Thalay Sagar. An expedition from La Rioja was composed of Juan Carlos Bahillo, leader, Germán Bahillo, Francisco Claro, Ignacio Fermín Pascual, Santiago Palacios and Jordi Corominas. They climbed the American route on the west ridge, probably the ...
The Third American Ascent of Mont Blanc(George W. Heard, Jr.—1855)The manuscript which follows is the earliest hitherto unpublished account of an American ascent of Mont Blanc. Its author (1837-1905) was, in 1855, the youngest man ever to have att...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Early in 1956 the Sierra Nevada Section proposed that an informal A.A.C. camp be held in an effort to promote increased contact among club members. The Tetons were chosen as the site, because of their relatively conv...
DAVE BRIDGES 1970-1999“The only death you die is the death you die every day by not living. Dream big and dare to fail.”—Norman VaughanAdventure as an addiction, as a passionate need, true compassion for life on the “front lines”—there was no othe...
FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pinnacle GullyOn March 20, a group of three climbers fell while simul-climbing upper pitches of Pinnacle Gully. It was a very busy Saturday in Huntington Ravine. Temperatures Frida...
Alan Rouse: A Mountaineer’s Life. Geoff Birtles, compiler. Unwin Hyman, London, 1987. 224 pages, 9 color and 14 black and white photographs. $28.95.When viewed by the parochial American eye, most British climbing biographies chronicle remarkably s...
Revival of “Linda di Chamouni'’ at the MetropolitanThis opera, one of the few in Alpine setting, was the delight of our forefathers. Donizetti wrote it on command for production in Vienna in 1842, and it was given in London at Her Majesty’s Theatr...
Climbing Season in the Paine Group, 1994-95. [Because the American Alpine Journal goes to press before the complete record for the current season is on hand, we are very grateful to Chris Breemer for his information written at the beginning of Mar...
Mazeno RidgeNanga Parbat’s 10~kilometer ridge caps a multi~peak Pakistan Summer, albeit without an 8,000m summit.Doug ChabotSteve Swenson pulled a photo out of his back pocket. “We should do this,” he prodded, showing me the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge...
The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick Colton, Ed Douglas, Julian Freeman-Attwood, and Rob Greaves. In 2007 Colton and Freeman-Attwood had been part of a team tha...
RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR SLING CAME OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock.On April 17, Charles Comstock (34) and Jay Schifferdecker (27) hiked up the third-class approach ramps to the Chouinard-Herbert route...
Crescent Tower. On the Crescent Tower, Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic climbed a new route, West Side Story (270 meters, III 5.10a).Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije
Kangchenjunga, southwest face, partial new route/direct finish, La Luce del Nirvana. Of the five expeditions attempting 8,586m Kangchenjunga, two were successful with all summiteers reaching the top on the same day. Four of these teams were attemp...
Reru Valley, various ascents. In August nine young climbers from Geneva, with guides Stéfane Schaffer and I, climbed three new peaks in the Reru Valley. From Leh it took three days by vehicle to reach the village of Reru, from where we took horses...
The KarakoramWhatever your game, the Karakoram has itStephen Venables, EnglandThe Editor asked me to do something on “modern trends” on the smaller Karakoram peaks—a survey of the “small is beautiful” antidote to big-number ticking, with an emphas...
Changabang, west face, Boardman-Tasker Route, attempt. The boulders basked in the sun, 9½km of them, wave after wave of rock misery. Waiting. The chance of breaking an ankle, breaking a leg, or being trapped by two closing together like the doors ...
Nanda Devi East, Northeast Ridge Attempt and South Ridge Ascent. Our attempt on the northeast ridge of Nanda Devi East failed because a lack of snow gave rise to objective dangers. We moved to the south ridge and made the first alpine-style ascent...
Cerro Cuerno, Southwest Face, First Romanian Ascent. On February 19 and 20, C. Lacatusu and O. Batar made the first Romanian ascent of Cerro Cuerno (5462 m) via the southwest face with on bivouac 70 meters below the summit. It was a very nice rout...
Northern Cascades: (2) Snoqualmie Pass District, Washington. On 14 September 1947 a girl fell from Guye Peak while she was descending unroped, in the dark. She was seriously injured. She had done no previous climbing, and the two others in the par...
Matterhorn. During the summer of 1946 an additional ascent of the North Face was made. The full list is now as follows: (1) Franz and Toni Schmid, 31 July 1931; (2) Schmidbauer and Leis, 16-19 July 1934; (3) Dr. Bauer and Hermann Steuri, 24 July 1...