Our expedition, consisting of Swiss Xaver Bongard, Ueli Bühler and François Studiman and American photographer Ace Kvale and me, arrived in Pakistan on June 10. On June 24, after a three-day trek from Askole, we made our Base Camp near the mouth o...
Initial Findings of Field Research in the Grinnell Glacier, Everett Mountains Area of Southern Baffin Island, July and August 1981. Field work was conducted in the fiord area fronting Grinnell Glacier and along the lower Oogah River valley in the ...
1951-20092010GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic82...
An Optimistic PlanA series of new routes in Tibet, in preparation for climbing Gyachung Kang, ends when Mike Bearzi slips during the descent from the north face of Ngozumpa Kang II.Bruce Miller“Not a good place to be a yak,” said Mike, accurately ...
Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), central summit, Secret of Thin Ice. Two Slovak mountaineers, Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal, climbed a new route to an unclimbed peak in the massif of Pt. 5,930m. This peak is situated on the other site of the main r...
Ascents in the Purcell RangeEaton Cromwell and J. Monroe ThoringtonWHEN David Thompson, geographer of the North-West Com- pany, crossed the Rocky Mountains by Howse Pass, and reached Lake Windermere in the summer of 1807, the news of Trafalgar ha...
The Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC’s membership totaled 518 at year-end 2001. Much of the club’s volunteer administrative effort went into reviewing and updating club policies and guidelines, and considering various risk management issues. ...
A Night on Rainier. The first post-war ascent of Mt. Rainier was made on 31 May 1946 by M. M. Miller, Dee Molenaar and C. M. Molenaar, as a “conditioning climb” for their activities on Mt. St. Elias in June and July. The trio made the ascent on th...
Item Peak, North Face, New Route. On the first Saturday of April, after driving down the Richardson Highway, Shad O’Neel and I skied up Michael Creek. We camped at the base of the Jarvis Glacier/Michael Creek Pass. The next day, we got up early an...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Longs Peak, The DiamondWhile leading the second pitch of the so-called “Casual” route on The Diamond face of the east face of Longs Peak, Milton Strickler (30) fell from a point approximately 30 feet above and 30...
Patterson Bluffs, South Face, Sunset Buttress. This 1000-foot-plus cliff is just west of Balch Camp Flake facing south above Balch Camp in Sierra National Forest. In the spring Paul Martzen and I completed a nine-pitch route near the west end of t...
Utah, Wasatch Range, North Ridge of Dry Canyon. A group of three boys, ages 16, 16, and 13, were hiking on the north ridge of Dry Canyon near Logan. They had ascended the ridge, and Ronald James (16), was standing on a rock when he lost his footin...
Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route on the North Pillar. The route is reportedly complicated to describe, and a report was unavailable at pres...
LATE START, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, STRANDEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount IndefatigableOn September 14, two women (28 and 36), from Canmore spent the night on a cliff ledge after darkness forced them to interrupt their climb of the...
Giri-Giri Boys Kazuaki Amano (leader), Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato established two new routes in the Ruth Gorge. On April 18-19 they climbed the Optimist (950m, 22 pitches, AK Grade 4, 5.9R M6), on the west face of Peak 7,400'. On April 25-26 ...
Baruntse. I joined the German Alpine Club expedition led by Hermann Tauber, which climbed Baruntse by the southeast ridge. On November 1 South Tiroleans Tauber, Hansjörg Beikirchner, Robert Gasser, German Gerwald Wittmann and Sherpas Nawang Tenzin...
FAILURE TO TEST HOLD–HAND-HOLD CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Petzoldt RidgeOn July 20, Ben Wessler (20) was leading the pitch above the Window on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand Teton. He placed a piece of ...
South Patagonia Ice Cap, Traverse Attempt. From December 5, 1998-January 5, 1999, Karl Feaux, Rob Weber, Bart Matthews and Kyle Bohnenstiehl (leader), attempted a partial traverse of the South Patagonia Ice Cap. This remote area, also known as the...
Everest Attempts. The “expedition” organized by Hanns Schell was actually a group of teams. It included the American Snowbird Expedition as well as Steve Boyer and Murray Rice whose efforts are given above. In all there were 5 Austrians, 5 Germans...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Chair PeakOn August 6, 1984, Michael Sherman (17) and Nathaniel Burgess (17) were attempting an ascent of Chair Peak by the standard route. About 1300, Sherman slipped o...