephen Bell assisted by Roger Mear and Martin Barnicott. On October 7, Britons Bell, Ginette ...