Bhagirathi III (6454m), attempt. The four-man German team of Robert Jasper, Walter Hölzler, and Rainer Treppte with cameraman Jochen Schmoll planned to climb the true crest of the southwest pillar, left of the 1982 Barton-Fyffe Route. The climbers...
Shivling. Larry Stanier, Rob Orvig, Alison Andrews and I were settled into Base Camp at Topovan on September 22. We had intended to climb a direct finish on the north ridge of Shivling. However, recent heavy snowfalls and the huge overhanging summ...
Dhaulagiri, Post-Monsoon Northeast Ridge Attempts. There were five expeditions that attempted to climb the normal northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, but none succeeded. They were 5 Frenchmen led by Daniel Bianchi (high point: 7500 meters on September ...
Cristal, Cacique and Mascarello, Upsala Glacier. In early 1995, Rolando Garibotti, Ramón Calvo and Diego Luro had hoped to cross the Glaciar Upsala to climb Murallón, but they found the crevasses so wide that they gave up trying to cross and had t...
The Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford W. Ashley 4vo., 619 pages, fully illustrated. New York: Doubleday, Doran & Co., 1944. Price $7.50.If the would-be reader is told that close to 4000 knots are written up in this book, each with one or more ...
Traverse of Axel Heiberg Island, Northwest Territories. In July, 1995, the traverse of Axel Heiberg Island was accomplished between Mokka Fjord and Strand Fjord, crossing the Princess Margaret Range through the canyon lands and across the mesas an...
Exploring the Hidden Himalaya. Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia. Published for the Himalyan Club. Hodder & Stoughton, London. 1990. 171 pages, maps, black and white and color photographs. Hardbound £20.00.Exploring the Himalaya was written by a f...
From 2002–2009 a group of Spanish mountaineers, which at different times included three doctors (Miriam Ferrer, Marian García, and Guillermo Mañana), a climber and cameraman (Dani Salas), a climber and biologist (Elena Goded), a climber and geogra...
FALL/SLIP ON ROCK AND ICE AND NO BELAY—Wyoming, Grand Teton. Thomas Raymer (27), Jackson Hole Mountain Guide, was guiding Robert Slater down from the Upper Saddle of the Grand Teton. Weather was inclement with up to 4 inches of fresh snow and some...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONMaine, Mount Katahdin, Chimney PondOn September 2, two parties—Michael Lanza (34) and Penny Beach (29) in one group, Bill Mistretta (?), Rick Baron (30) and Diane Mailloux (24) in the other—were climbing simultaneously. ...
Mount Foster, First Ascent. In January, Bruce Dowrick, Dan Mannix, Roger Thompson and Greg Langreth made the first ascent of Mount Foster on Smith Island in the Shetland Islands of the Antarctic Peninsula. A full account of their ascent and the in...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Louise FallsOn February 14, T.T. was leading the final crux pitch of this popular Grade 4+ ice climb. He placed two or three ice screws above the belay on the steepest part of the pil...
Jack Lewis and I climbed the west ridge of the Broken Tooth, gaining the ridge from the southwest and making the third ascent of the peak. Our route is probably the easiest of the three routes that have been done. The major problem was the weat...
Annapurna, Winter Attempt. The Japanese climber, Naoe Shaka- shita, made a reconnaissance for his planned winter ascent of Annapurna in October 1980 but he fell into a crevasse, breaking his thumb, and could not return until late January, rather t...
Mount Fairweather, East-Southeast Ridge and “Sabine.” Gaping crevasses made it impossible to land near our chosen objective. A snap, mid-air decision left us at the base of an ideal consolation prize, the unclimbed east-southeast ridge of Fairweat...
Lingti and Shilla Valleys, Spiti. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Mountaineers of Bombay, Zerksis Boga, Arun Samant, Muslim Contractor, Bhupesh Ashar, Shekhar Jaywant, Gaurang Bhatia and I explored the unvisited Lingti valley and Shilla ...
Ski Traverse of the Great Himalaya Range from Ladakh to Kashmir. During March Jay Jensen, Gordon Wiltsie and I made a successful 75 kilometer ski trek from Panikhar in Ladakh to Kashmir. After a spectacular plane flight from Srinagar to Leh, a sti...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1936To supplement the record of previous climbing seasons before reporting new ones, note that in September 3rd, 1935, a first ascent of Spearhead (12,500 ft.), in Rocky Mountain National Park, was made by Charles Buckingh...
K2 Attempt and Tragedy. Our joint expedition was led by Japanese Kenshiro Otaki with Pakistani Sher Khan as deputy. Other members were Japanese Takeo Ishiwatari, Akiro Suzuki, Kaoru Nagaota, Fumihide Saito, Tetuei Hanzawa, Akihiko Sugawara, Hirosh...
Lhotse South Face, Solo Winter Attempts. There were two separate unsuccessful attempts made by Frenchmen to climb the south face of Lhotse in winter. On November 29, Marc Batard reached 7000 meters before giving up. Accompanied by Catalán Enric Lu...