DUNCAN A. MacINNES 1885-1965Dr. Duncan A. MacInnes, a member since 1940, died Sept. 23, 1965 at the age of 80. A member Emeritus of the Rockefeller University he had continued active in scientific research until a few weeks of his death. In summar...
Hetch Hetchy Dome, South Face. It was no ordinary ledge on which we were bivouacked, — over 100 feet wide, 400 feet long, and inaccessible except by roped climbing. So far our route had seemed difficult and yet in some ways, tame. Even though we h...
Among North American alpinists, the north face of North Twin is as steeped in climbing mythology as the most famous faces in the world. Before last April, it had seen only two ascents, by two different routes, each of which is known in the colle...
Gene F. White 1934-2008Gene White created an extraordinary life. At age 12 he climbed his first Colorado peaks with local Boy Scouts; in 2007, at age 73 and already battling leukemia for four years, he absolutely relished a 10-day hut-to-hut hike ...
Canadian Rockies, Various Activity. The 1997-98 season ended up a below-average year for ice formation, but new route activity, with the major emphasis now switched to mixed rock and ice, continued at a fevered pace, making this winter one of the ...
Fitz Roy’s Simoncic RouteMatevž Lenarcic, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaFITZ ROY, a colossus of granite and ice, is remarkable from every side. From far out to the east, from the flat, dry pampa, its dominant silhouette appears, defying com...
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2. Jennifer Jordan. W. W. Norton, 2010. 302 pages. Black & white photos. Hardcover. $26.95.Dudley Wolfe, who died high on K2 during the 1939 American expedition, has been ne...
Mount Heyburn, North Face. Probably the most obvious technical climb in the Sawtooth Range, the direct north face of Mount Heyburn, had never been done prior to this season. Heyburn, as seen from the north, from the highway or Redfish Lake, is spl...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. With increasing campus interest in climbing and swelling ranks, the Harvard Mountaineering Club is enjoying something of a renaissance. Both direct and indirect Club involvement in all aspects of climbing, from top-rop...
Thin Ice: Unlocking the Secrets of Climate in the World’s Highest Mountains. Mark Bowen. New York: Holt Paperback. 2006. 320 pages. $17.50.Glaciers worldwide are dying. Our warming climate is killing them off drip by drip. While many climbers have...
Ascents in the Karavshin Valley. Eight members of The North Face Climbing Team spent three and a half weeks between July 10 and August 6 in Kirghizstan climbing in a spectacular region of the Pamir Alai range commonly referred to as the Ak-Su. Kno...
San Valentín and Other Peaks, Northern Patagonian Icecap. During the southern summer of 1969-70 the New Zealand Patagonian Expedition was on the Northern Patagonian Icecap, part of the same Pleistocene glacial remnant as the better known and large...
THE mountain accidents of the climbing year 1948 surpassed in number those of 1947. In 1947 there were 15 persons killed or injured; in 1948 this number rose to 28. Although not all the accidents of the 1948 season can be described strictly as mou...
MARY VAUX WALCOTT(1860-1940)Mrs. Mary Vaux Walcott, of Washington, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1904, died August 22nd, 1940, while visiting friends at St. Andrews, New Brunswick. She was born in 1860, the daughter of George and Sara...
I first laid eyes on 14,470-foot University Peak in 2007. Daily views of the massive south face from low on the Hawkins Glacier were like a drug that wraps itself around the base of your brain and haunts your dreams. But it was out of my league...
Mount Everest Group, Attempted Traverse. A program similar to Reinhard Patscheider’s (see Tibet) was Anatoli Boukreev’s more elaborate idea for a traverse from Lhotse’s summit (8516m) over to the top of Everest, and then, “if I feel like it,” a tr...
Everest 1933, by Hugh Ruttledge. Illustrated with 59 photographs, charts, diagrams and maps. London : Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd., 1934. Price 25s.This account of the fourth Everest expedition is written in greater part by the leader, Ruttledge, wi...
Miscellaneous Items from Other Reports:In one rescue on Mt. Rainier, an improvised sled made of an Ensolite pad and sleeping bag was successfully used to lower a victim 500 feet.Several rescues made use of visual ground to air signals.One rescue s...
Chris Thomas and I climbed the sub-peak immediately south of Mt. Huntington's South Ridge route on May 9. Beginning from the Mt. Huntington base camp (ca 8,000') at 11:00 p.m. on May 8, we climbed to the “upper park” snowfield (ca 10,000') on ...
West Face of Snowpatchjames p. McCarthyHIGH above was Snowpatch, a great, black shape looming over us in the evening sky. Once more Hans Kraus, John Rupley, and I had been drawn back to the Bugaboos. Supper over, we sat quietly among the rocks whi...