Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Wastl Wörgötter, Dr. Andreas Paul, Ingeborg Aufschnaiter, Harald Benzl, Johann Pree, Josef Inhöger, Martin Hornegger, Johann-Georg Bachmair, and me as leader, Germans Dr. Karl W...
Attempt on Queen Mary; other St. Elias Peaks. As seasonal employees of the Icefield Ranges Research Project, Alex Bittenbender, Don Stockard and I dug snow-sample pits in record time to allow time-off for climbing. When Peter Dodds, Will Harrison ...
Chiring We (6,599m), second ascent. Chiring We is situated at the head of the Kalabaland glacier and is not frequently visited by mountaineers. The first ascent was achieved in 1979 by a team from Mumbai under the leadership of Harish Kapadia. The...
Torres del Paine National Park, Rules and Regulations. Officially, a special foreigners-only climbing fee of $100 must be paid at the administration office when one enters Torres del Paine National Park. However, we would warn our readers that str...
INTOXICATION – FALL ON ROCK, FREE SOLO CLIMBINGWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverIn early July about 11:45 a.m., Charles G. Fredricks Jr. (39) fell while free solo climbing Angel’s Arete (5.10) in the Bridge Buttress area. National Park...
Mount Skarland, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. Early in April, Ed Johann, Terry Simonitch, Price Zimmermann and I were flown onto the upper portion of the Hayes Glacier from Delta Junction. Our pilot, Mike Stone of Wilson Air Service, did an excellent...
Mount Logan Tragedy, Warbler Ridge. All six of us were setting up camp the evening of July 7 on a large and apparently secure comice at 14,000 feet on the south-southeast ridge of Logan, the next ridge east of Hummingbird Ridge. The entire ridge w...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE KNOWLEDGE OF ROUTE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn the evening of June 21, 1994, the Teton County Sheriff’s Communications Center forwarded a 911 call to Ranger Renny Jackson at his local residence. The call ...
Huascarán. Our group made ascents of Huascarán by the Garganta route as follows: on August 21 José Luis Sesma, José Errasti and I; on August 22 Maite Bacaicoa and Angel Rosen; on August 23 José Ignacio Artarez, Elías Ruis de Alegría, the Peruvian ...
Rocky Mountain National Park, Enchainment. In August, Mike Pennings and I left the Longs Peak parking lot at 3 a.m. and climbed Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10) on the Diamond. We then dropped over the west side of Longs and soloed the North Ridge of ...
Mount Logan Map, Research and Reference Folio. G. Holds worth and B. Sawyer. Arctic Institute of North America, 2500 University Drive NW, Calgary AB T2N 1N4, Canada, 1993. Two sheets 50cm x 66cm, printed in color on four sides of poster-grade pape...
East Fuller Butte, Fear of Flying. In September John Stoddard and I climbed this route between the Southeast Face and the Songs to a Morning Star routes. The route climbs the 350-foot-high thin crack just to the left of the Songs route. A small le...
Longs Peak, Solo Winter Ascent of the East Face. From January 13 to 17, 1983 I made the first solo winter ascent of the Lower East Face-Diamond combination on Longs Peak. On the Lower East Face I climbed the Gray Pillar (IV, 5.9, A4) up to Broadwa...
Boom Mountain, North Face. Joe Farrand and I started above the east end of Boom Lake, on easy quartzite just left of a deep gully. After a few hundred feet we took to the gully bed, until it steepened to a wet overhanging corner. A long traverse r...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) Attempt. Our team on Hidden Peak included Georgie Powers, Carlos Buhler, Mark Newcomb, Marc Appling, Greg Collins and me. The trek to Base Camp started in Dassu and went smoothly. We reached Base Camp on August 4. After ...
Langtang Himal. A British expedition visited the Langtang Himal for botanical and mountaineering reasons. Led by Viscount Glentworth, they were joined at least for some of the time by Alfred Gregory and Colonel Charles Wylie. They attempted severa...
Colorado, Conundrum Creek Valley. On September 8, Jonathan Hough, David Church, Jon Swanson, Robert Farley, and Susan Greene (19) had attempted Castle Peak (14,259 ft.). They were turned back at 13,800 by severe winds and approaching thunderstorms...
Trekant Basin, Staunings Alps, Northeast Greenland. Bruno Friedrich, Christoph Schwarz, Toni Mayer and I as leader were in the basin of the Trekant Glacier, east of Alpefjord in the Staunings Alps, from July 28 to August 18. Base Camp was on the t...
Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big Chief Mountain is located in the seldom-visited Summit Chief Valley in the North Central Cascades. The Summit Chief Valley is...
PULMONARY EDEMAAlaska, Mt. McKinley, West ButtressWhile the incident with Andrews was unfolding at 13,500 feet, there was another incident developing at high camp—17,200 feet. The Black Ice Expedition, consisting of Sacha Friedlin (23) and Marie C...