Mt. Alberta, West Face. I first saw a photo of the face in a 1989 Climbing magazine. A spectacular aerial shot showed a wall of black limestone topped by a dazzlingly white summit ridge, with a rare blue sky. A gothic flying buttress, rising grace...
FALL ON ROCK-JUMPED INSTEAD OF DOWN-CLIMBINGCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Matthes CrestOn August 2 5, Mark Sorenson (3 8) and David Parrish (3 8) were climbing Matthes Crest and were about at the halfway point when this acc...
Irish Expedition to Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. We spent a month at the head of Tasermiut Fjord near Cape Farewell. The area is not renowned for good weather, but eight fine days out of thirty must be a new low. Shay Billane and Lindsay Grif...
Kwangde South or Nupla. We made the first ascent of Kwangde South, climbing its northeast ridge. [The peak lies 3 kilometers southeast of the main peak. On Erwin Schneider’s map, Shorung/Hingu it is called Nupla.—Editor.] The climbing team include...
Hypoxia; Man at High Altitude. Edited by John Sutton, Norman Jones, and Charles Houston. Thieme-Stratton, New York, 1982. 210 pages. Many illustrations. $35.Hypoxia; Man at Altitude, like the preceding book, is a collection of papers given at the ...
Climbs in the High Sierra. The publication of R.J. Secor’s Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra stimulated both a significant amount of new-route activity and a reporting of older routes that were omitted from the new guidebook. Among the new routes...
British Columbia, Tantalus Mountains, Mt. Niobe. On 20 September Nigel Eggers (23) and the other 12 members of the party were practicing ice-ax arrests on hard snow. The immediate slope was steep, but the run out was ample; it was chosen specifica...
In a snowstorm at the start of the rainy season, Robert Rauch and Eduardo Unzueta (Bolivia) and I (U.S.) climbed new ground on Piramide Blanca. We climbed a two- or three-pitch variation to the current Southwest Face Direct. I say current becaus...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, "TOO RELAXED"Arizona, Cochise StrongholdEver since my fall I have been reliving the events of that day, but I have also been psychoanalyzing why I fell. I can still vividly see the fall. I have also po...
Koh-i-Morsurq and Other Peaks, Suigal. The members of the party were R.D. Barton, I.A. Napier, D.G. Peers, D. Robinson, J.G. Tyler and I. [.Editor’s note: All were first ascents except for those marked *, which indicates a new route, or marked **,...
El Monstruo, La Gran Raja. Jerzy Stefanski and I (both Polish) created a new line on the previously unclimbed east wall of El Monstruo. After transporting our equipment to Barranca Pass (sort of our advanced base camp), we descended the next morni...
Chomo Lönzö, Attempt. The object of the expedition was the first ascent of Chomo Lönzö’s Middle Peak via the southwest face and northwest ridge. We were Eduard Birnbacher (leader, Germany), Walter Hölzler and Stefan Wiebel from Germany and Manfred...
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAn eight-member expedition climbed from 7,200 feet to 14,200 feet in three days via the West Buttress. On May 14, eight days after the start of their climb, the expedition arrived at the...
Cerro Adela, Asamblea de Majaras. Alvaro Novellón, Oscar Perez, Santi Padrós, and I had hoped to climb Cerro Torre, going directly to the Col of the Hope via A la Recherche du Temps Perdu (Marsigny-Parkin) and continuing to the summit by the Ferra...
Norman Clyde of the Sierra Nevada, by Norman Clyde, with Foreword by Francis Farquhar, Prologue by Jules Eichorn, and a long letter by Smoke Blanchard. San Francisco: Scrimshaw Press, 1971. 180 pages, 20 photographsWe … proceeded down the canyon, ...
I’m not sure why I first visited the Karavshin, but since my first visit in 1998 I have returned four times. The place stays the same, yet with every visit I find something new. This year we went early and summited on June 30. I saw nothing famili...
Borkoldoj and Southern Kokshaal-Too, Pik 5,471 (Mt. Letavet), first ascent; Krylia Sovetov (Wings of the Soviets), second ascent. In the summer of 2003 our group—Mikhail Daineko, Dmitrii Konilov, Mikhail Ageev, Anna Perever-zeva, and myself as lea...
Manaslu 1952-3, by members of the Japanese Manaslu Expeditions. 217 pages in Japanese, 17 pages in English, with 124 photographs, 4 sketch maps, and 13 illustrations. Tokyo: The Mainichi Newspapers, 1954.During the past three years, Manaslu has qu...
Shri Parvat, attempt and Bhagat Peak, ascent. Rajesh Gadgil’s nine member team from Bombay planned to attempt the second ascent of the beautiful 6175m fluted snow peak, Shri Parvat, which rises from the Deo Dekhni Plateau west of Mana-Badrinath an...
On August 13 and l4 Andrzej Sokolowski and I established a new route on the north summit of Pik Vernyi. We had attempted this line in 2009, but near the end of the major difficulties, I was hit on the shoulder by a large chunk of ice that damaged ...