Book Reviews AAJ
The Mountaineer's Week-End Book

The Mountaineer’s Week-End Book, by Showell Styles. 408 pages, with decorations by Thomas Beck. The Week-End Series. London: Seeley Service, 1950. Price, 12/6.This grabbag for a rucksack is of course intended for British mountaineers, but it makes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Northern Victoria Land, Mount Minto

Mount Minto, Northern Victoria Land. Mount Minto (4163 meters, 13,658 feet) is the highest point in Northern Victoria Land. It had been unsuccessfully attempted several times. Our climbing party was made up of Lincoln Hall, Jonathan Chester, Lyle ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure, New York, Shawangunks

FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksOn April 13, 1985, a man (43) fell ten meters while leading Ken’s Crack (5.7). He had swaged his own wire on nut and it pulled when he fell. He sustained cuts and bruises. (Source: Tom Scheuer, S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Anyemaqen, First Ascent by Japanese, 1981

Anyemaqen, First Ascent by Japanese, 1981. Details previously lacking of the first ascent of Anyemaqen have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 88. An expedition of eleven men and two women was led by Yuzo Tada. From Base Camp at 14,750 feet east of the mo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacaraju Oeste, South Face

Chacraraju Oeste, south face. In the first week of August Steve Moffat (New Zealand) and I climbed what was most likely a new route (600m, WI5 5.9 mixed) just to the right of the 1982 Yugoslav route on the south face. This side of the mountain has...


Accident Reports ANAM
French-Italian Alps: the Dent du Géant

French-Italian Alps: the Dent du Géant. On 18 August 1949 a party of four Americans was climbing this peak from the Rifugio Torino in Italy. They were paired in ropes of two each. At the time of the accident, J. Graham McNear (Chicago Mountaineeri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains

Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains. In early July Charlie Crocker and I made what we believe are the first ascents of five summits in the Coast Mountains to the southeast of LeConte Bay. From Petersburg, these peaks may be seen to the southeas...


Accident Reports ANAM
Oregon, Mt. Hood

Oregon, Mt. Hood. On 4 May Terry Simonich (26), Linda Simonich (26), Robert Patterson (32), Terry Riddell (26), Dave Skinner (27), and Pam Skinner (24), set out to climb the WyEast route. All of the party had previous climbing experience with the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nevado Vicuñita, Last Inca South America, Peru, Cordillera Central

In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain guiding school of Peru), made camp at Lake Paccha (4,600m), below the southwest face of Nevado Vicunita (5,550m). They ...

| Published 2010 | Author Sergio RamÍrez Carrascal, Peru


Notes AAJ
Nomenclature in the Huayhuash

Nomenclature in the Huayhuash. Since the Cordillera Huayhuash was first surveyed in 1927 by the American Geographic Society expedition, confusion over peak names and heights have surfaced. In cases where confusion over peak names exist the AAJ has...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains

Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains. After eight leisurely days rafting down the Copper River from Chitina, we arrived at the terminus of the Miles Glacier. On June 18, after caching our river supplies, we six, Story Clark, Sarah Robey, Don White, ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice and Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Joffre

SLIP ON ICE AND SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount JoffreOn August 6, 1989, a party of three (early 20s) was climbing ice and snow on the north face of Mount Joffre. They were roped together, using ice screws ...


Notes AAJ
Possibly the Earliest Mountain Fatality

Possibly the earliest mountain fatality in the United States, was that of Elisha Mitchell in 1857. While exploring the mountains of North Carolina, he was killed by a fall from a precipice. It was in his honor that Mt. Mitchell (6,711 ft.) was nam...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., South Central Section

AAC, South Central Section. The section held its annual meeting on October 27 in Houston at the Hilton Southwest Hotel. Past chairperson J. French Hill presided over the dinner and membership meeting, which were followed by a silent auction, slide...


Book Reviews AAJ
Across the Olympic Mountains: The Press Expedition

Across the Olympic Mountains: The Press Expedition, 1889–90, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers and the University of Washington Press, 1967. 220 pages, 24 photographs, 9 maps. Price: $5.95.The central mountains of the Olympi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Sub-6000m Peaks (Karakoram and Hindu Raj), Attempts and Ascents of New Routes

Sub-6000m peaks (Karakoram and Hindu Raj), attempts and ascents of new routes. On June 5 the Korean Five Peaks Expedition set off from Seoul for the Karakoram and Hindu Kush. The seven-man expedition, led by Gi-seok Seo, set out to make ascents of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Annie Beghin and Véronique Périllat had hoped to climb the South Col route on Everest as a two-woman expedition. Their high point of 8500 meters was reached on October 6.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Lenin, North Face on Skis

Pik Lenin, North Face on Skis. Italians R. Cason, B. Dall’Oro and O. Fomo climbed Pik Lenin (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) by its north face on skis, reaching the summit on July 29. They then descended on skis. They made five camps above their 12,000-...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. The expedition of the Tohan Club was composed of Tadashi Mochizuki, Tadashi Mizuno, Tadashi Nakamura, Tatsuji Shigeno, Yoshinori Kanoh, Kazuo Yamamoto, Katsuichi Kataoka, Satoshi Kimrua, Kazufumi Nagura, Nabuo Shimosaka, Hiroo Imanishi, Et...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face, More on Tomo ?esen's 1990 Ascents

Lhotse South Face, More on Tomo Cesen’s 1990 Ascent. When Scott Fischer and I returned to Kathmandu after climbing Lhotse in May 1990, we were interviewed by Liz Hawley and at that time we verified that Cesen had reached the summit of Lhotse. As I...