IMPROPER FOOTWEAR—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett’s Peak. Elizabeth Wilson (23) and Gary Neptune had completed a technical climb of Hallett Peak (Jackson-Johnson route) and had successfully descended back to the base of the route f...
Climate Related Landscapes in World Mountains Criteria and Map. Will F. Thompson. “Annals of Geomorphology,” Gebrüder Bornraeger, Berlin/ Stuttgart, 1990. 92 pages, 61 photographs, 1 map, 1 table. Price $50.00 (approximate dollar-conversion value)...
Augusta and Logan Twin PackDon Serl, Alpine Club of CanadaWHERE I COME FROM, you’ve climbed a mountain when you can spit off the far side. Also, where I come from, Mount Logan is the biggest mountain there is, with a south face that is absolutely ...
Aguja Poincenot, Whillans Route. On March 1, 1997, Tom Douglas, Todd Hoffman, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the Whillans route on Poincenot. We left our snow cave at the Paso Superior at 4 a.m., and were at the base of the climb by around 7 a.m....
Yosemite: Haifa Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing. Alexander Huber (author) and Heinz Zak (photographer). Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press, 2003. 176 pages. Hardcover. $45.00.Heinz Zak’s photos caught me first. He is quite simply the best c...
Southern Sierra Rock Climbing, Needles. Sally Moser, Greg Vernon, Patrick Paul. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1992. 230 pages, 118 photos, 69 drawings. $18.00.It was with mixed feelings that I first opened the new guidebook to the Needles. Alth...
Reaching the summit of Yangmolong was the accumulation of three years’ effort. In 2009 we attempted the south side, but unseasonably warm conditions made climbing unsafe. Rocks and ice raining down on the party from the summit ridge forced a...
Mt. McKinley, South and North Peaks, 1932A. D. LindleyA LTHOUGH a first ascent is quite properly regarded as a supreme prize for the climber, a mountain often possesses such a historical background and such an imposing stature as to make it a wort...
A large, out-of-the-ordinary storm struck Utah on January 25. It snowed heavily along the Wasatch Front until noon and then switched to a mixture of heavy rain and snow, and later in the afternoon went back to snowing. Ice climbers were on the ice...
Rocky Mountain National Park, Various Ascents. Tricky to describe what started it, but the 1998 summer season in RMNP saw a frenzy of new route activity the likes of which haven’t been seen for years. For those involved, it meant a mad time of plo...
Yala, west-southwest ridge, attempt. From October 20 to November 1 the GORE-AAIC First Ascents team attempted a new route on the west-southwest ridge of Yala (a.k.a. Yala Xeushan, Zhara, Ja-ra, or Haizi Shan, the King of Mountains, 5,833m). Our ex...
THOMAS RIGGS1873-1945Thomas Riggs, an honorary member of the Club, was born in Ilchester, Md., October 17, 1873, and died in nearby Washington in January, 1945, but during his more than three-score years and ten he spent much of his time thousands...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved.1951-601959-601961U.S.CAN.U.S.CAN.TerrainRock 2611332Snow173121810River 1000Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 1906229Descent2147242Unknown30051Imm...
A Code to Climb ByLeading climbers gather in Tyrolia to shape the ethical foundation of their sport.Eliza MoranIn September, 2002, more than 100 representatives of mountaineering federations and elite climbers from around the world arrived in Inns...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Kings Canyon National Park, North DomeIn mid-June, we—Brandon Thau (23), Matthew Pollard (24), and Jennifer Pollard (25)—completed a new route up North Dome, topping out around 4:00 p.m. The climb had involved ...
Peak 8,530', North Face, First Ascent. In July, after bushwhacking up the drainage for a day and a half, Carl Oswald and Karen Hilton ascended the unclimbed north face of Peak 8,530' via 3,500 feet of alpine ice up to 70 degrees. After summiting, ...
Dragon’s Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), east ridge attempt; Peak 5,138m, north face attempt; logistical notes. Jon Otto, China’s greatest first ascensionist, tipped me off about the potential of the Bipeng Valley. My initial foray into the valley was...
Manaslu, East-Northeast Face, Ascent and Tragedy. We (Sergio Martini, Leader; Renzo Benedetti, Luca Campagna, First Group; Abele Blanc, Marco Camandona, Paolo Obert, Adriano Favre, Claudio Rosset, Second Group) left on foot from Gorka on September...
The Desert, various activity. Many new routes were established in the Moab area by Joe Slansky, and in the Castle Valley area by Greg Child and partners.They were wall climbs under 400' in height. Further information is available at www.climbingmo...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyMark Hesse (31) and John Hesse (29) of the Hesse Amputee expedition were flown into Kahiltna Base Camp on April 29, 1982. John had no right leg and Mark’s plan was to assist his brother up the ...