Spindrift avalanches pass the door of our snow cave. A grin grows wide on Ben Gilmore’s face as he raises his fist triumphantly. Two thousand feet up the Wall of Shadows we discovered this crystal cavern to enjoy shelter from the storm. We stumble...
Overview. Climbing activity in the Indian Himalaya has decreased. The number of both foreign and national expeditions was reduced. Fewer peaks are being attempted, especially the more challenging peaks and routes. One important deterrent is the un...
HimalchuliMichael YagerAN HOUR AFTER we had set up the tent and crawled inside, the wind picked up. While Pema began to boil water for drinks and tukpa (noodles), and to prepare his special sauce—a mixture of garlic and chilis used by Sherpas to p...
SETH SHAW1962-2000Seth Thomas “ST” Shaw and Tim Wagner had successfully climbed a new route on the east face/southeast couloir of Mt. Johnson in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range when, on an overcast rest day, the two set out for a bit of ice bou...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, POSSIBLE HASTEWashington, Beacon Rocks State ParkOn July 24, Nathan Turner (30) and his partner were in the second rappel of “Jill’s Thrill,” a common descent route for the area. The first rappel placed the tw...
DANIEL UNDERHILL1874-1951Daniel Underhill died suddenly on 1 July 1951 at Jericho, L. I., in the house where he was born 77 years ago. He was a direct descendant of Capt. John Underhill (fl. 1630) and Halen Kreuger. He was a graduate of Friends Ac...
Mountain Sheep and Man in the Northern Wilds, by Valerius Geist, Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1975. 248 pages, black and white photos, charts. Price: $10.00Why review a book on sheep in an alpine journal? Because the author has something very...
Nuptse (7,864m), south face, Are You Experienced? (not to summit). October 11: Here I am again at the base of the south face of Nuptse. I see the superb line of gullies that cuts through the bottom of the wall for more than 300m, then fades into t...
Light Weight Camping Equipment, by Gerry Cunningham and Meg Hans- son. Ward, Colorado: Highlander Publishing Company, 1959. 127 pages, numerous diagrams.This short, easily readable book contains a truly wonderful store of knowledge about camping e...
Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. E1 Niño gave northwest Montana the unusual mix of cold weather and little snow in November and December. As a result, most of the park roads were kept open, giving climbers easier access to several remote ba...
The North Face of Mount GeikieJohn R. Hudson"I am sure you have given me all the heaviest stuff," said Frodo. "I pity snails, and all that carry their homes on their backs”T. R. R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the RingIAPOLOGIZE, dear reader,for the...
Anderl Heckmair: My Life, Eiger North Face, Grand Jorasses and Other Adventures. Anderl Heckmair. Translated by Tim Carruthers. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2002. 304 pages. $24.95.While best known for his role in...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-761959-7619771977USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock14281277026Snow8001104135Ice25391River6111Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent11071325525Descent94691458Unknown1458164Immediate CauseFall or slip on ...
Bandaka Group. The members of the Japanese R.C.C. II* Expedition were Shigeo Yasukawa, leader, Shiro Shirahata, Takeshi Ishii, Hiroshi Hotta, Gaiki Ohashi, Kunio Nagasawa and myself as deputy leader. Our advance party, Ishii and I, arrived at Kabu...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ANCHOR SLING KNOT North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great ArchOn May 25, I was climbing at Stone Mountain, NC. Hoping to do some sport climbing (I read that the routes were sparsely bolted) I brought only a li...
Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find it as enthralling as 1 had imagined when as a young aspiring alpinist I read of the big undertakings on the great mountains of the E...
Flowers of the Western Himalayas. Rupin Dang. Indus, Harper Collins, NewDelhi, India, 1993. 140 pages, many color photographs.This is a guide to a small area of the Himalaya but it covers the territory often visited by naturalists, trekkers and to...
Up and Down California in 1S60-1864, the Journal of William H.Brewer. Edited by Francis P. Farquhar. Yale University Press, New Haven, 1930. Pp., 601 ; illustrations, 63; price, $6.00.During the past century American mountaineers have keenly follo...
Tuolumne Meadows. In Tuolumne Meadows, face-climbing standards are being pushed higher and higher. John Bacher has almost singlehandedly rewritten the rules in an area where the bolt is the most standard protection device; many of his climbs invol...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Arthur N. Plaxton (20), and Richard O. Parmelee (20), an employee at Jackson Lake Lodge, left a note at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at 7:30 a.m. on September 3. It stated that they were goi...