Washington, Cliff Above Yale Dam—On March 1, late in the afternoon of a sunny day, Charles Haas (17) and Darrell Jones (18) decided to climb the cliff above the Pacific Power and Light Company’s powerhouse at the Yale Dam, Washington. Having no pr...
Red Rocks, Various Activity. Due the vastness of the area and the cracks and faces that characterize these pinnacles, several new routes have been added to the throng of classics gracing Red Rocks’ flame-colored features. Roxanna Brock and Gary Fi...
The Sphinx. A second ascent of the very airy S. or skyline ridge was made by Hans Kraus, Delphine Wilde and Roger Wolcott on 11 August 1946, from a bivouac on upper Dinwoody Glacier. A partially new traverse, beginning near the S. end of the E. fa...
Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement. On January 10, 2006 Whit Magro and I climbed the stupendous frozen waterfall, Losar, which lies directly opposite Namche Bazaar. After 1½-hour approach, we took nine hours to reach the top, sim...
Gasherbrum I. A Japanese expedition led by Naoyuki Saeki hoped to climb a new route on the north face of Gasherbrum I. After an eight-day approach from Askole, they established Base Camp, Camps I and II at 5100, 5900 and 6450 meters on July 3, 10 ...
Maine, Monhegan Island Cliffs. On August 18, J. Robert Hamilton (36) and Fred Newcombe were doing a number of practice climbs on the cliffs of Monhegan Island. In mid-afternoon Hamilton was leading the second pitch of a climb. Newcombe, as belayer...
Merra, second known ascent, new route. During their acclimatization for Jannu, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an ascent of 6,334m Merra in the Anidesh Himal directly north of the Kumbhakarna Glacier. The mountain received its first known a...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDED,Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount HaddoOn July 21, after completing the North Glacier Route on Mounts Haddo and Aberdeen, a party of four began descending the “easy” south face of Mount Haddo as described in a lo...
Peaks Above the Matanuska Valley. Greg Higgins, Tom Choate and I made several climbs from the Matanuska Glacier from July 15 to 20. On July 16, we climbed Mount Wickersham (7415 feet) from the southeast, finding only two entries in the summit jar:...
Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Tempest. With a storm parked over most of the Cascades, I convinced Sol Werkin to change plans and head to the Enchantments, one of the driest spots in the range. Equipped with a full set of aid gear and extra clothing,...
Rock Climbs in Central Chile. Columbians Luis Andrés Romero and Marcelo Arbelaez made a new route in December 1982 on the south face of San Gabriel, 40 miles from Santiago in the Cajón del Maipo. This is probably the best rock climb in the Santiag...
On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of Chamberlin. Innominata (5.11 A1) is mostly free, with two points of aid, and climbs all independent terrain. It starts with two ...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. It was reported that in September, 1995, the French team of P. Caribo, J.P. Calvet and A. Robert spent three weeks in the Ak-Su Valley, repeating Perestroika Crack on Slessova Peak after two days of preparation. The ...
Aconcagua, Descent by Parachute. A Frenchman, Alain Estève, first climbed Aconcagua solo but failed after four hours of effort to take off by a special kind of parachute (parapente). On January 10, accompanied by other French climbers, he returned...
Kabru Dome, Forked Peak and Rathong. An Indian Army expedition led by Major K.V. Cherian climbed these three peaks in western Sikkim. After establishing two high camps, they climbed Kabru Dome (6600 meters, 21,655 feet) on May 15 and Forked Peak (...
Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation before retreating due to a lack of bolts. Mike Jauregui and I returned the following month to complete the clim...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FRIEND PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-SHOES Arizona, Oak Creek CanyonOn October 1, 1986, Mark Monroe (26) and Carol Williams (26) were making an ascent of “Geology Sign Crack” (5.8), which was in good ...
A seven-man Polish expedition led by Bogumil Slama finally made the first ascent of Arjuna, which has been attempted various times in the last years. The climbers have compared Arjuna’s west face to the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. After es...
Viking’s Shield Wall, solo first ascent. From August 15 to September 7 Mike Libecki made a solo first ascent of the 4,000-foot Viking’s Shield wall, establishing Giving Birth to Reason (VI 5.10b A3+). See his lead story earlier in this Journal for...
Sangmissoq. Our French expedition climbed Sangmissoq (2060 meters, 6759 feet) on the south shore of Evinghedsfjord. The first ascent had been made by the Gréloz Franco-Swiss party in 1958. There was a crumbling cairn on the summit. The only other ...