FALL ON SNOW/ICE, SKI MOUNTAINEERINGOregon, Mount HoodOn June 15, while ski traversing the Coe glacier at about the 9500-foot elevation, Robert Wiebe (58) went out ahead of his two companions and apparently slipped during a turn. Another party of ...
LightningOne phase of this ever-interesting subject to the mountaineer has been taken up by Prof. E. Mathias in a recent issue of La Montagne (March, 1933) in an article on “Les phénomènes de la foudre ascendante et globulaire dans les montagnes e...
Xuelian Feng, Tien Shan. The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club sent its fourth expedition to attempt Xuelian Feng with me as leader. Expeditions in 1986, 1988 and 1989 had managed to find the route to the south side of the mountain and had...
Washington, Glacier Peak—Chocolate Glacier—On the Mountaineer Summer Outing, July 30, during the descent of Chocolate Glacier, Julie Balinski (33), while traversing between two crevasses, stepped backward and fell into the lower one. Her fall was ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Missouri, Mark Twain South County Bank. Evelyn F. Mooers (54) fell 40 feet to her death during a rappelling exercise. A group of ten bank officials and friends were present. Police said she had attached her cl...
EQUIPMENT FAILURE—WIRED NUT BROKE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 6, about 1900, Baek Man (27) was leading the pitch off Camp 5 on the Nose, using aid. He had placed a few pieces of protection and ...
Everest, Post-Monsoon Attempts from the North. None of the expeditions that attempted Everest via the North Col in the post-monsoon was successful. Six Italians and four Swiss, led by Aldo Verzaroli, got to 7600 meters on September 30. From an exp...
Jacob’s Chair, Fry Canyon Area. Jacob’s Chair, a 270-foot Wingate sandstone tower in south-central Utah, north of Highway 95, was first ascended by George Hurley and Bill Forrest in November, 1976. It is a previously unreported climb. The monolith...
FAILURE OF BOLT ANCHORAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainCameron Cairns (20) and Randy Clark (24) had climbed Cascade waterfall on 3 March 1978 and were rappeling down it. Cairns descended about 30 meters to easy slopes. Clark followed him,...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, and STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn July 19, a party of two (both 38) were ascending the Northeast Ridge ofMount Athabasca, when they encountered technical, e...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. George Durand, Gilles Percia and I followed the Paragot-Seigneur route of 1966 on Huascarán Norte’s north face from July 1 to 3. We were to the right of Casarotto’s and left of the Belgian Johan de Skipper’s route. The...
Notch Peak is located approximately 45 miles west of Delta on U.S. 6/50. Directions to it are given in James Garrett’s Ibex and Selected Climbs of Utah’s West Desert. Dave Shewell and I climbed Appetite for Destruction (IV 5.11 A0 or 5.12-) on Not...
East Peak, Black Butte near Mount Baker. On May 4, after deciding that rotten rock ruled out an attempt on the unclimbed Roman Nose (northwest arête) of Mount Baker, Fergus O’Conner and Edward Cooper turned to the unclimbed ice wall rising between...
Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Solo Ascent, and Fifth Man to Climb all 14 8000ers. It was reported that Krzysztof Wielicki “led” a 10-member international expedition to Nanga Parbat, though he was still on K2 [see Climbs and Expeditions: Tibet] wh...
Whitesaddle Mountain, North Face. In July, Reed Tindall and I made the first climb of spectacular Whitesaddle Mountain from the north. The mountain, so visible and prominent from Bluff Lake and the upper valley of Moseley Creek, has seen only a fe...
Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to serac base. On May 13 Gilly James and I climbed a gully on a west-facing buttress of the Bear Tooth [located to the right of the prominent hanging glacier southwest of the Bear Tooth summit—Ed]. Approach from the Root Can...
Araca and Choquetango Groups, Quimsa Cruz. This expedition of Germans was led by Hermann Wolf and composed of Rudi Bülter, Georg Fichtner, Christian Griesshammer, Peter Hacker, Karl-Heinz Hetz, Widukind Langenmaier, Michael Lentrodt, Michael Mager...
Miar Peak Attempt. A scientific-mountaineering expedition led by Dr. Franco Secchieri and assisted by Marino Lena failed to climb Miar Peak (6824 meters, 22,390 feet) because of the impossibility of ascending the Miar Glacier. They did make the fi...
Cerro Ventanani, Ruta de Los Amigos, New Route and Cerro Sancayuni, West Face Hanging Glacier Route, First Solo Ascent. On July 8 and 9, I established one new route and made a first solo ascent in the Linco Valley of the Cordillera Real. The Linco...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On 22 February Franklin Lankford (20) started out at about 1:00 p.m. to make a solo winter climb of the Third Flatiron. In good weather the standard route is a fourth class friction climb on a 45 degree sandstone slab som...