California, Yosemite National Park, North Face of Rostrum. On 13 September Tim Auger (23), and Neil Bennett (21), were climbing Rostrum. From a belay ledge, Tim placed two aid pins and then started up a layback crack, carrying two pins on slings i...
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slalok MountainIn late September, 1988, Kirby Inwood, an inexperienced climber in his early 30’s, was on Slalok Mountain, a 2650 meter peak about 30 kilometers east of Pember...
Matterhorn (A. A. J.,ii, 510). William Oxnard Moseley. Dr. Claude Wilson, former President of the A. C., writes : “I, with my brother and two guides made the ascent on August 22nd, and F. Morshead with Melchior Anderegg started with us to recover ...
Cascade Peak, East Ridge. On July 27, Mike Anthony and I completed a first ascent of the east ridge of the peak in beautiful weather. The climb was class 4 and 5 on very crumbly, rotten rock. Our ascent was the sixth registered ascent of the peak....
Mount Baring and Dolomite Tower, 1992. Dolomite Tower is a 1300-foot- high vertical pillar of very fine, compact metamorphic rock adjacent to Mount Baring in the North Cascades. In June of 1992,I climbed over four days a rib on the right side of t...
Cardinal Peak, Chelan Range. This 8595-foot summit in the northern Chelan Range, which parallels the western shore of Lake Chelan, was finally climbed by Burr Singleton, Don Avery and W. A. Gilbaugh in late June. Five earlier attempts over a perio...
Tapie Shikhar, First Ascent. Not far south-southwest of Drohmo is the 6341-meter mountain generally known as Cross Peak (its Nepalese name is Taple Shikhar). The mountain had been attempted only once before, by Japanese in 1963; it is not at the p...
SOLO SCRAMBLING, STRANDEDAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount RundleOn September 6, WM was hiking near Banff and headed up the side of Mount Rundle. He climbed up an old streambed and eventually got to the point where he then climbed up difficult terr...
Broad Peak. Aside from the Swiss team led by Bruno Honneger and the Catalans led by Josep Estuch, no other expedition to Broad Peak was successful in 1987. The following expeditions had to abandon their attempts, mostly because of bad weather and ...
Everest Attempt. The members of our expedition were French Annie Dubois, Jean François Rouys, Americans Alain Hirsch, Jay Sieger and I as leader. We tried the South Col route. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 5400, 6000, 6450, ...
Snowpatch Spire, East Face, Deus ex Machina Route, Bugaboos. On August 4 to 6, 1974 Mike Jefferson, Dennis Saunders and I did this new route, beginning in an F9 off-width crack a few hundred feet north of the Chouinard route and directly below the...
Pik Unmarked Soldier, China View. In the summer of 2001, we put up a previously unreported route on Pik Unmarked Soldier (5,322m). “China View” ascends the east face on snow and ice to the right of the main gully (560m, 50° to 70°).Irena Mrak, Slo...
Annapurna IV Attempts. A student from Osaka, Japan, Koichi Sugiyama, with Kami Tshering Sherpa, climbed to 6480 meters via the northwest ridge. They gave up on September 7 due to adverse weather. A South Korean Buddhist monk, Rim Jong-Bum, with fi...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 1, 1988, Mark Gable (21) suffered lacerations and abrasions when he fell six meters from a climb on the South Face of East Bluff near the Devil’s Doorway. Other climber...
Cimes et Visages du Haut Dauphiné, by Felix Germain. 185 pages, including 110 photographs in black and white, 16 in color, and 17 vignettes, one map and a circular panorama with key. Paris: Arthaud, 1955.An excellent picture-book of Dauphiné, with...
Climbing in Albania. In the summer of 1993, three climbers, Adriano Marini, Mario Vannuccini and I, and three scientists, Fabio Penati, Paride Dioli and Angelo Zilio, spent 12 days in the northern range of the Albanian Alps, in the Theth valley. P...
Gangstang, South Ridge. Thirteen Bengalis were led by Amulya Sen. Base Camp was at 4490 meters. On August 17, Tushar Deb Tapadar, Goutam Ghosh, Sandip Sarkar and Tapan Sarkar with high-altitude porters Jeevan Lal and Alam Chand Thakur left Camp II...
The Incredible Hulk, West Face, Polish Route. In August Bob Harrington and I climbed this excellent eight-pitch route. When viewing the west face from Little Slide Canyon, our route follows the continuous “stoveleg-like” cracks that split the narr...
Burkett Needle, Southeast Ridge. Greg Collum, Greg Foweraker, and I helicoptered in from Petersburg to the Baird Glacier on the evening of May 3 and set up our basecamp. The next day we packed a load of gear to the foot of the Needle and began pre...
STRANDED, UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn October 15, rescuers were notified that two overdue climbers, Nicholas Kainrath (22) and Bryan Karban (23), were stranded on a rock climb in the Canyon. A search was started a...