Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Chile

Central Chile. The 1964 climbing season witnessed the conquest of most of the peaks over 13,000 feet that remained unclimbed, particularly in the Rancagua and Colchagua districts. The main expeditions in Central Chile were the following: by Club M...


In Memoriam AAJ
Kenneth Atwood Henderson, 1907-2001

Kenneth Atwood Henderson 1907-2001Mt. Rainier, Pinnacle Peak, Unicorn Peak, and Castle Rock in the Cascades. Yukness, Odaray, Huber, Victoria, Lefroy, Mumm, Whyte, Thompson, and The Mitre in the Canadian Rockies. In Chamonix: Aiguille de I’M by th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Sajama, Southwest Face

Sajama, Southwest Face. A Chilean expedition including N. Muñoz, R. Lamillay and C. Sepúlveda travelled from Arica, on the Pacific, to Sajama, Bolivia’s highest mountain. The group crossed the international frontier by the Tambo Quemado pass and a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), First and Second Ascents

Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of Dogonomba, which lies on the main ridge immediately south of Reddomain. Loehr had been guiding an American Alpine Inst...

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| Published N/A | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Inglefield Mountains

Inglefield Mountains. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club, was the third in a series organized by one of us (Cochran) that has been aimed at exploratory mountaineering around Makinson Inlet in southeast Ellesmere Island. The first (Au...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, East Face of Day Needle, Mount Whitney

East Face of Day Needle, Mount Whitney. The majestic east face of Mount Whitney and its flanking cirque walls present a striking balance of architectural form with the pyramidal main face and the two parallel buttresses of Day and Keeler Needles. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Ocshapalca, South Face, Carás I, South Face and Other Peaks

Ocshapalca, South Face, Carás I, South Face and Other Peaks. Our group of Swiss were Vincent Banderet, Rafaël Rabout, André Duffey, Paula Scherer and I. In Huaraz we were joined by three Canadians, Jocelyn Ouellet and Isabelle and Thierry Legouis....


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Washington, Cathedral Rock

FALLING ROCK Washington, Cathedral RockAbout 10:30 a.m. on September 23, our party was proceeding up to the chockstone on the Northwest couloir on Cathedral Rock. I was leading the party approximately 50 feet ahead, in order to determine the rope-...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappelled Off End of Rope—Technique (Speed and Control), North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park

RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE—TECHNIQUE (SPEED AND CONTROL)North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn January 1 Nathan Lane (23), with the U.S. Army, was being video taped in the Amphitheater to see how fast he could descend via “Australian Rappel” (...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, New Zealand, Autumn 2006-Autumn 2007, Barron Saddle—Mt. Brewster Region, Summary

Barron Saddle – Mt. Brewster Region, summary. With plums still to be picked, this extensive and remote mountain tract between the Aoraki Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring areas has seen continued activity from a motivated few. Guidebook author Ross Cullen...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ikamiut Fjord, West Greenland

Ikamiut Fjord, West Greenland. Our expedition comprised eight members of St. Andrews University, Scotland, led by Dr. Philip Gribbon. The others were Dr. Iain Smart, Bill Leddingham, Chris Doake, Jimmy Gilchrist, Ron Hilditch, Stuart Haworth and M...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Mt. McKinley (2)

Alaska, Mt. McKinley (2). The British Joint Service Expedition of six men had reached 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route of Mt. McKinley on about June 25. Camp had been established and the party was ready to proceed to the summit. John H. Oldh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcanota and Carabaya, Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota

Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota. From July 6 to 24 Monsieur J. and Mme S. Badier, M. Berquet, J. R. Bertucca, Mme N. Casile, G. Cerruti, C. Choquet, Dr. M. and Mme A. Drevet, Mile M. F. Gay, Mile L. Laporte, M. So...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Nanda Devi East Attempt and Tragedy

Nanda Devi East Attempt and Tragedy. The British Garhwal Himalayan Expedition to Nanda Devi comprised Alan Kimber, David Challis, William (Ben) Beattie, Andrew Wielochowski, David Nottidge and me as leader. We suffered three major set-backs: (1) s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Cube Point, Southwest Apex

Cube Point, Southwest Apex. Barry Corbet and Chuck Satterfield on September 4, 1966, climbed this new II, F8, A2 route on the familiar Cube Point. From the main Symmetry Couloir the base of the climb was reached via the subsidiary couloir leading ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, The Desert, Various Activity

The Desert, various activity. Eric Bjørnstad reports that three previously unclimbed towers saw ascents in the fall:Tchaikovsky Overture (425', IV 5.11 A3, Dave Mealey and Joe Slansky) is located southeast of Moab, on the Wingate Sandstone between...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Sakht

Kohe Sakht. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kohe Sakht (18,964 feet; Wala Zebak Peak 57) by the northwest spur. We were Mesdames J. Gaillard and A. Sandoval and Messieurs J. Lacouture, C. Macouin, D. Métayer, J.M. Poirier, Y. Racault, Dr. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat North, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat North, Diamir Face. Our expedition was organized by the Section for High-mountain Research of the Slovak Geographical Society and the Sports Club lames in Bratislava. The scientific research team studied the adaptation to high altit...

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| Published 1978 | Author Marián Šajnoha


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Lone Mountain

Lone Mountain. On December 12, Jerry Kanzler, Ray Martin, Clare Pogreba, Peter Lev and I climbed the north face of Lone Mountain, a graceful peak near Bozeman, which stands aloof like an Oregon volcano. The main weakness in the 1100-foot face of s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988

Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988. During the summers of 1985 through 1988, I and others have made several easy to moderate routes in the central Brooks Range. All routes were done in free time from work on a biological research project. The routes ...