Killabuk and Other Peaks. A Belgian expedition led by Alain Grignard seems to have run into very poor weather from July 7 to 24. On July 7 J.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand, E. Blanc (Swiss), and B. Legros climbed the east face of Mount Killabuk by the di...
Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju. The Alpine Club Impol of Slovenska Bistrica expedition was composed of Ivan Šturm, Marjan Frešer, Francek Knez, Janko Korent, Matjaž Peckovnik, Milan Romih, Dani Tic and Dr. Tone Žuntar. On June 4 Knez and...
Ishinca and Ranrapalca, Cordillera Blanca. In late April two friends from the University of British Columbia, Hamish Mutch and Gordon Dunham, turned up in Lima. Here was an opportunity to visit the range in the off-season. We decided on the Quebra...
Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir. In May, Travis Michaelis, Abe Dickerson, and I made the first complete ascent of the 1,200-foot White Line Couloir, on Peak 11,308' (2.3 miles sou:hwest of Borah Peak, in the Lost River Range). I previously climb...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Dragon PeakOn August 19,1981, Bruce Dyer (24) went on a solo backpacking and fishing trip to the lake east of Dragon Peak. He was not known to be a climber but evidently found he had time to sp...
Dunagiri Tragedy. Karl (“Chip”) Ketron and Brad Shaver made a five-day alpine ascent of Dunagiri (23,184 feet), reaching the summit on October 18. Tragedy struck during the descent. It is impossible to be sure just what happened, but from what Ind...
It was reported that Nyama Gyaltsen from Burma and Takashai Ozaki from Japan made the successful first ascent of Hkakbo Razi (5,881m, a.k.a. Hkakabo Razi), the previously unclimbed highest summit of Burma and the mountain marking the easternmost p...
“Continental Tower” Wind River Range. While hiking from Little Sandy Lake to the western shoulder of Wind River Peak near the southern end of the range, Bob Stevenson and I camped below several magnificent granite towers, of whose existence I had...
P 9385, University Range, Wrangell Mountains. From August 1 to 8, Bob Jacobs and I led Randy and Kathy Haines, Seth Moshman and Marvin Srulowitz to the Twaharpies Glacier area of the University Range. On August 1 we flew to the Glacier Creek landi...
Shield, The Promise Land. On Oct 3, 2004, Carolyn Parker and I completed the first ascent of our big-wall project, The Promise Land (V 5.12c), which climbs a l,200'-tall section of the Shield s southwest face. The Shield, in the Sandia Mountains, ...
Tukuche, Southwest Ridge. A Japanese expedition was led by Tatsuo Morimoto, who stayed in Base Camp, and the climbing leader, Shuichi Torii. On September 28 Torii, five other Japanese and two Sherpas reached the summit from Camp II via a new route...
Mount Moran, Direct North Face. Because of a lack of equipment, the party which made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Moran in 1962 avoided the chimneys which lead directly to the north summit and form the most obvious line on the face....
Dave Adams, Don Goodman, John Petroske and I climbed this new route on June 25 and 26. We approached from the Lightning Creek trailhead at Ross Lake, hiking east to just beyond Willow Lake, where we left the trail. We bashed our way through a tang...
HAR Pinnacle, First Ascent, and Latok I, Attempt. Our expedition consisted of John Bouchard, Barry Rugo, Tom Nonis, and me. We had two permits, one for the often-attempted north ridge of Latok I (7145m) and one for the south pillar of the Ogre (Bi...
Where The Clouds Can Go. The Autobiography of Conrad Kain. Edited, with additional chapters by J. Monroe Thorington. 480 pages ; 20 illustrations. 1935. $3.00.
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Deville GlacierOn May 6, B.E. (48) fell 60 feet to his death in a crevasse in the Selkirk Mountains while ski touring on the Deville Glacier in Glacier National Park. B.E. and fou...
Nampa Attempt. Our party included Susan Billings, Nancy Neiley, Jerry and Paul Sibley, Dr. Alan Sudweeks, Chuck Tolton, Matt Wells, Mark Udall and me as leader. Dr. Sudweeks had the misfortune to injure his knee on the approach and had to return t...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Buttress. Bob Barton and I established Base Camp on the meadows at Tapovan at 14,750 feet on September 11 after a day-and-a-half walk-in from the roadhead at Gangotri. In three days more we stocked and occupied Advanced B...
ROBERT LOCKWOOD LIPMAN1894-1968Bob Lipman joined the American Alpine Club in 1927. Most of his climbing experience was in the Sierra Nevada of California, although he climbed the Grand Teton in 1926, when such, a feat was a rarity. In the Sierra h...
The Obelisk, West Face. The Obelisk is an outstanding reddish monolith near the rim of the middle fork of the Kings River, just east of Spanish Mountain. On June 6, Hooman Aprin and I found an interesting new route, the west face. Some seven pitch...