Sikkim Himalaya, 1952. For one continuous year I had been tied to a desk in the teeming, sweltering city of Calcutta and it seemed time for a change. The Sikkim Himalaya, only a few hours away by plane, offered excellent mountaineering possibiliti...
Altitude Sickness and ClimbingCharles S. HoustonUNTIL quite recently the effects of high altitude were of interest and importance only to that small school of fanatics who make the summits of high mountains their goals, and there was little scient...
Kichatna Spire’s East FaceScott WoolumsWE COULD HEAR THE roar of powder avalanches coming. Seconds later they would hit our porta-ledges, smashing the tent flies against our faces while we waited out a 48-hour storm. The spindrift had already soak...
Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt. Masahiko Miyoshi, Morikatsu Hashimoto, Hidetoshi Nakama, Masahiro Izawa, Atsushi Endo, Hiroshi Kobayashi, Nabuaki Tuchizawa and I as leader reached Base Camp at 4300 meters on the Momhil Glacier on July 27. We...
The Mountaineers. The Seattle Mountaineers climbing program, under the leadership of Barbara McCann, continued with expansion of its traditional alpine program by again offering courses and seminars in sport climbing, water ice climbing and other ...
Glacier Bay. This expedition was Prof. Cooper’s fourth to this locality, the previous ones having been made in 1916, 1921, and 1929, while the writer had been there once before in 1926.1 Both of us continued our series of observations of the glaci...
Mount Thor, Midgard Serpent. John Rzeczycki and I spent August 10 through 25 climbing a new line on the west face of Mount Thor in Auyuittuq Park, Baffin Island. The line we chose took us through the center of Thor's west face, avoiding the loose ...
Kayaking and Climbing in the KarakoramAndrew Embick, M.D.THE KARAKORAM RANGE can be thought of as the edge of the Asian continental plate uplifted by the Indian subcontinent sliding underneath. While the Himalaya is composed of the sedimentary sur...
Ascents of Khamengar and Parahio and Exploration in Kulu, Spiti and Lahul. Our expedition of Kaivan Mistry and me and Kumaoni porters Har Singh Sr, Har Singh Jr and Kesar Singh and Manali porters Yog Raj Thakur and Surat Ram was joined in the firs...
Climbs in the High Andes of PeruWilliam F. JenksA record of three short expeditions in the Peruvian Cordillera, with an appendix listing Peruvian peaks, climbed and unclimbed, worthy of attention of American mountaineers.FEW American climbers are ...
RAPPEL FAILURE—MID-MARK ON ROPE CAME OFF, DISTRACTION California, Yosemite Valley, Reed’s Pinnacle areaOn September 13,1994, John Pinchott (31) and Joel O’Connell spent the day climbing short routes at Reeds Pinnacle. Pinchott finished by top-ropi...
The Khumbu ExpressTwo Himalayan solos in 12 days, on Cholatse and Tawoche, NepalUeli SteckI have recently climbed a variety of mountains and routes solo. This type of climbing fascinates mebecause of the deep and powerful experiences you can get o...
LYDIA LYMAN HALL1899-1991Two years ago, when she became so terribly ill, although she knew exactly what was going on, her optimism and courage never flagged for a moment. Her patience was thrilling. Her marvelous and oft-subtle sense of humor was ...
The American Alpine Club’s Handbook of American Mountaineering, edited by Kenneth A. Henderson. 234 pages, including bibliography, and 150 pen and ink illustrations. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1942.The American Alpine Club should be proud of its Ha...
Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, southwest ridge; Dauru (5,877m), northwest ridge; Ranglana (5,554m), south ridge. Boris Korzh, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania, Andrew McLellan, and I, all from Imperial College, London, spent the latter part of Septembe...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On March 2 Jim Martin (32), a member of the Mountaineers and an experienced mountaineer was involved in an overnight bivouac on the upper slopes of the Palmer Glacier on Mt. Hood. Martin had tried in vain to organize a party to cl...
Snow Canyon. In December, 1977 Bill March and I did a new route in Snow Canyon, about 20 miles northeast of St. George. Originally Jim Knight and I had tried it in 1972. From Highway 18 near the Snow Canyon turnoff one can walk 100 yards west to t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ACCEPTED STANDARDS California, RedmondOn September 21, Travis Hull (28), North American Wilderness Academy school administrator and master wilderness instructor, fell to his death while teachi...
Bridge Mountain, North Face, Hegira, Zion Canyon, 1979. Misa Giesey and I climbed a line of off-width and fist cracks straight up the north face to a bowl below the summit brush slopes in October, 1979. A finger crack leads out of the bowl to the ...
FALL ON ICE/SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress(What follows is a synopsis of two incidents, one that happened as a result of the second party attempting to rescue the first.)At 1130 on May 24, Jason Sinnes an...