Shani, Naltar Valley. Our expedition had as climbers Duncan Francis, Martin Oakes and me, as well as support members. Having arrived at Naltar by jeep, on July 29 and 30 we walked to Base Camp in the upper Shani valley by the Shani Glacier at 3700...
Lopsang Peak. Like most expeditions this year in the Baltoro Glacier area, we ran into problems. The sudden opening of the region brought a flood of expeditions, overtaxing the limited facilities. The porters took full advantage of the seller’s ma...
La Academia Nacional de Alta Montaña (National High Mountain Academy) has recently been organized under the auspices of the Federación de Andinismo y Excursionismo de Chile. This group, not unlike the American Alpine Club in its aims, hopes to rai...
Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko, two of Japan's premier alpinists, climbed Gyachung Kang (7,985m) via the Slovenian Route this October. They arrived at base camp on October 5 and proceeded to an advanced base camp at the foot of the Sloveni...
Un Pionero de Bariloche: Otto Meiling. Vojslav Arko. Bavaria y Cía., Bar- iloche, Argentina, 1991. 125 pages, 58 black-and-white illustrations, 6 sketch-maps. Paperback.Sitting at the gates of Argentinian Patagonia, Bariloche (population: 100,000)...
Mount Crillon, West Ridge. Terry Cline, Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell and I left Lituya Bay in early July and on July 6 after several days of packing loads through the endless moraine of the North Crillon Glacier established Base Camp in the cirque b...
SLIP ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, AND INEXPERIENCE—British Columbia, Mount Robson, Kain Face. Brian Darragh, Claude Ribordy, Jan Straith, Frank Campbell, and Robin White were descending the ridge bordering the Kain Face of Mt. Robson on July 30 due to bad ...
South Early Winter Spire, Southeast Face. In July, 1977 Duane Constantino and I completed in a single day a route which I had begun a year earlier on the southeast face of South Early Winter Spire. The route begins just right of the center of the ...
Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), attempt. In November two members of a Romanian team led by Constantine Lacatusu were the first to climb on to Janak above the upper plateau of the Broken Glacier. This summit west of Jongsang was referred to as Outli...
Nanga Parbat. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Jordi Bosch, Pep Permañé, Ramón Estiu, Xavier Robiró, Iñaki Garijo and me as leader. We climbed the Kinshofer route on the Diamir flank. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II, III and IV at 4...
Chaukhamba II, Chaukhamba I, and Unnamed Peak, First Ascents. An expedition mounted by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, and led by Col. M.P. Yadav succeeded in climbing to the summits of Chaukhamba I (7068 meters) via the southwe...
Packrat, North Face. Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I made the first ascent of the north face of Packrat on September 21. From the center of the base of the face we worked our way up angling ledge systems to the base of the largest slab, which we by...
Peak 11,598, East Face and Peak 11,830, East Ridge. There was a definite allure about the sound of Big Bird Lake; we might be carried off by a pterodactyl, and besides there were supposed to be some good climbs in the area. Greg Henzie, Galen Rowe...
Alpine Club of Canada. Following are highlights of the A.C.C.’s 1989 achievements. In the facilities area, 1989 marked the completion of the Wapta Icefields project, whose centerpiece was the July construction of the new Bow Hut. This project repr...
To the North Pole Solo. The Japanese Naomi Uemura made a solo dog-team trip from Ellesmereland to the North Pole, which he reached on April 30. He was supported by aircraft which then airlifted him back to his base and then to the northern tip of ...
Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition consisted of Takeo Suzuki, leader; T. Kondo, Y. Kadota, T. Kiyohara, A. Ban, K. Jokei and S. Sasaki. We tried to climb Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) from the south ridge and reached the height of 18,850 ...
William (Bill) Hearrell Robins 1957-2002Bill Robins, 45, died on July 7 while attempting a technical climb on the northeast face of Bolivia’s 17,159-foot Pyramide Blanca of the Cerro Condoriri group.Bill was born on July 3, 1957, in Salt Lake City...
Torre Egger Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Aldo Gross and composed of 16 guides from the Fassa valley failed to climb a new route, the east face of Torre Egger in December, 1976.
Chimborazo, Lesser Summits. The two easternmost peaks of Chimborazo had remained so far unclimbed. They were traversed on May 20, 1979 by the Ecuadorians W. Villacís and O. Omar, of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army. These summits re...
Mt. Amulet, North Face. Heading east on the Glenn Highway, there is a great clump of peaks to the south across the Matanuska River opposite the Victory Bible Camp. The Spectrum Glacier that Monument Creek flows from has been visited often in the p...