Southwestern Colorado was again the center of considerable climbing activity as well as the location of the first work of the San Juan Mountaineers Geological Survey. The Sneffels section was that covered by the survey (yet incomplete). An interes...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Hans Petter Aas, Ole Mentzoni, Morten Ros trup, Harold Braendshøi and I arrived at the Diamir Base Camp on July 10 after four days of dealing with 50 porters, heavy rucksacks and a hot, dry desert. After four more days, ...
HIT BY AVALANCHE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Fisher Peak. Chris Sadleir and Bob Bauman (23) and Mavis Bauman were approaching the summit of Fisher Peak on June 6, 1976, when a warm front engulfed the mountain and raised the air temperature ...
To the Very SummitSilvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino ItalianoAS MOUNTAIN CLIMBING develops, more and more ethical questions arise nowadays in the mountaineering world. Having become a mass sport, climbing has shoved aside or changed earlier st...
Chopicaliqui, West Face; Yerupaja Sur, West Face; Yerupaja Grande, Ascent and Tragedy. It was reported that Germans Mario Witte and Falk Liebstein climbed two difficult routes in the Andes. First the team summited Chopicaliqui (6345 m). It took Li...
Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World, The Official History. George Band. New York: Barnes & Noble, 2003. (In association with the Mount Everest Foundation, the Royal Geographical Society, and the Alpine Club, London.) 256 pages. Hardcover. $1...
The Climbers—A History of Mountaineering. Chris Bonington. BBC Books and Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1992. 288 pages, 40 color photographs, 102 black-and-white photographs, maps and diagrams. £16.95.Chris Bonington is well acquainted with the ...
Athahra Saya Khola Himal (Mountain of 1,800 Rivers) is a bizarre name, one that evokes the feeling of a faraway place, a mythical wonderland of Buddhist culture, exotic. This is the name we gave to a previously unclimbed 6,767m summit on the Tibet...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite, Lembert DomeI climbed a 5.9 variant of a 5.6 route. I went over the crux successfully, but ran out too far right on 5.6 slope. I place two nuts in...
Mt. Woodrow Wilson. A new ascent of this peak was made by Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott and C. Harrison Snyder on 20 August 1946. The ascent was by way of the sheer S. face (central rib) from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. The climb was reported as a d...
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Canadian Route Variation. In late May Tim Gage, 17-year-old Markus Hutnak and I returned to attempt McKinley’s Wickersham Wall. We were successful in climbing a new variation of the Canadian route (A.A.J., 1964, pa...
Sometimes a scene remains indelibly imprinted on one’s mind. On April 5, 2002 I came across such a scene. I was in central China, cresting a 4,500-meter col (in a bus!) when a range of spiky mountains became visible. They were impressive enough fo...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyThe four-member “Savoyards” Climbing expedition (a group from France) registered in the spring of 1980 to make a traverse of Mount McKinley—ascending the West Buttress route and descending the Muld...
Mt. Russell, North Ridge. On March 2-7, Colby Coombs, Caitlin Palmer, Meg Perdue and I flew to Mt. Russell in the Alaska Range. Colby, Meg and I made the sixth ascent of Mt. Russell, the fourth ascent of the North Ridge, and the second ascent in w...
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] The Cascades saw a fairly typical year of new route activity, with notable winter ascents, ski descent...
Annapurna III, Southeast Buttress Attempt. The expedition members were Tim Leach, leader, Steve Bell and I. We reached Base Camp in ten days from Pokhara via the top village of Imu. This was the first time an expedition had been to that side of th...
On July 20, Chris Van Leuven and I were dropped off in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. We spent 11 days in the Cirque, during which we climbed the Lotus Flower Tower, before we were flown into the Ragged Range for...
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance,1935. Tony Astill. Foreword by Lord Hunt. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Southhampton: Les Alpes Livre, 2005. 359 PAGES, NUMEROUS BLACK & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 2 FOLDING MAPS PLU...
During the first week of August of 1986, Steve Petro and I made the first ascent of the east face of Cloud Peak. The face is about 1,000 feet high and consists of generally smooth solid granite with several ledge and dihedral systems. The route be...
Peak 11,520’, north face to summit ridge; and Mt. Huntington. Around 10 p.m. on May 17 Patricia Deavoll, Anna Keeling, Scott Simper, and I flew onto the Tokositna Glacier. By 3 p.m. May 18, all four of us had reached the summit of Huntington via t...