Mount Silliman, Sequoia National Park. In June 1981, Guy McClure and I did two new routes on the west ridge of Mount Silliman. From 10,000 feet, a short way below Silliman Lake, the southern face of this ridge rises in a long series of steep grani...

AMS—NO INCIDENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressKim Jae Suk and Park Jae Il (24) of the Korean Palgong Kyung Ju party ascended the Messner Couloir on May 28. Il became ill with Acute Mountain Sickness over half way up the route, requiring eigh...

Northern Sikkim, Kangchengyao (6,889m), ascent from north. It is reported that a 14-member team from the Black Cat Division of the Indian Army made a rare ascent of this high peak in northern Sikkim. While the south side of this mountain is very f...

OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount SnowdomeJ.R. (28) hitchhiked to the Columbia Icefields on February 20, and hiked to the base of the difficult and hazardo...

One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via the south face to the east ridge. Humar selected the far eastern end of the face because there are not as many falling stones as el...

Ascent of Guillaumet, Normal Route. On February 27, 1997, Tom Douglas, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the normal route on Guillamet (in the Fitz Roy massif). We left the Paso Superior at 9 a.m. and hiked through two feet of new snow to the base. ...

Western Colorado, Various Ascents. On August 4, Jesse Harvey, Pat Goodman and I made the first ascent of a yummy 350-foot flake of rotten sandstone, limestone and shale that we dubbed Putterman’s Flake. It sits a couple miles north of (the Cameo) ...

Iowa Mountaineers. The Iowa Mountaineers, as usual, had an active year in 1992. Membership has grown to 5100 members from 38 states. Over 4200 people participated in the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps or foreign expeditions.The c...

Triangle Peak, The Prism, Previously Unreported. On October 13, 1997, Matt Porter and I hiked nine miles up the South Fork of Eagle River to the north face of Triangle Peak (5,450'). Our intended line was 1,000 feet of water ice culminating in a p...

Picos Oriental and Ojeda, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Todd Swain, Thomas (“Tad”) Welch and I visited the northern side of the range in January 1984. Contrary to the experiences reported by several climbing parties in recent years, we found no ob...

Yalaxianbo (6,635m), first ascent. The Yamagata Mountaineering Federation (northern Japan) made the first ascent of Yalaxianbo, near the border with Bhutan, to commemorate its 50th anniversary in 2007. This peak is located at 28°45'N, 91°50'E, 135...

Climbs and Traverses in the Mount Waddington Area, Canadian Coast Range. In the 4½ days from July 26 thru 30, Peter Croft, Greg Foweraker, and I completed the first traverse of the culmination of the Coast Mountains, the Waddington Range. Starting...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Hallett PeakOn June 9, 1982, Matthew Slater (19) and Jeffrey Cristol (18) were climbing Hallett Chimney (about 225 meters of mixed ice and rock) on Hallett Peak. They were about one lead f...

Colqiie Cruz, Cordillera Vilcanota. An Italian expedition composed of Italo Bazzini, Mario Giacomelli, Livio Lanari and Roberto Manni climbed Colque Cruz, reaching the summit (6104 meters, 20,026 feet) on July 29. They had hoped to climb a direct ...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 24 June John Freitag (25), Mike Petrilak, Steffie Petrilak, and Joan Oosterwyk were descending Cloudveil Dome by the east ridge following a successful ascent by the same route. It was early afternoon and the ...

Gasherbrum IV Tragedy. A Japanese expedition failed to climb Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters, 26,000 feet) by its west face. On July 7 all five members were carrying loads from Camp I to Camp II. At 20,000 feet a huge sérac collapsed above them. Shiget...

Jirishanca, East Face, Attempt. On July 7, Aritza Monasterio (Peru), Marjan Kovac and Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) made an attempt to climb a new route on the east face of Jirishanca. They approached the glacier between Yerupaja Chico and started on a ...

FAILURE OF RAPPEL ANCHOR, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount WhyteOn August 2,1986, J.B. (52) and M.O. (35), both experienced climbers, were descending the northwest ridge of Mount Whyte. Around 1530, when they were about 100 me...

Annapurna, Winter Attempt. A four-man Japanese team led by Tadao Sug- imoto attempted the north face of Annapurna. They set up Base Camp and Camps I, II and III at 13,950, 16,075, 17,725 and 20,000 feet on November 27, December 1, 3 and 10 respect...

Day Needle. On June 16, Cameron Bums and I climbed an all-free variation of the Beckey-Reese route on Day Needle. (IV, 5.10b). The crux came in the second to last pitch, which followed left-angling cracks up steep rock that offered knobby face-cli...