Chaukhamba I (7138m), attempts and tragedy. In May a 14-member team from Calcutta led by Brijes Dey attempted the north face of this high mountain, approaching from Badrinath and Mana. They found the huge face very avalanche prone, with many large...

Shivling. Our expedition was composed of Armando Della Valle, Mario Taller, Giordano Voltolini, Mauro Fioretta and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Topovan on October 9. After acclimatization climbs on lower slopes, we all started on October 1...

Exploration West of Paine Group, 1993. On February 5, 1985, I made the first ascent of Cerro Zapata (1530 meters, 5020 feet), west of Lago Pingo. Fascinated by the view, I was determined to come back to this area. In December 1993, I returned with...

Eastpost Spire, South Face. Urban Golob and Slavko Rozic (Slovenia) climbed a new route, Mountain Fairy Tale (300 meters, 5.9 A3) on the south face of Eastpost Spire and dedicated it to the late Vanja Furlan.Miha Peternel, Planinska zveza Slovenije

EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" East Tibet holds two principle mountain ranges, the Nyainqentangl...

Under the WeatherWhy is Scotland such a good training ground for much higher mountains? Perhaps because an average winter day in Scotland offers more adventure than a week of storms anywhere else.Simon RichardsonIt was past two in the afternoon, b...

Arizona Mountaineering Club. Our club had numerous outings throughout the year to Granite Mountain, Camelback Mountain, Pinnacle Peak, the McDowell Mountains and Little Granite Mountain. Our average climbing rating is 5.7, and the climbs are usual...

Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95.Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described tale of “Commitment on Steroids,” with selected insights into one of alpinisms m...

Solo Unsupported Continental Crossing. It was reported that Borge Ousland departed Antarctica’s Berkner Island in the Weddell Sea on November 15 and arrived at Ross Island’s New Zealand Scott Base in McMurdo Sound at 23:45 GMT, January 17, 1997, h...

AAC, Cascade Section. In 2003 the Cascade Section helped organize and sponsor two events in conjunction with a local web-based climbing group, cascadeclimbers.com. We also took part in a three-day mountaineering event hosted by REI in late Februar...

WANDA RUTKIEWICZ1943-1992The mountaineering world suffered in 1992 the loss of the greatest woman climber of all time. Wanda Rutkiewicz was last seen when she chose to bivouac alone several hours below the summit of K2 during the attempt to climb ...

On December 17, 2010, Darryl Kralovic and I climbed a previously unnamed peak in the Yulong Xueshan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain area of Lijiang county. The Yulong Xueshan massif has around 14 significant peaks over 5,000m, nearly all of which...

FALL ON ROCK—CHANGE OF PLANSWyoming, Devil’s Tower National MonumentOn August 21 at 1450, the Visitor Center received a report from Lucas Bannister that a climber was calling for help on the Southwest Buttress. I notified Ranger Fontaine to organi...

Climbing EthicsThis was written by the American Alpine Club and Mountain Tools, Inc. under the leadership of Sam Davidson. Many climbers contributed to its production.CLIMBING IN THE UNITED STATES is now a popular recreational activity. There are ...

Menamcho, attempt by northwest ridge; Kajaqiao, first ascent, via west face and northwest ridge. October 2005. Mick Fowler, Adam Thomas, Chris Watts, and I are stretched out on the dusty Tibetan tundra at the village of Tatse, not quite believing ...

Annapurna South Face, New Route. The members of the expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Zakopane, to the south face of Annapurna were Ryszard Szafirski, leader, Maciej Berbeka, Ryszard Gajewski, Zdislaw Kiszela, Maciej Pawlikowski, Boguslaw Probu...

Manamcho (6,264m), Peak 5,935m, first ascents. When I was climbing Kajaqiao in 2005, neighboring Manamcho looked so good that I had to go back to the Nyanchen Tanghla East. It’s not so much that the climbing is top quality, but that the overall mo...

International Mount McKinley Expedition. Our ascent of Mount McKinley, except for one variation, followed the West Buttress route pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1951. (A.A.J., 1952, 8:2). Our party, made up of Bob Elliott, Fergus O’Connor, Bruc...

Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Raindrops were falling at Kahiltna Basecamp the first week of May, as unusually and unpleasantly warm temperatures surprised early season climbers. Longtime mountaineers can’t recall a season so balmy, w...

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 8 at 0745, Scott McLeod (23) and Dana Drummond (age unknown) were ascending the North Chimney (II AI 1 5.6) on the East Face of Longs Pe...