STRANDED, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO LEARN DESCENT ROUTEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Taylor PeakOn December 12, Markin Fevughack (25) and Holley English (25) became stranded atop Thatchtop Mountain due to darkness after ...
Mount McKinley, Couloir from West Buttress Route to Kahiltna- horn. Reinhold Messner and I made a new ascent route on Mount McKinley on June 13. We started from the landing area on the Kahiltna Glacier on June 6 and climbed the West Buttress route...
California, Yosemite Valley. On July 16th Jerrold Goodwin (age 31) and Benjamin Wells (32) were on the first pitch of the MW Route of Sunnyside Bench. A falling body hurtled past and landed on the scree sixty feet below. Goodwin and Wells immediat...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Japanese Akira Kiuchi, Ken Kodachi and high-altitude porter Barubiru attempted to climb the west ridge of Thalay Sagar. They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4750, 4900 and 5300 meters on May 21, 25 and 29. Snowfal...
North Face of Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite. Robert Kamps, Charles Pratt and Steven Roper made the first ascent of the north face of Middle Cathedral Rock in the summer of 1959 in two and one-half days. Yvon Chouinard reports that this climb, on...
Colchuck Peak. In January Mark Thornton and I made the first winter ascent of the Wickwire-Lilleby route on excellent ice.David Seman
RAPPEL FAILURE—INCORRECT USE OF EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Heart CreekOn June 26, 1994, Alan C. was rock climbing at Heart Creek slabs with friends. After completing a pitch, he was being lowered by his belayer from below, with the rope r...
Distaghil Sar Attempt. Our members were Jean-François Lassalle, Jean- Claude Lefèbvre, Christophe Lefèbvre, Christian Mathieu and I as leader. We had hoped to climb Distaghil Sar (7885 meters, 25,870 feet) by its south face. We approached from His...
Beartooth Range. The Iowa Mountaineers held a summer camp in the Beartooth Range from August 7 to 19 Eighty members participated. Considerable investigation was required to determine a suitable Base Camp, which was finally located near Bob Lake wi...
Cleveland Mountaineers. A small group of enthusiastic outdoorsmen continue to breathe life into the organization. After the big trip into the Wind River-Wykee Lake region in 1972, led by Hal Joiner and Russ Batt, 1973 saw little action by our memb...
Ascents by Indian Expeditions in Himachal Pradesh. Chau Chau Kang Nilda II (6158 meters, 20,204 feet), above Langja village in Spiti, was climbed on September 14 by Amok Chatterji, Kishor Banerjee and Shyamal Pal. They were led by P.K. Barwan. Gan...
Cordillera de Apolobamba, Various Ascents. An 18-member party of young mountaineers from the Deutscher Alpenverein visited the Cordillera de Apolobamba, completing a number of climbs. They made the first ascent of the unclimbed East Ridge of the C...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonA climber (35) signed out on August 29, 1992, to do a solo climb of the north ridge of the Grand Teton. He discussed the route and his plans extensively with the range...
Climbing in the Adirondacks: A Guide to Rock and Ice Routes in the Adirondack Park. Second Edition. Don Mellor. The Adirondack Mountain Club, Inc., Lake George, N.Y., 1988. 318 pages, illustrations, charts, route diagrams, map, bibliography. $24.9...
Hayburn and Baxton, Sawtooth Range, Winter Ascents. On February 25 Loren Adkins and I made the first winter ascent of Mount Heyburn. (Beckey’s April 1961 climb was made under spring conditions.) Throughout the climb it snowed lightly. We climbed t...
Bella Coola Region, Coast Range. In late July my wife, Frances, and I flew to Symphony Lake (formerly Ape Lake), 32 miles southeast of Bella Coola. Providing access to a variety of excellent climbing, this lake has been visited frequently in recen...
STRANDED, UNABLE TO RETRIEVE RAPPEL ROPE Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap NRA, Mount MinsiOn August 27, 1994, at 2020, park dispatch received a phone call stating that there was a stranded climber on Mount Minsi. Douglas C. Meyer and Mark C. Hover...
Ruiz-Tolima Group, Central Cordillera. Paul Monohan, Mickey Nowak, Ollie Wallock, and I on January 3 climbed Nevado de Quindío, (c. 4800 meters, 15,748 feet) from the west, a new route. We reached the ridge crest at a break in the cornice, travers...
Echo Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers, 1979. I climbed solo the virgin east face of Echo Tower in March, 1979. It is virtually all artificial, every pitch A3 or harder. I spent 3½ days and one night on the wall. Descent was by rappelling, possible ...
Paria Point, South Face, The Futura Wall. Troy Anderson, Todd Stephens and Nathan Brown put up The Futura Wall (V 5.10 A3) on the south face of Paria Point from March 25-27. The climb begins 100 feet to the right of Wind, Sand and Stars. Descent w...