Kimtah Peak, Northeast Ridge. Located on a ragged ridge, Stimson Bullitt and I completed this fun climb in August. Our approach was from the south to the Kimtah-Katsuk Col, down onto the Katsuk Glacier, across the glacier and onto the northeast ri...
HEAT PROSTRATION California, Yosemite ValleyDavid Kays (22) and Ken Corathers (29) were climbing the North Buttress of Middle Cathedral on August 2 when they reported by CB radio to friends on the ground that they were out of water and unable to c...
Mount Logan. The Arctic Institute of North America, Kluane Station, carried on a successful research season on Mount Logan with the establishment of laboratory and living quarters at 17,400 feet about midway on the Logan Plateau. During the last d...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn July 8 around 2330, Yosemite dispatch received multiple 911 calls reporting cries for help coming from the wall near the Awahnee hotel. Ranger Keith Lober investigated an...
Pumori, Ama Dablam, and a Season-Ending Storm. These two popular destinations had eight and 17 teams on them respectively. A total of twenty-eight people summitted Pumori by its standard route up the southeast ridge and face, and altogether 67 cli...
Llullaillaco. This peak (22,058 feet) in the Puna de Atacama was climbed for the sixth time in modern days on December 13 by Miguel Gómez, Captain Hector Miranda and Luis Allende from their third high camp. The group was made up of four civilians ...
Pioneer Peak, North Face. While on Adamant Gary Colliver had noticed an ice face on Pioneer Peak which he assured me was 65°. I have never seen any ice face this steep, though sections of one may be, so I was skeptical of his mathematics. But what...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn August 19, 1981, T. W. was hiking to the Cascade Amphitheatre, a hanging valley which is passed on a scrambling route to the summit of Cascade Mountain. En ro...
La Hoja, Bohemian Rhapsody, and Expeditions to the Pingo Valley, Clarification. Between January 5 and February 6, 1996, Sven Bruchfeld (24) and Christian Oberli (24), both Chileans, made the first ascent of the east face of La Hoja in Pingo Valley...
Blue Ridge Section. In 2010 the Blue Ridge Section continued to meet at the Rhodeside Tavern in Rosslyn, Virginia. In April four members—Daniel Ressler, Hunt Prothro, Rob Borokantics, and Simon Carr—presented an overview of Sierra climbing, rangin...
Makalu Attempt, Makalu II Ascent. Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak, has had 14 ascents since the first by the French in 1955. Our expedition was fortunate not to have any other expedition on the mountain and we were able to choose our route ...
Yanawaka, Attempt and Possible First Ascent. On July 1-2, Pedro Arias, Juan Padilla and I attempted Yanawaka (La Peña Negra de Parón, ca. 4900m) via a line up the center of the peak’s vertical north face. (The locals of Paron that I asked in 1985 ...
First winter ascent of Cerro El Plata by a new route on the South Face. In July, four of us, Augusto H. Mengelle, Carlos G. Vittone, Jure Skvarca and I made the first winter ascent of the south face of Cerro El Plata (20,702 feet) by a new route. ...
Mount Everest, Winter Attempt. Our expedition was led by Michel Metzger and composed of Marc Batard, Alain de Blanchaud, René Ghilini, Yves Laulan, Michel Mabilon, Michel Piola, Jean Bourgeois, Pierre-Alain Steiner, Emmanuel Schmutz and me. We got...
Cathedral Mountains, various first ascents. From June 28 to July 18 British climbers Lindsay Griffin, Geoff Hornby, Dave Wallis, and I visited the Cathedral Mountains, a small offshoot of peaks to the west of Mt. Russell. Heart Mountain is the mai...
Climbs in the Pamirs, 1967. Soviet climbers celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Russian Revolution by holding a mass climbing camp in the Pamirs. In all, 301 climbers from U.S.S.R., Austria, Yugoslavia, East Germany, Italy, Czechoslovakia, Hung...
Tenzing, After Everest: An Autobiography by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, as told to Malcolm Barnes. London: George Allen and Unwin, 1977.Tenzing’s second autobiography is a worthy successor to Tiger of the Snows, his first autobiography, written with Ja...
Swiss Expedition. A Swiss party under the leadership of Lorenz Saladin and composed of, in addition to the leader, Hans Graf, Walter Frei and Otto Furrer made a successful trip to the Caucasus this past summer, effecting the first ascents of Skatt...
Salcantay, Southwest Face to the East Peak. The southwest face of Sal- cantay is some 5000 feet high and had before this year not been climbed, despite several previous attempts. Our team climbed a line on the right side of the face. It was of mix...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, TetonsOn May 31, 1983, Robert Eastham (28), a moderately experienced mountaineer, signed out to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran on June 1, returning on June 2. Because of the danger of spring ava...