FALLS ON SNOW AND ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—CRAMPONS WRONG SIZE AND RROKEN, MODERATE EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn Saturday, August 12, John Craver (40) of Santa Cruz, CA, was descending with companions from the summit of Mount Rainier to ...
Jirishanca Chico Tragedy. In August, after American Robert Anderson, Scot Dr. John Hosie and Peter Cornwall had made an unsuccessful attempt on the east face of Yerupajá Chico, the three climbed Jirishanca Chico unroped, stopping just short of the...
Mt. Moran, New Route. In July, John Kelley and Jim Beyer added a new route to the south face of Mt. Moran (12,605'). The Kelley-Beyer route (VI 5.12a AO) was established in six days over two attempts. The two protagonists are responsible for rough...
SLIP ON SNOWWashington, Snoqualine PassOn June 4, Elizabeth Howard (64) was plunge stepping down the east side of Red Mountain when she lost her balance and fell head first down 200 feet of snow into a rock field where she slid another 75 feet. Sh...
Castle Rocks, The Gargoyle Route. When you approach Castle Rocks via Buckeye Campground, the sweeping 900-foot west face of a tower located high amidst the Castle Rock massif is visible. Unlike the “Fin” and its counterpart “Castle Rock Spire,” th...
Nun-Kun Massif White Needle. Cesar Fernandez Perez, Alfonso Vaquero Marin and Gustavo Vazquez Fariña climbed White Needle (6500 m), situated beneath the Nun-Kun Massif, as part of a commercial expedition organized by Terres de Aventure. They summi...
Bona, Winter Ascent. Alaskans Dave Pahlke, Rich Burton, Paul Denke- walter and I made the first winter ascent of Mount Bona (5005 meters, 16,421 feet) on March 3. We followed the northwest ridge, the route of the first-ascent party. The climb bega...
Hetch Hetchy Dome, Resurrection and In Memoriam. Hetch Hctchy is the next canyon northwest of Yosemite Valley. From Tuolumne Meadows, the Tuolumne River flows west into what used to be the “other valley.” A bit smaller than Yosemite, but every bit...
ROCK AND SNOW AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Crescent GlacierAt about 5 p.m., on August 19, 1982, a large rockfall from the summit area of Bugaboo Spire came down the east face and caused a snow avalanche on Crescent...
FOOTHOLD GAVE WAY-FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlaska, Mount Hunter, Southwest RidgeOn May 26 at 1700, James Raitt(27),James Bonnie (27), Mark Paterson, Darren Swift, Richard Cantrill, and Peter Pollard flew to the Southeast Fork of the Kahil...
Storm King Mountain. On July 12, in a long push from Rainy Pass, I did a new route on Storm King Mountain. The north side of the peak has a small pocket glacier with two couloirs at its head. I followed the right one for several hundred feet on 50...
Dave Nettle joined me, in May 2005, on my first excursion to Upper Castle Rocks in Sequoia National Park. We knew of only two routes in the area: The Gargoyle (5.10 A1), on South Guard, and the Beckey Route (5.8 A2) on Amphitheater Dome. After fig...
FALLING ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Louise FallsOn February 22, an ice climber at Louise Falls was injured in an accident similar to a fatal mishap that occurred a year ago at the same location. He was climbing solo and using a d...
Devistan. Our nine-man expedition from West Bengal established Base Camp at 16,000 feet on June 5 and camps at 17,500 and 19,500 on June 6 and 7. On June 8 Stimit Srimany and Pasang Thondup reached the summit of Devistan (6678 meters, 21,910 feet)...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up. Over three days in early June, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims, and I established Pent Up (700', 5.12c) in the Chillumstone Gully on the South Rim. It starts above the Chillumstone (so don’t do the rap), on the sam...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During 1958 the Section had two visitors from among the national officers: President John Oberlin, in May, and Editor Francis Farquhar, in November. On both occasions informal meetings of members were arranged.Harol...
Mt. MacDonald, Little Face, Prime Rib to summit ridge. Characterized by long, continuous rock ribs, numerous avalanche paths, frozen waterfalls in winter, and two pointy peaks, it’s surprising how little traffic the north face of Mt. MacDonald has...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. On my latest experience in Patagonia, Maurizio Giarolli and I made an attempt on a new route on Cerro Torre via the northeast pillar and the center of the north face. Unfortunately, bad weather only allowed us to put up a dif...
The drill finally hums. “On belay,’’comes the shout from above. Our rain-soaked drill, chilled by the polar wind, has reached operating temperature again. However, by the time we reach the next hanging stance, the drill has refrozen. A fall at thi...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, SLIP ON SNOW, WEATHERWashington, Mount RainierOn May 29, 1984, at 0900 three groups of U. S. Army Rangers from the Huckleberry Creek Army Training Center just outside of the North Park Boundary left Paradi...