With both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia reports, we rely heavily on climbers to contact us as soon as they return in order to include their accounts in appropriate volumes of the Journal. This means we sometimes miss first-hand accounts. When po...
New York Section. In 2010 the New York Section of the American Alpine Club continued its upward trajectory as new records were set in terms of membership count and number and variety of events, both indoors and outdoors. Starting with the latter, ...
Yalungkang Tragedy. A nine-man Mexican expedition was led by José Manuel Casanova. They were on the south-face route of the Austro-German expedition of 1975. They established four high camps. Hugo Saldana and Alfonso Medina never returned from the...
Chopicalqui, West Face, Piece of Happiness. In July, I climbed a new route on the west face of Chopicalqui with Bostjan Perse. The name of the route is Piece of Happiness (D 80°, 500m). We started to climb at about 5400 meters and finished at 5900...
Illimani and Huayna Potosí. Although Illimani (21,201 feet) and Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet) have both been climbed by numerous parties, they were climbed in August for the first time by a woman, when the German Anneliese Stobl ascended them with L...
Everest West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Lluis Belvis, leader, Emili Civis, Manuel Mateu, Jordi Pons, Jaume Altadill, Oscar Cadiach, Narcis Serrat, Alfons Valls, Jordi Sugranyes, Xáxier Pérez Gil, Lluis Hortala, Josep Vidal Ponce...
Moose’s Tooth, Direct East Pillar (a.k.a. The Beast). On the 5,000-foot east face of the Moose’s Tooth, site of the historic The Dance of the Woo Li Masters (Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump, 1981), Bridwell and Spencer Pfingsten established the Direct...
Mongolian Altai. Interesting information has come to us from Ichiro Yoshizawa about a Japanese expedition which climbed in early August in the Mongolian Altai Range. Unfortunately the Editor does not have adequate maps to check spellings of peaks ...
Mount Redoubt, Northeast Face. Those who carefully appraise the big wall challenges of the North Cascades will likely agree that the most serious ice problems exist on Fury, Shuksan, Maude, and Redoubt. Of these, only Redoubt had not seen the cram...
Himàlaya e Karakorùm, by Mario Fantin. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano, 1978. 248 pages, 97 photographs, various maps.Mario Fantin, the well-known Italian authority on the mountains of the world, has given us an excellent and handsome book and a high...
Grandes Jorasses. The past summer witnessed a veritable epidemic of attempts to climb the north face of this mountain, at one point three different parties being on the peak at the same time. One of these attempts ended fatally when retreat was fo...
Sarapo Southwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Peruvian Alberto Callupe, Swiss Louis Deuber, Austrian Richard Franzl, German Hans Zebrowski and me. After trekking in the region, we established our Base Camp below Sarapo Qocha. Our objective wa...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 3, 1983, John Gorton (23) was climbing the rock face just below the balanced rock. He stated that he was using a Friend which he thought was in tight. He had been hangi...
A Progress in Mountaineering, by J. H. B. Bell. xii+424 pages, with a foreword by F. S. Smythe, 34 photographic illustrations, drawings by Joan Tebbutt, and maps and diagrams by Mrs. Bell. Edinburgh and London: Oliver and Boyd, 1950.Readers of the...
Torres de Paine, South Tower, Nearly Complete Ascent of West Face, 1987. We were Antonio Prestini, Lornza Bergamaschi, Enzo Parazzoli, Luciano Maiocchi, Elio Guastalli, Caterina Delle Mese and I as leader. We got to the “Italian Base Camp” on Dece...
HEART ATTACKNew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn October 26, 1985, James Baldwin (55) died of an apparent heart attack while at the belay point on the third pitch of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. He showed no signs of discomfort prior to his deat...
Gongga Shan Attempt. Canadians led by Roger Griffiths attempted the first-ascent route on Gongga Shan in the spring. They were plagued by bad weather, avalanches and an accident and did not reach the ridge. Details are lacking.
Artesonraju, northeast face. In June 2000 Spaniards Nemisio Matalobos and Angel Terrain established a ca 800-meter route rated alpine D (55 degrees) on the northeast face, which is accessed from the upper Santa Cruz Valley. The route lies between ...
Austrian Alps: Gross Glockner. An accident on this, Austria’s highest peak, was reported on 17 September 1949. It involved Michael Edison Sloane, of Llewellyn Park, New Jersey. It seems that this young student wandered away from a conducted tour a...
Climbs in the Franklin Mountains. During the first week of August, Bill Dougherty and I made a traverse and four ascents in the Chamberlin Spur. Our initial ascent was of Mount Chamberlin itself, which in a recent survey has regained its status as...